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Messages - Nikon1

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1
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk LENSES!
« on: February 02, 2019, 08:08:43 AM »
I also have that same Lens, the Fujinon 2,7mm 1.8. Mine Is also without the Aperture, because that one seemd to expensive back when i bought it.
It really is a great Lens and i always keep it in my C-Mount Prime Lens-Set when i Need an Crazy wide FOV Lens.
Got mine for somewhere Between 120 to 180€ about two Years ago. Cant remember the price Exactly.
Cant quite agree on it beeing a Soft Lens, used it on my Nikon J5, which has an 1" Sensor and 20 Megapixel and, well it is a bit soft towards the corners, but overall it can produce very sharp Images, even at such high Resolution. Could Upload Samples, if interrested, just dont have any high-Quality samples at the Moment because i use this Lens VERY rarely.
If you dont get sharp images from this Lens, check if your Focus is actually Correct, since this Lens Has somewhat of a shallow Depth of Field for beeing that wide.
I focus mine simply by unscrewing it from The C-Mount, works nice For me, since i mostly shoot handheld with it. If you plan on using it on an Tripod or alike, you are Quite Limited to whereever your Focus is, or need some percise C-Mount Rings to set The Focus Correctly. If you use The "just unscrew the Thing from the Mount"-focusing-Method, you also have an Pretty Crazy Fisheye-Macro-Lens (could produce very interresing Results with this!) which could focus up to stuff Touching the Front Lens Element and even beyond that... Just dont Drop your Lens if it comes Loose from the Unscrewing...
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I also Wanted and Needed a VERY WIDE Lens (That covers my Nikon´s J5 Full 1" Sensor while not beeing fisheye) for A long time, and finaly found something, that i am Happy with.
My Azure 6,5mm f/1.4 combined with an Rehoused old German Wide-Converter, togehter producing an 4,55mm f/1.4 Non-Fisheye-Lens, covering an full 1" Sensor (15,8mm Image Circle)!
Bevore i Got /Built this, i Tried a lot of other Lenses just naming a few here:
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- 8mm 1.4 Kowa for 1". Amazing Lens, super Sharp, extremely well built, Love this Lens, most used Lens of my very wide ones, but sometimes just not wide enough.
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-6,5mm 1.8? TV Lens (not quite Sure anymore, what the Exact numbers Where). Got that one for 30€ on ebay, not very sharp and also produces somewhat lame Looking images, Cracked the Front Element while Trying To Manufacture a mount for an 0,7x Wide-Angle Converter. Gave it to nineff, because i allready orderd the Avenir back then. For around 30€ good value for the money, but i wasnt toooo happy about sharpness...
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-6,7-13mm 1Nikkor Lens. Very Sharp Lens, BTW, some handsome Person could use This Lens on an Chronos or even Rehouse it. (if you want to do this, keep in mind, it is a Focus-By wire only! Lens and hasnt even an aperture dial or something, can be done with heavy Modification and/ or some workarounds, but not very fun thing to do) I Built an adapter-Clamp for my 0,7x Wide-Converter, and that worked well, but it bothered me that this lens was just an f/3,5-5,6 and therefore it was only useable in Daylight...
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2,7mm 1.8 Fujinon. See above
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4,2mm 1.6 Pentax. Sharp enough lens, very wide, not as Wide as the Fujinon, but stil impressive for such a small Lens. but also Fisheye. Also got this one for 30 to 40€ incl. Shipping, good Value For this price. Will make a Circular image and should even on the chronos produce images with Black corners.
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And why did i finaly buy the Azure 6,5mm 1.4, and not the Kowa 6mm 1.8 or one of those old Tegea 5,9mm C-mount- Cinr Lenses and the Like?
Well, the Azure goes for around 200 used and a bit more new (maybe up to 300 including shipping), is a half stop faster than the Kowa, has an Filter Thread, on which a can Mount an Wide-Angle Converter, while th Kowa 6mm only has that Huge, Sticking out, Front Element, With which i had to worry all day about not getting it damaged, and no easy way of attatching an Wide-Converter. Also, the Kowa is a Good bit Bigger, heavier and costs about three times that what the Azure Will cost you. Kowa 6mm 1.8: New around 700, not including shipping and up to 600 used.
Those Tegea and alike are mostly overpriced and they are huge Heavy beasts of Lenses... Havent used one yet, but heard, that those also should not be the Sharpest Lenses ever made. Those Could be worth the money, if you absolutely need or want That Cinematic Look, but i doubt that.
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So i bought the Azure 6,5mm 1.4.
This lens is Crazy Sharp, has quite some Contrast to it and an Punchy Look (very clean, not as bold of an contrasty and vibrant Look as the Kowa 8mm 1.4 has). Also, it is super small and has high overall image Quality, Low distortion, minimal Vignetting an is sharp up to the corners and covers an full Nikon 1 J5 1" Sensor without problems. I think this is the best Value for Money and also about as wide as you can get your Lens, bevore you get massive Vignetting, crazy big, heavy and Expensive Lensdesigns or Fisheye-Lenses (At least thats the case for 1" Sensors. Not sure about the bit smaller 2/3" Sensor of the Chronos, there may be an even Wider affordable Option available for that....). Somehow, this Lens Reminds me A LOT of the Cine-Nikkor 6,5mm 1,4 for 16mm Film... not just the Specs, also the Size and the Design of the Lens Body...and its Performance... Havent yet got an 6,5mm Cine-Nikkor in my hands to compare it to (Since those are Crazy rare Lenses and very expensive), but it could be a Plain Copy / Remake of the Cine Nikkor...?
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As said, i paired this Azure 6,5mm 1.4 with an 0,7x wide-Converter in an Self Built New housing, togehter making it to about an 4,55mm 1.4 for 1", Non Fisheye.
It is sharp, but mostly in the Center. Looses some Sharpness towards the edges and also has some visible Distortion ( Still WAY better Than any Fisheye-Lens).
Since the Converter itself is also very small, the whole thing is rather compact and Light. Certainly not as good as an Good Brand Full-Frame Rectlinear Super-Ultra-Wide-Lens but also a lot smaller, Faster (f 1.4) and cheaper.
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For Samples, just ask, im a bit to Lazy to do a ton of Images here, without knowing if anyone is actually interrested in it.

