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Messages - NoDak

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread
« on: Today at 02:27:50 PM »
Did a bunch of shooting at the range today. Here is the first one with a Taurus 94, 22 revolver at 17,000 FPS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5KFmQTJX6E

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Software Dev / Re: Improving the Jog Wheel, ideas.
« on: October 12, 2017, 09:56:06 AM »
Stopped for the moment while on the road.

Some great input from you two. Though I disagree with the usefulness of frame by frame jogging, I just don't see myself using it, I see that I was wrong about it not bring important to people. I should rethink some of the presets I suggest to include frame by frame jogging and do some math to see what it would do at different frame rates.

I'll have to type up my revised thoughts in more detail when at home and I may even bust out my MSPaint skills to take the input thus far and get a rough design of what the jog screen would look like. Feel free to come up with your own if anyone wants to.

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Software Dev / Re: Improving the Jog Wheel, ideas.
« on: October 12, 2017, 05:22:35 AM »
1. I do not agree, I like to be able to see the video frame by frame for the critical moments before saving it in case something is wrong and I need to re-shoot the video.

2. I totally agree, push and releasing is the way to go IMHO. If possible with more than 2 frame-rates (3 or 4 would be a good balance I think). I really like the idea of fractions of the buffer in addition to one frame per detent.

Instead of presets for the whole thing I guess it would be better to be able to chose a preset for each click on the jog wheel; less presets needed, more customizable and maybe no need for an advanced mode because we can already do advanced things with this simple UI.

1. Fantastic. Someone who likes frame by frame on the jog wheel. Input from people like you will be valuable for us to go back and forth and come to a good solution. Perhaps there can be some presets with a mix of fractions and frames. Such would be for sure doable in the advanced settings.

2. I think pretty much everyone will agree with this one.

I think presets with only 2 values would be liked, though we would need to actually test this in the field to see if I am right or wrong.

I really believe there needs to be a solid set of presets like there are in the "Record Settings" page for people who just want to turn the camera on and start shooting video. Though you have made me rethink the need for an "Advanced settings" menu. Like the "Record Settings" page, we should be able to fit both on the same page.

Thank you so much for your feedback.

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Software Dev / Improving the Jog Wheel, ideas.
« on: October 11, 2017, 09:33:20 PM »
Like an excited child reading over the specs of the latest gaming console, I poured over the manual for the Chronos well before I got mine. I went over the section on how the job wheel worked and it sounded perfectly reasonable to me.

"Moves playback 1 frame per detent (rotational click). Press and hold dial clicked in to move fast (40 frames per detent) "

I actually get it and do a recording session in my driveway with me chucking glass jars against pavement. (I looked like a crazy person to anyone watching me.) The jog wheel is quickly abandoned in favor of the on-screen slider.

As someone who has worked with designing products at my work I COMPLETELY understand what happened. An idea that sounded perfectly reasonable in the design phase turns out to not work well in practice. Nothing wrong with that, we're all human.

The problem is NOT the jog wheel itself. I like it's placement and feel. The problem is how it is setup in software.

1. One frame per click is too-fine. Most people only care about getting close enough to the section of the frame buffer they need to save. You want to have handles on your video anyway, so you will save a little bit before the area of interest and a little bit afterwards, 5-10 seconds is what most people I have seen recommend. If people need to go over video frame by frame they will typically do this later when on a PC with a large monitor.

2. Holding the jog wheel down while turning is impractical. If this was a jog wheel on a desk or control panel there would be no problem, but this is a camera on a tripod or handheld.

Since the problem is in software, we just have to come up with a new convention with choices for the user.

HOWEVER, we need to be VERY careful about giving the user choice. Choice CAN be good, but only up to a point.

Let me use an example that the designers of the Chronos did VERY well. On the "Record Settings" page, we can set the exact resolution down to the pixel, adjust the offset, set the specific frame rate, and exposure. OR, we can just select the drop down and pick from a list of presets that cover 95% of use cases. VERY good design. You make it easy for the 95% who actively do not want to have to bother with fine tuning their camera while allowing the people who want to tweak every last setting to get things exactly how they want it.

So, we need to do the same here. Have a relatively few pre-made options for the jog wheel that 95% of users will be fine with while allowing the people who just HAVE to customize everything to do their thing.

First, the menu to adjust the jog wheel would be in the "Util" page . There is plenty of space there to put a button titled "Jog Wheel".

I personally think push and hold needs to be abandoned, instead pushing and releasing the jog wheel cycles through the jog rates.

Presets would be in a drop down menu like the frame rates on the "Record Settings" page. I spent quite a bit of time on a long drive home from a job site mentally thinking through these. Most people just want to get the mark in and mark out close enough to the interesting bits, save, and move on to the next shot. They want a hatchet, not a scalpel. They will edit the video down to the specific frame when they have the video on their computer.

