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Messages - Nikon1

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76
Yes, both of these will work, but i personally would highly prefer the one with the Angle Plug on the Side Of the Barrel-Jack Connector, as a Straight Plug is just extremely Annoying sticking out of the Camera on the Side that Far (just my Opinion btw.).
 But yes, in terms of Powering the Camera from the V-Mount Adapter Plate, both Cables will do that.
 Buy which ever fits your Personal Preference.

77
Use a Multimeter to Check that.
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter
 Cheapest ones can usually be had for 5 to 10 € / USD; and if you ask around, one of your Friends or Family likely already has one somewhere, especially if they have to Do with Computers or other Electronics.
 Else just buy a cheap Digital one that is able to measure Voltage up to 20 Volts or more and you are good to go.
 .
 How you would find out, if Polarity is correct, is to hold the Red Probe connected to the Red Terminal on the Multimeter up to the Contacts on the Inside of the Barrel Jack of the Adapter Cable (its usually also Indicated by a + Sign on the Multimeter to Label the Positive Terminal) and the Black or "-" Cable to the Outside.
 Set the Multimeter to Measure Voltage up to the Next highest available Range greater than 20 volts (if different ones where available, else just set it to Measure Voltage).
 If The Multimeter then shows a Positive Value of somewhere around 19V its good to Plug in.
 Otherwise if Polarity of the Cable is Wrong, a Negative Number / Value should show up on the Screen of the Multimeter.

78
Can you order this Adapter Plate, if the GlobalMedia-Pro Adapter does not Ship to your Place?:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=804.0

79
Didnt Know that IKAN Plate existed, but as far as i can tell, that is looking like the EXACT same Product, with the Exception, that the IKAN one comes with that Rod Clamp and a Sticker. There is even a Spot on the Globalmedia-Pro one i own, where the Exact same Size Yellow Sticker would fit, and a Area of Solid Material in the Back of the Plate, where you could easily Drill to Mount the Plate. If you want, i can Post Images of the PCB inside for Comparison, i am Fairly certain That these are Likely made by the Same Company or at least in the Same Factory.
 .
 The Cable you need is a D-Tap to 5.5 x 2.5mm Barrel Jack Adapter Cable. Here are two Examples on German Ebay:
 https://www.ebay.de/itm/385207128781
 https://www.ebay.de/itm/324734192393
 There are Plenty different Styles of those, with Straight Plugs or angled ones, coiled or Straight Cable and Different length, choose whichever fits the needs of your Rig the Best.
 Only Important thing is to make sure that it delivers Positive Voltage on the Inside And Negative Voltage on the Outside Barrel of the Barrel Plug.
 If it does not, you can usually just open the D-Tap Plug with a single Screw and turn the Insides around to change Polarity.
 Should however come with the Correct Polarity by default, but still check it before Plugging it in!
 .
 Another Thing to note is, that this Adapter Plate can only Provide 2A at 19V; and the Chronos as Specified by the Datasheet technically needs 2.1A.
 If you Run the Camera without an Internal Battery, this can and usually will cause the Camera to shut off at Random sometimes, especially when stuff like HDMI, Ethernet or External Drives are Plugged in. I Assume, that the Camera can Sometimes Draw more than 2.1A of current for a Brief Moment, and that Triggers some Kind of Over-current Protection inside the Adapter Plate.
 Solution to this is, to always run the Camera with the internal Battery in the Camera.
 That way, you can also Hot-Swap the V-Mount Batteries, as the Internal Battery will power the Camera for the Time you Swap V-Mount Batteries.

80
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Loosing settings when power lost.
« on: November 04, 2022, 09:11:21 AM »
currently busy, but will try to look into it, cant promise anything right now however.

81
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Loosing settings when power lost.
« on: November 03, 2022, 06:43:46 PM »
Depends on which battery you are talking about, The Chronos actually has two.
 The Rechargeable one, which i assume everyone would know about, and an Internal one which is not Rechargeable, that one is sitting Inside the Camera Housing on the Lens-Side of the Mainboard on the Bottom next to the IO-Ports.
 Not 100% certain of what that Battery is doing, but if it works any bit like a normal Computer, that little Battery is Likely responsible for keeping Time on an Clock, so the Thing Knows the Correct current Time and Date and takes care of some basic Settings not getting lost.
 So in your Case, it sounds a lot like that Battery Inside there on the Mainboard might have died. At least that would be where i would start looking, if i had that Problem you described. Though i really dont know if the Camera can loose recently Changed Settings from loss of Power, if the Internal Battery is still working fine. Pretty sure loss of Power happened to me more than once on that camera, but can not recall it loosing any Settings or fully Resetting anything (I have my UI on the Left side, and i really dislike having it on the Right, so its very noticeable if it had done so). I think the most telling Fact would be, if the Camera looses Time and Date Settings, that would be a very Clear Pointer to that Little Internal Battery.
 Not really Hard to replace/ check yourself, but if you are not comfortable, i am Pretty sure Krontech would also be able to replace it for you.
 .
 See Image for Location of the Internal Battery.