2
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Workflow - Time
« on: January 28, 2019, 09:54:52 AM »

Lenses:  I already have a rather significant inventory of quality SLR/DSLR lenses - from older, manual Nikon primes, macros, & zooms (18mm f2.8 up to 1000mm) to newer Canon EF & EF L primes and zooms (down to f1.4) as well as a handful of f2.8 Minolta primes and zooms.  There are many adapter options already available for using these lenses (with a crop factor) on the Chronos.  I also have SD and HD Fuji & Canon 2/3" bayonet mount broadcast lenses.  And, I don't currently own any PL lenses.  I haven't read any discussions where success in adapting 2/3" and PL lenses to the Chronos has been achieved.  So, these are probably off the table as options.  Finally, I've seen some recommendations for C / CS mount lenses in other KronTalk forum threads and would likely expand my lens collection with some of these models whether or not my existing lenses will successfully adapt to the Chronos.  It's always nice to have a native fallback option in case my other lenses are needed elsewhere.

Lighting: I have plenty of lighting options including 18,000 watts of Tungsten, 1,000 watts of LED, and access to HMI fixtures.

At this point, what I probably need to do is find one of the Chronos cameras to borrow or rent that I can try out ... or see about an in-person demo.  I won't be able to attend NAB and visit the Kron Tech booth this year due to a prior commitment that week.  Worst case is that I table the decision until later.