I see the attraction of jog rates based on frames, but if you are swapping between frame rates on a shoot, like I will, jog rates based on frames for one frame rate will be too big or too small on another frame rate. Meaning you will want to switch jog rates when you switch frame rates. Too much work, not user friendly. Instead, jog rates perhaps should by default be defined by fractions of the frame buffer per rotational click. Pressing the jog wheel would advance the jog rate to the next fastest rate. If already at the fastest rate it would cycle back to the slowest rate. Going with fractions of the frame buffer means jogging will be consistent between frame rates.

I have some ideas for presets

1/8 Frame Buffer, 1/32 Frame Buffer
1/16 Frame Buffer, 1/64 Frame Buffer
1/16 Frame Buffer, 1/128 Frame Buffer
1/32 Frame Buffer, 1/256 Frame Buffer
1/8 Frame Buffer, 1/32 Frame Buffer, 1/128 Frame Buffer
1/8 Frame Buffer, 1/64 Frame Buffer, 1/512 Frame Buffer
1/16 Frame Buffer, 1/128 Frame Buffer, 1/512 Frame Buffer
1/32 Frame Buffer, 1/256 Frame Buffer, 1/2048 Frame Buffer

These presets will allow the user to quickly locate the "Mark In" that they want and add a handle by simply going back a click or two. Then they cycle back to the "coarse" setting, locate the "Mark Out" location, and add a handle. Then they save and move on to the next shot.

Advanced settings menu would open an additional window for the people who want to adjust EVERYTHING. I think up to 5 jog rates would be enough. If they want to jog based on a specific number of frames they can do that or go by fraction of the frame buffer. There would be drop downs on each jog rate that would define the rate by frame or fraction of the frame buffer. Then enter a numerical value. Each jog rate would have a "NA" option, so if someone wants only 2-4 jog rates they can easily set that. Perhaps have an option to name the jog rates and save them.

This setup lets the users who just want to shoot high speed video have a selection of useful presets to use without being overwhelming. These presets will probably be good for 95% of users. For that 5%, they just go into the advanced menu and make their own jog rates.

Please let me know your feedback on this. Hopefully we can go back and forth and discuss various ideas. Perhaps someone has an even better idea.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread
« on: October 04, 2017, 07:21:17 PM »
We film usually couple videos per week with the Chronos but I really like this video that we filmed couple days ago

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUYSOFStJ9c

We filled up some "balloons" with non newtonian fluid and shot them with the crossbow. I think I used something like 3000 fps on most of the shots.
Wow, fantastic video. You can see where the NNF goes from behaving like a solid back to behaving like a liquid, going from sharp edges to rounded fluid shapes.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: 12 Volt power adapter.
« on: October 01, 2017, 12:56:11 PM »
I got the power adapter I linked in my original post and I can confirm that it works great with the Chronos. A nice unit with plenty of cord.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk lighting
« on: October 01, 2017, 01:21:39 AM »
Anyone found a good cheap 110v AC constant current driver? The killer expensive part is the 110V to 12 or 24 V PSU.  :-\

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk lighting
« on: September 27, 2017, 10:29:36 PM »
Ah, the eBay ones don't have screw terminals.

In the long run it may be better to buy the ones you link with screw terminals. Makes calibration and such easy, as does replacing modules should the need arise.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk lighting
« on: September 27, 2017, 07:34:59 PM »
The boards I bought from Amazon, similar to sam's, have a constant voltage dial and a peak current dial. So yes, constant output voltage regardless of input.

Nice, good to have options.

I see that you solder the driver directly to the module. (Not a problem, I can solder.) How do you go about calibrating them? Do you calibrate the voltage before you connect anything, then connect it to the module with alligator clips, calibrate the amperage with a multi-meter, solder it all down, then Loc-tite the screws in place? Or is there another way?

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk lighting
« on: September 27, 2017, 06:25:22 PM »
Inspired by tesla500, I rigged up lights with the Chanzon 100W led modules ( here now, but this link moves around...).

I drive each of them with one of these constant current boost converters each.  This is probably overkill, but these are so cheap...  I mount the LEDs to the front of a cpu water cooling block, and the drivers to the back.  Right now I'm driving 3x100W LEDs, a water pump, and fan for the radiator with a 500W ATX power supply. 

Overall, this is ~25k lumens for ~$100.  It stays plenty cool, and works well, but I think there's lots of room for improvement.  And of course, now that my camera has arrived, it doesn't seem bright enough any more!