82
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Problems with Save
« on: November 01, 2022, 08:53:35 PM »
There is some kind of bug, where the Camera obviously has a Problem starting and ending the Save of some specified Sequence of Frames EXACTLY (especially for a very small number of single Frames), posted about that at least two times, but currently can only find this one:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=726.0
 What exactly is the Problem here inside of the underlying Software, that makes this happen is not known, at least to me.
 While i never had it actually Lock up / crash from saving, its not too far of a Stretch that this could somehow also be a very related issue.
 .
 As Far as Preserving Footage stored in RAM goes, well, that is the Whole Point of RAM / A Restart of the Device / Just how Computers work.
 RAM is usually (as is the Case in the Chronos) Non-Permanent Memory. Meaning a Full / Hard Restart of the Device will Clear the Memory, as it First Fully Powers down, then looses anything stored in RAM, Then Boots up again.
 There Really is no way to avoid that. Thats why we even have to Save to Permanent Storage, else you could just leave the Footage in RAM, Power it down, download it some time Later to the PC directly.
 .
 Regards Loosing Footage however, there is a way to avoid that. Also asked Krontech once, some Time ago, how to prevent loss of footage, as i also had the Camera Crash on me (for me not WHILE saving, but after Recording, when just reviewing Footage or Scrolling around in the Playback, or when Plugging in / out an External HDMI Monitor. Mostly solved the Issue by always Plugging in HDMI after having fully booted the Camera and letting it sit for 1 to 5 Minutes, and only then Powering on the External Monitor. also by always starting the Save of the Footage ASAP after recording and not Playing around much in the Playback, also not changing the Rig while doing that (not plugging or unplugging anything while doing that, including Storage). Since doing that, it didnt happen much anymore, and if, usually after i was done Saving.).
They in turn Sent me detailed Instructions, on how to Recover Footage from RAM, even when the Camera has Crashed and you cant interact with it.
Its Possible, but you must not power the Camera down or Restart it. Has to Keep Running, then the Footage will stay in RAM. Camera Looses Power or gets restarted, and its gone forever.
I have personally never done that, as i usually shoot stuff in the Field (sometimes quite Literally in the Field or the Woods, would likely run out of Power on the Batteries trying to get to a PC in time, even if i tried), and have no PC on Hand to do that. Also most of my stuff, even if i am within Reach of a PC is either not all that important or usually Fairly easy to recreate (and mostly quicker to just reshoot, then to bother trying to recover it).
I still am Glad they Sent me the Instructions, and i will Keep them Around, in case i ever shoot something thats actually that Important or hard to re-do and i get a Crash, but for me that is usually not practical.
.
For you however, especially if there is a lot of cost involved when loosing Footage, it would probably make sense trying to recover the Footage. Try to get the Instructions for that from Krontech, and try it out before you rely on it, so you are sure it works.
If they dont answer in time for your Projects, write me back here, then i will try to dig up that mail, and send it to you myself.
.
Until then maybe try using another Storage Device, if it keeps happening often with that specific USB drive.
Maybe try an SD-Card or E-SATA Drive. Or an USB Stick of different Size / File System / Brand.

83
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Help! Clean camera sensor (ir filter)
« on: September 13, 2022, 03:47:02 AM »
GENERAL DISCLAIMER / WARNING:
 .
 A thing to be said in General about Cleaning your Sensor.
 Anything beyond blowing on it carefully with a blower will always produce some Level of risk of Scratching the Glass Surface you are Trying to Cleaning.
 Further more Wet Cleaning Introduces the Risk of whatever Cleaning Fluid you decide to use messing with Coatings.
 Now the Chronos is a expensive Piece of Kit, and if you Damage the IR-Filter in Front, you CAN replace it, however, if you Damage the Actual Sensor Cover Glass, Repair becomes expensive. Not only is the Sensor itself to be Replaced which is expensive on its own, you also need to send it back to Krontech, as they will not allow Replacement of the Sensor by an user no matter who, and will need to do that at their Place.
 .
 Anything involving Contact Cleaning and Especially Wet Cleaning puts your Camera at Risk of you Damaging it, especially if you never done it before or at least seen anyone else Clean a Sensor Properly before.
 If that is the Case, and you never have Cleaned any Sensor in your Life before and also have never seen anyone else do it personally (Videos kinda dont count in my opinion), i strongly recommend you to go practice on any other Camera first, because if you mess up, its a lot less damage done and Cheaper to Replace, especially if you depend on the Chronos to run your Studio or whatever.
 .
 For anyone who has never done it, consider just letting a Professional Clean it. Generally, i assume most Bigger reputable Camera Stores would take the Chronos in for a Sensor Clean, but make sure to choose a Reputable Store and not a Sketchy, cheap one. Some of these Full-Spectrum Conversion Shops maybe as well offer Sensor Cleaning.
 If you cant find anything Locally, or just dont want to trust any of the Stores Around wherever you are, remember, it is still cheaper to send it to Krontech to get them to Clean the Filter / Sensor than to Send it to Krontech to Replace the Sensor...
 .
 Also from what i heard from Asking around to write this here Post, if you happen to have a Sony Brand Camera, just dont even Bother trying to Clean yourself, just give it to a Store to Clean it for you, ideally one that does a lot of Sony Stuff every day anyways.
 .
 Most other Cameras / Sensors / Filters should be fairly straight forward to Clean, but always be Careful still, especially with stuff you never worked with, as it could be in fact different (i personally didnt know about the Thing with Sony sensors, and probably would have been overconfident if i had ever had to clean a Sony Sensor, probably damaging it in the Process!!!), and these are Very Sensitive Surfaces after all, and cant be Repaired once actually damaged.
 .
 So be aware, that you are Taking a Risk here, or let someone do it, that has Experience is the Summary of this Warning!
 Good Luck to anyone attempting to clean it themselves, and feel Free to Post your Experience in doing so here.