Sigh... I would really like this to work.
Havent Read the whole thing in this thread, just read a bit here and there over the text, and had to write a reply just about your statement, that one could not mount 2/3" ENG- Glass on an Chronos....
Those 2/3" Lenses you have, are the perfect thing for the Chronos!
The Chronos has an 2/3" sensor, so you get the absolute Identical and Full Field of View (at Full Sensor Resolution, that is) as with your typical 2/3" Broadcast-Camera. Those Lenses Are ideal, since they provide Focal Length, which is Rare on FF or even s35-Glass (something like 12mm is an normal (50mm FF) Lens on the chronos...) and are Mostly Plenty Fast lenses for an quite Impressive Zoom-Range. And since The Chronos is basicaly an HD-Camera with an Full-Pixel Readout off of an RGB-Bayer Sensor, your Effective Resolution should be quite close to what those SD and HD Lenses Could provide in Detail and Sharpness!
I dont know about any Adapters specificaly for the Chrons Yet, but you can try to get Something like PL To C-Mount...
For those 2/3" mounts, im Not Quite Sure, if there Are adapters for CS-Mount...?
Its Mechanicaly possible and you got lot of space between camera and Lens for adapting.
I am 100% sure, those Lenses are possible and not too difficult to adapt to the Chronos!
For anything else Adapting is quite Straigth forward, for the most part, just buy C-Mount adapters, but if you dont find anyone/ anything else to mount these 2/3" Lenses on that Camera, then Contact me via PM, i will help you find a way, if you actualy are about to get an chronos. Really, Really want to see this.
Dont know, if it would make Sense for you, but some Good Normal or very Wide C-Mount Primes could be a nice and Helpfull addition to your collection of Lenses, especialy if you plan on using the Chronos regularly. Just dont buy overpriced and overhyped glass, there is plenty out there in this whole C-Mount-World.
Remember, that even your 18mm 2.8 will become something like an 70mm TELE Lens on an FF because of the rather small sensor. And that is, if you use full Resolution. If you want to go with even Higher Framerates and SD-Resolution for example, your effective Sensor Size will get even Smaller, thus your lenses will get even more Tele /longer. The Sensor Size of the Chronos is close to Standard 16mm Film-Camera Frame, when using its full Sensor/ full Resolution.
Those C-Mount Primes are also available in Very Fast Versions for most Focal Length, 1.4, f/1, and sometimes even Faster lenses are quite common. Zooms can be found as fast as f/1.2 and even f/1, so, if needed, this could be also nice.
For everything Tele you have a nice collection of Glass there which should be very useable and usefull on the Chronos!
If you really dont want to buy other Lenses, and you seem To have some Serious and complete kit there, think about geting a Speedbooster (like the Metabones 0,58x Canon to BMPCC) and adapt that to the Chronos. Would increase the effective sensor Size to something closer to s35mm Format and make those Lenses much more usefull.
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18k Tungsten is somewhat of an starting point, but depends on how big your Set is. If you want to know if you have enough light, take a Shot with an stills Camera at something like T/2 or close your Lens even more, and set the Camera to 1/3000s and Iso 160, that is about what you will see with the chronos when shooting 720pHD 1500fps (180° Shutter) while Trying to keep ImageQuality high. If you still get somewhat of an proper Exposure with those Settings on your Camera, your Lighting is Bright enough! If you still want to have more Depth of Field, you can try to stop your lens down even more, and see how far you could go bevore your image turns finaly Completely black :). If you are able to light your Set to get a proper exposure on some range of apertures on your Lens, or plan on shooting just wide open, you are ready for an highspeed-Camera :)
For Those LEDs and HMI´s: Just check if they will Flicker bevore relying on those! With these Big Tungsten Lights its mostly not a problem, but too small tungsten Lights will also produce Flicker. For LEDs and lot of other Lights, they sometimes tend to Flicker, if not meant to be used for Highspeed-Video!
But if you shoot 240fps there, its propably at least not the typical 50/ 60Hz Flicker....
Simlest check you could do: Put your Stills Camera on a Tripod and take a lot of stills (like at least more than 30) with the above mentioned Settings (most importantly 1/3000s or even Shorter, depending for what framerate you want to check flicker), then put them into AfterEffects (or whatever you be using over there), and cut them together like you would with stills for Stop motion. Play it back ---> See if the Lights Flicker...
If done Correctly, that should give you somewhat of an Preview/ Idea, if those Lights are Flickering. (only way to be sure is still to just test with an actual high-speed-Camera....).
And, while i think about it:
You could just shoot 240fps with 1/3000s and ISO 160 (Iso 160 is about as bright as The Lowest Gain-Setting on the Chronos)...Should give the Same Result.