Hmmmmmmmmm. I wonder if we still have that crapload of old Socket 478 heatsinks at work. :D I'm sure the boss would be okay with me getting rid of them.

Okay, so one heat-sink per module.

I use the drivers that you linked.

I found a US-ish seller of those modules on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-watts-High-Power-SMD-LED-Chip-Lamp-Beads-White-Red-Blue-Green-RGB-UV-Light-/122046201688?var=&hash=item1c6a853f58:m:mBExdbhCP8WUQFmi4PpsUQw

Should I go with White or Cool white? 6,000k-6,500k vs 10,000k-15,000k? Yea it's $20 more than the aliexpress one, buuuuuut I'll prefer to get a US reseller.

Power supply, hmmmm. We have a bunch of old 24 VAC CCTV power supplies. Things are moving to PoE IP cameras, so we probably won't ever use them. I think they are 8 amps at 24 volts. Would need to add a bridge rectifier for sure.

Would I need to add a capacitor for the ripple this would create or do I need to not be a cheap-ass and get a proper switching PSU?

24 volt would probably be better than 12v to reduce the amperage required in the wiring.

I could just use the car battery I have for starting my generator and only switch on all the LEDs when I am about to trigger the camera. :-\

Do those drivers output the same voltage regardless of input voltage? Or do I need to have it always powered by 12v or 24v? I am guessing it's one or the other.

80,000 Lumens and probably blowing breakers.  ;D Even better, since it will be one module per heat-sink means that I can aim and mount them individually

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Thanks Krontech
« on: September 25, 2017, 04:41:25 PM »
Seriously Awesome camera at a great price. You guys did good A+. Now time to go shoot a piano with a Cannon. Video of that will be up soon.
How I read this in my mind: "What is so special about shooting a piano with a Canon? I mean they've put out some good cameras but I... Ohhhhhhhhh, a CANNON. :o "

As someone whose mother is a music teacher, please use one that is damaged beyond repair.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: 12 Volt power adapter.
« on: September 24, 2017, 09:54:56 PM »
OOOO, That is a nice unit there. That will be a good option for some.

My ghetto camper is already setup with cigarette lighter electrical, with ample extension cables and such available to borrow, so I'll still be going with the adapter I found.

At my work, I have gotten a number of UPS units, some quite nice, that are perfectly good after a battery swap. Most nowadays are black start capable. Running battery DC through an inverter, only to step it back down to DC, makes me cringe when I think about conversion losses. Buuuuuut, if you got it for free/low cost and are okay with carting it about, I'm sure we will see some people doing that too.

Hopefully other people, who have their own solutions, will chime in. Give people as many options as possible for their own particular needs.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread
« on: September 24, 2017, 08:16:59 PM »
My Auto5 Shotgun at 1000 fps:
https://youtu.be/CVil8Y74CDE
Oh nice. Long-recoil actions are always fun to see in high-speed.

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Chronos User Discussion / 12 Volt power adapter.
« on: September 24, 2017, 08:00:26 PM »
Well my order has moved to the "Processing" phase and I am now thinking more and more about accessories I will need.

One thing that I foresee is needing an external battery. I plan on not relying on the internal battery except to just keep the camera powered on when moving things about.

I know that some people have used an inverter plugged into their car and ran an extension cord to the camera. While that works in many situations, there are going to be plenty of times this is not practical.

The obvious solution, since the Chronos uses a standard 5.5/2.5mm power plug, is to find and buy an appropriate laptop car power supply. Then you can use whatever 12 volt battery you have available by connecting a car plug to the battery. (In my case, a Power Wheels 12v battery I got NIB at a garage sale for $5.)

Of course, the problem is that most laptop car chargers only give make and model of laptop. They don't explicitly state power plug size. I did some research and I think I have found something at a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/CHARGER-Asus-Vivobook-Transformer-Pa-1650-01-Adp-65jh/dp/B004NVT7BK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1506301995&sr=8-8

I have searched the models listed and everything I find says this a 5.5/2.5mm plug. The right-angle tip was something I specifically wanted, as I think most people will want, to reduce strain on the connector. 65 watts, plenty of power.

Then to attach it to whatever 12v battery you have, you just use one of these alligator clip thingies. (Don't want to assume that everyone has or has used one, so figure I better link to a good one.)

https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B00065L2D8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506305466&sr=8-1

I'll toss one of these into my Amazon cart for the next order I make from them. I will report in once I have my camera so people can be absolutely sure that this works.

Please let me know if anyone sees any problems. I figure I can't be the only person interested in something like this.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: What will the HDMI output resolution be?
« on: September 23, 2017, 10:45:11 PM »
If I may piggyback off your question.

How much +5v current will be available on Pin 18 of the HDMI connector?

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