84
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Help! Clean camera sensor (ir filter)
« on: September 13, 2022, 03:24:55 AM »
IR-FILTER (BANDPASS-FILTER) REPLACEMENT:
 .
 Given your IR-Filter is irreversibly damaged by Scratches to a point where you cant Avoid Replacement or just Want To Replace it anyways.
 Genuine Replacement IR-Filters are Available directly From Krontech. Its Still not yet available via their Shop, but if you ask them, they will usually sell you one. By now its apparently somewhat normal to just order a Spare Filter when Buying the Camera. Back when i did order mine, i must have been one of the First ones to ever ask about getting a Spare as you could really tell People at Krontech where Quite surprised about that Request.
 .
 Filter Dimensions of the Original Factory Filter installed in my Camera are 0,995mm x 23,98mm x 15,99mm.
 Thickness has been Verified by a 0,995mm Gauge Block, but nominal Size should be 1 x 24 x 16mm.
 .
 Now since from what i Remember Shipping, Taxes, and Customs Processing for just ordering a Single filter on its own to Germany are vastly More Expensive than the Actual Filter itself, there are some Alternatives as to where to get Filters from.
 Also you might want to run the Camera for Full-Spectrum Use or capture IR-Light / UV-Light only and not mess with your Backfocal Distance (while fairly easily Adjustable on this Camera it can still be a Pain, if you need to Switch a lot back and fourth between them).
 .
 Alternative Sources for Custom Filters include Kolari Vision for US and Schott / Edmund Optics for Europe (but i think they operate worldwide also?).
 Kolari Vision confirmed, that they will Cut Filters to Custom Sizes, and the Size Required for the Chronos is Available.
 Schott Surprisingly enough also Sells to people privately without having a Company themselves, but have a 1000€ Minimum Order Value in Place (Which probably is a bit Steep for the Average User, unless you want a bunch of Spares for Your Chronos Ring Setup?).
 Schott However sells all their Products through Edmund Optics for anyone with super-Small Order Sizes like Single Units of Custom Size Filters. And Yes, they also Cut to Custom Size, and the Required Size for the Chronos is Available there.
 Then there is also Stuff Like this here, but i cant say anything about the Quality of the Filters they Sell or the Quality of their cuts, as i never bought there, try at your own risk:
 https://www.ebay.de/itm/192884462869
 If nothing else works, or you are in some really Remote Place/ Country, your best bet on finding a Replacement would Probably be to find some Store / Shop that does Full-Spectrum Conversions of DSLRs and such, they usually have Filters at hand and Tools to cut them to size Properly.
 .
 Generally you can also just get whatever 1mm thick IR-/UV-Cut Filter Glass and Attempt to cut it at home, if you want to go as cheap as Possible:
 https://picsngeek.at/photography/cutting-filter-glass-for-camera-ir-or-full-spectrum-modification/
 But i generally do not recommend, especially the way its done here in this Guide. Apart from a bunch of things i would probably do different, Applying Any kind of Adhesive Tape is Strongly Recommended against, as it can damage the Coatings on the Filter or straight up rip parts of it clean off, as well as possibly leaving Residue on there.
 However, if you Really need to, and dont have access to anything better, its probably still Resulting in a better looking Image than when used without one and all the Pink Taint from the IR Light on there. So more of an Emergency "Live-Hack" kind of thing than anything else.
 Note that most Circular IR-/UV-Cut Filters (The ones you Screw onto your Lenses in the Front) are thicker than 1mm (something like 1,4mm Thick is Common for the Somewhat larger ones, if i recall Correctly), which will mess with your Backfocus Setting/ Distance and maybe will lead to issues when Screwing the Bracket back in on the Chronos, that is holding the Filter (Be very Careful not to over-Tension it, risk of Cracking it!), but again, if you have one of these Circular ones on hand and need one RIGHT NOW in an Emergency, it can Work.
 