3
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Mounting Camera to Microscope
« on: January 28, 2019, 08:45:25 AM »
Ok thank you for such a thorough response! it was very informative, I appreciate it.

 I think I will go with the fotodiox!
Just thought, it would be very interresting, not only for me, but for some other people also, to hear what you actually got for adapting your Microscope and how well it works for your use (that is, if you allready got it). Also about the Built-Quality of the Adapter.
Could be helpfull if i or anyone else wants to adapt some Nikon-F-Mount Lens (or other stuff with such mounts) to the Chronos at some point.

4
That sounds neat as heck! Do you recommend Final Cut to newbies like me, Nikon1? Keeping in mind that I'm willing to learn, just don't have a ton of time on my hands.
while you get the best looking results in Most situations with the Twixtor Plugin (Which i Use in After-Effects, but can be used in Premiere Pro and some other programs), FinalCut should be somewhat easier to use than something like After Effects. Software which is primarily meant to only Cut Footage and do some Basic editing/effects, like Final Cut and Premiere is propably the easiest to use for someone who just starts up and doesnt want to spend a ton of time with it.
But be warned, Both (all) of those have somewhat of a learning-curve to them! But once you figured out how the whole video-Editing-Think works, its not too difficult to swich between them, since most of those Programs have very similar functions, but the Buttons, User-Interface, and General Concept of The Software is sometimes a bit different. Which one you choose is for the Most part just personal preference for everyone. I for myself Like Adobe AfterEffects the Best and use it for about everything, even just Cuting Some Footage together, but its propably not an easy start if you dont plan on doing heavy editing on your stuff like Background Replacement, Masking, keying and more advanced Animation somewhere in your foreseeable future.
The Main Disadvantage of FinalCut and Motion is, that it will only run on MacOS! That means, if you want to use FinalCut, and dont allready own an Apple-PC, you need to buy one or set up some Kind of Hackintosh...
If you allready have a Mac, some older Versions of FinalCut and Motion can be had for quite Cheap. (Like Really cheap, around 20€ or even Less sometimes, where i Live)
On the other hand, you could use Premiere Pro from the Free Adobe CS2 and the free trial version of Twixtor (yes, it will work with CS2!) and dont even need to spend any money. Twixtor is an seriously Expensive Plugin, but if you use it for personal Projects only, its best to find a Way to remove the Watermark on the Free version (its not that difficult... PM me, if interrested.), for Serious Work i would Strongly reccomend you to get the Payed Version without the Watermark, if you want to go with Twixtor (just renders sooo much faster).
Here is the Best video on the topic, that i found up to this date:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rbQbhf15js
Use whatever works best for You!
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Still not quite Sure, what to reccomend for you...
But i would say, stay with software for Video Cut, that means Premiere Pro and Final Cut if possible, unless you really need to use something else for reasons.
If you dont anyways own an Mac, i would say, save yourself some Trouble and use Premiere and Try the Free Twixtor -Trial-Version with it.

5
General high-speed discussion / Re: Drones and High Speed Aerial Imaging
« on: January 26, 2019, 12:07:08 PM »
I think they should regret, that they missed showing the Phantom lift by the Phantom.  ;)
:) Sure!
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I think you would be able to Lift someting like a Chronos, including your Sketchy Router-Setup :), with some Way smaller and way more affordable Drohne.
What they had there was some serious Drohne for all that weight.
Those Big Phantom-Flex-Camera are Huge and should be quite painfully heavy for someting that should Fly. (too Lazy to look up the exact weight of the Cameras they used for that). Chronos is much lighter and Smaller
But i still heavily doubt, that you could lift / savely operate in the air, a Chronos (including an Gimbal and all the other crazy Stuff you might want to put on / around it) with Standard DJI-Phantom.

6
General high-speed discussion / Re: Drones and High Speed Aerial Imaging
« on: January 25, 2019, 12:00:15 PM »
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_5Ce7JgBPM
Minute 3:55
Big Highspeed-Cameras and small Drones...

7
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Mounting Camera to Microscope
« on: January 16, 2019, 05:41:26 AM »
Ok thank you for such a thorough response! it was very informative, I appreciate it.

 I think I will go with the fotodiox!
Very happy that i could answer your Question with this!

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Mounting Camera to Microscope
« on: January 15, 2019, 01:29:15 PM »
If you want to be really cheap, you could even go for one Of those adapters here (dont know your location, shiping could be expensive if you are not in europa):
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https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nikon-F-AI-Lens-to-C-mount-16mm-Cine-Film-Mount-Adapter/123311930213?epid=6022605156&hash=item1cb5f6bb65:g:RjYAAOSw0EZbc8Gc
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https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nikon-F-mount-to-C-mount-adapter-quality-vintage-adapter/253881524826?hash=item3b1c84a25a:g:qnsAAOSwWEBboh0N:rk:53:pf:0
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https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nikon-F-mount-to-C-mount-adapter-High-quality-adapter-2/263265967635?hash=item3d4bdfde13:g:PhwAAOSwwqdZ5OfH:rk:52:pf:0
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https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nikon-F-AI-mount-Objektivadapter-fur-C-mount-16mm-Film-Mount-kamera-Adapter/182240131297?hash=item2a6e5bb8e1:g:ckYAAOSwubRXHdDB:rk:17:pf:0
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https://www.ebay.de/itm/Schneider-C-Mount-Adapter-im-Nikon-F-Bajonett/401686065268?hash=item5d865af074:g:R1QAAOSwQ9lcPD1K:rk:2:pf:1
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Just be aware that its a bit of an gamble with those cheap China-Adapters, sometimes they are good, but sometimes have some play or are not very precise. If the Adapter doesnt get to much physical stress, that should work out ok, if there is a lot of movement on Camera or Microscope or if the adapter is exposed to other rough conditions, i would absolutely go for the Fotodiox from Amazon.
As discussed in an other Thread about cheap SD-Cards, its most times better not to go too cheap on your Camera Accesorys! Just keep in mind that you just spendt a ton of money on your camera, so dont pair it with crappy other components, especially if you want to do serious work with it or want to have fun for long time.
That said, I also would not spend 150 on that Olympus adapter... The Fotodiox one should be very good (from what i have seen and heard from them, dont own anything from them myself), but i am also happy with most of my China-Adapters :)
Whatever you buy, is up to you!

9
General high-speed discussion / Re: Drones and High Speed Aerial Imaging
« on: January 15, 2019, 01:00:02 PM »
I think about any Gimbal that is able to hold an average DSLR or bigger DSLM Camera including an Lens should have no trouble at all handling something like the Chronos since the Weight and size is very similar.
Also depends what lens you are Planing to use and what kind of accesorys you plan to use.
If you are not planing to use an crazy heavy /big lens or lots of other stuff attached to the Camera, most mid-Size DSLR-Gimbals should work fine for you. Lot of those are quite Affordable and you could sometimes also rent one, if you only need it once. I kind of Doubt that an High-End Cinematic Gimbal is Actualy NEEDED for an Camera of the Size Like the Chronos. You sure Could use on, if you wanted... But its just more expensive.
To be Save, just check the Specs of the Gimbal you want to buy and compare the maximal load which the gimal is rated for with the Weight of the Chronos + Lens + other stuff (Like HDMI-Transmitter and so on...) / and also Size of the Camera the Gimbal could hold.
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For Drones its quite a bit of an different story here.
As mentioned in the Video you linked, it is a very expensive Drone and hasnt been done bevore, cause its extremely challenging to lift all that stuff up in the air.
The Phantom 4K is an heavy Monster of an Camera compared to the "tiny" Chronos and i think it also needs tons of energy. For such an big Camera you will need an pretty beefy Gimbal and Battery-System which also will add a lot of weight to your already heavy Camera.
your advantage with the Chronos is, that it has an internal Battery, which will propably last long enough for everything you would want to do with it while in the Air.
For Lenses you would propably choose some Wide Prime-Lens or your Kit-Zoom, so weight for camera, lens and Gimbal should be "reasonable"
But while still way less heavy then the Camera-Rig with the Phantom 4K, this Chronos + Gimbal is no Lightweight either.
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So, if you realy want to do something like this, the main Problem would be to find an Gimbal that could hold multiple Kilogramms of Weight while still flying pretty Stable, and to find a Way to mount an Gimbal to it in a way, that it wont fall /break off with all the Vibrations and so on...
If you want, just take any gimbal and do the math, how heavy all the stuff would get, which you would need to mount on your Drone. Weight of all single Components is usualy given somewhere in the Specs of the product.
I am not aware of any "cheap" drone that could do that. I think with drones you would actually need to get something more Professional.
As far as i Know, you will need some kind of Licence in most countrys for a Drone Of that size and Weight (at least after you added the Weight of your camera-Rig).
You will (unless you buy some kind of Complete Solution) also most likely need two (or even three) persons to control that Drone/ Gimbal-Rig you just built.
And since most of the Stuff i just listed is quite expensive and also given that this will propably be used rather rarely (seriously, how much Interresing Stuff coud you film with an High-Speed-Camera-Drone? Even in an Action-Movie...), i think that is about the Reason something like this has only be done once by those Guys with that Phantom 4K. Huge and Heavy cameras (including all kinds of High-Speed-Cameras) on Gimbals and Glide-Cams and Robot-Arms /Cranes on the other Hand has been done since ages, even with those Old, huge Film-Cameras and big Cinema-Cameras, where the Cameras-Rigs on the Glide-Cams or Gimbals would sometimes be as heavy as 20Kg or even more.
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So if you only want more than 60fps from a drone, try something like a drone for a Gopro or even Phone or even think about something like an RX0 from Sony.
I am Not quite up to date with the new GoPros and Phones, but those should do at least 120 / 240 fps in good Quality and even more with the RX0 in Less good Quality. Drones for Cameras of such size are Cheap, small and easy to find. Also mostly easier to control.
If you need more fps/ Resolution, you will most likely need to go with an pretty Serious Drone

10
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Mounting Camera to Microscope
« on: January 15, 2019, 12:49:12 PM »
This adapter should work.
It is an adapter from Nikon-F Mount (should be the on the Microscope side) to an C-Mount thread.
You will need to use an 5mm C-Mount Spacer to connect the Adapter (no matter if you buy the more or less expensive one) in the amazon-Link to your Camera, since the Chronos has an CS-Mount.
This is Basicaly just an 5mm Spacer with an male and an Female C-Mount Thread, and should come included with your Chronos camera, if you bought one with the Kit-Lens.

11
My second question:

- Is it somehow possible to e.g. set 1280x720 while recording "slower", meaning less fps than the default 1500?

Or was the philosophy to skip frames in post to reduce the slow-down of motion?
Sometimes 1280x720 @ 400 fps would be nice to have "in camera", I think :)
(Maybe I just didn't find the setting?)

Thanks!
And all the best for 2019, see you all on the other side! :)
Martin

You can do 60fps or even Lower in Camera and basicaly could use the Chronos as an Normal Speed-CS-Mount videocamera. If you only need 400fps, it most of the time would be better to do it "in Camera" than to skip frames in Post production.
The Advantage of Lower Fps (lower than maximum Fps for your choosen resolution /Frame Size) is, that your recording time will get longer.
The Chronos can store some limited number of frames in Internal Memory. So if you record less frames per Time, your recording time Will get Longer, bevore the chronos has filled up all of its memory and has to delete the oldest frames.

12
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Bad Image Quality
« on: December 17, 2018, 06:26:29 AM »
@Oli:
So, how are you doing with your image Quality?
Allready managed to find out the reason for the bad Quality?

13
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Bad Image Quality
« on: December 10, 2018, 11:04:14 AM »
Yes, this would help everyone a lot, if you could provide some sample footage of yours.
Otherwise its just a big guessing game.
But its never a bad thing to know those basics of manual Exposure Mode, if you want to give the chronos some use and improve your image quality (which i guess you would want both, since you bought one...). Especially since you dont seem to know about the basics of exposure settings.

14
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Bad Image Quality
« on: December 10, 2018, 10:40:33 AM »
Well, i don´t know how much knowledge and experience you have with the manual Exposure in Video and Photographic Cameras....

@Nikon1 . I have zero experience, but I'm watching and reading on it now...However where in Chronos can I adjust Exposure? / Thanks
First off: I dont yet have my own chronos, so i cant tell for sure, look it up for yourself.
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You can adjust exposure in the chronos by:
+changing the Shutterspeed/ Framerate/ Shutterangle.
+Changing the gain. This is compareable with the ISO sensitivity setting in most other digital Cameras or the ASA-Number of your film Camera.
+Changing the Iris setting on the Lens.
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Every one of those settings will make your image brighter or darker, so, depending on what result you want, you have do adjust more than one of those for the desired result.
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Also in general, as i allready said, you want all the light you could get from anywhere most of the time. The more Frames Per Second you capture ("Standard Framerate" (as comes out of the box) should be around 1000 or 1500), the more Light you Will need! if you go for even more Frames Per second (final video will look Slower to the viewers eye) than for Example 1000, you will need MUCH more light, since the camera way has less time to expose per individual image, cause it needs to capture more of them in the same timeframe.
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15
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Bad Image Quality
« on: December 10, 2018, 09:34:05 AM »
Well, i don´t know how much knowledge and experience you have with the manual Exposure in Video and Photographic Cameras, but using a camera like the Chronos requires quite some of that.
This camera has, as far as i am aware, NO Automatic Exposure Mode or any other kind of Automatic Mode.
That means, that you will most likely have to adjust your setting for your Lighting Situation, almost every time you want to capture something with it.
So, it is kind of normal, that the result is bad, if you just unbox your chronos, power it on, and hit the record-trigger....
You will need to adjust your settings everytime or have to have the same Lighting all the time to get reasonable results. Otherwise you will end up with Videos which are to bright or too dark (or out of focus, if you dont focus correctly...btw: Chronos has no Autofocus, if you dont allready know that...).
I would recomend you to look up some tutorials/ videos on How to use Manual Exposure Mode on Photographic/ video-Cameras, that will explain a lot and will help you to find the right settings for this kind of camera.
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Not sure what that flickering you get is all about, but a lot of light sources in your everyday life will flicker when filmed in slow motion. Most people cant see that with their bare eyes, but the Chronos can see that very well!
Try filming in bright sunlight, if you get that same kind of flickering, it is most likely caused by the Chronos.
Otherwise, If this flickering is not visible with only the sun as light, it is probably caused by whatever lightsource you are using.
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Also, you need tons of light for a highspeed-Camera to get good Image Quality.
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Hope that heped a bit with your problem.

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