85
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Help! Clean camera sensor (ir filter)
« on: September 13, 2022, 02:47:39 AM »
SENSOR CLEANING:
 .
 If your Sensor Filter Glass (aka. "IR Filter" / "Hot Mirror") or Sensor Cover Glass (the Piece of Glass that is Physically bonded to the Sensor Package in front of the Actual Silicon Sensor) is Dirty to a point where cleaning is needed, it usually is a good idea to first attempt Non-Contact Cleaning. This is usually done by one of these Small Bellows / Blowers which are also sometimes used for Lenses. If you dont have one, you can also try to carefully blow on it with your Mouth. If you use your Mouth though make very sure not to accidentally spit on it or something.
 .
 Given that is not sufficient to remove the dirt on there, you need to Proceed to actual Contact Cleaning. Here it is important to Identify what kind of Dirt you are Dealing with to take Appropriate Cleaning Measures to Remove it.
 .
 Generally the most Common Contamination you should find on your Sensor would probably be Dust from the Surrounding Air.
 Given that Dust Cant be Removed by Blowing it away, I Personally can Highly Recommend the Eyelead Cleaning Stick. Used Mine since 2015, which are about 7 Years by now, and it is still going strong. Been through two Packs of the Tape it comes with (can be bought separately as a Refill-Pack. For my mainly "smaller" Sensors like 1" and MFT i usually cut them in Half, so they last twice as long per Pack) by now and into my third. Not quite as strong as it once was when new, but still very much usable and will probably last at least another 5 to 10 Years to come from how it looks. I Personally never had any Trouble with using it, and got good Cleaning Results every time.
 Still, i have never tried to Clean Anything Sony Brand with it, and would highly recommend you to stay away from Trying to do so also. Used it with all my Nikon Cameras and Some Panasonic Stuff as well as some much more Generic Filters and Sensors, as well as the Chronos. Seems to work well with those from my experience, cant speak for any other Brands or how they behave.
 I bought my Eyelead Cleaning Stick in a Local Camera Store here in Germany and am very sure that is an genuine one. There however seems to be a huge booming market of selling counterfeit ones on ebay and the Like. I recommend to Stay away from those, as in my opinion it is not worth it to potentially Ruin a Camera Sensor to save some Bucks on genuine Brand Cleaning Tools, but that is everyone's own decision. If you are not in Germany, its probably a good idea to somehow contact The Company and ask for Official Resellers or just order directly there.
 Also, the Camera Store i bought mine at instructed me to VERY GENTLY "roll" the Flat Surface slowly over the Sensor, and not Plunge it on there and Rip it off after, as shown in so many of these Videos.
 Probably need to make a Video about that at some point if i find time to do so.
 .
 This Adhesive Cleaning Stick is what i still consider "dry" Cleaning, while contact Cleaning. In my Opinion (if used Properly) quite a bit more fool-Proof for Beginners, as there is no Wiping-Motion across the Sensor Surface involved, which potentially could damage the Glass or Coatings by scratching, if anything of Abrasive Nature happened to be within that Dust, only the Rolling Motion.
 .
 .
 If you have any much more Stubborn Residues from whatever on there, like stuff of adhesive nature, grease etc. you pretty much have to clean it wet.
 Important for Contact Cleaning is, that you use soft, ideally Lint Free cleaning Tools. Anything containing Abrasives, hard/  Rough Surfaces; Sharp (as well as Blunt) Blades; Metal and Metal Fibers MUST NOT BE USED!
 Suitable Cleaning Fluids Include: Demineralized Water (if needed with a bit of Pril); General Purpose Glass Cleaners Like Ajax; and for a bit of more heavy-Duty Cleaning following Solvents: Acetone (Pure Acetone); Ethanol; Cleaning Benzine.
 Any Kind of Cleaning Fluids containing Strong Acids, Strong Alkaline Detergents as well as anything Containing Flouride and Cleaning Solutions with abrasive / Polishing Additives MUST ALSO NOT BE USED FOR CLEANING!
 You can also buy ready Made Cleaning Solutions especially for Cleaning Sensors and Sensor Filters in Different Places, never worked with any of those, but assume most of them should generally also be fine to use on there.
 I Personally use Acetone mainly, as is Industry Standard in Optics, even though its probably not the easiest to work with for beginners.
 .
 First off, you need to be very gentle with it, its still glass after all and very Sensitive just by nature. Do not Scrape around on the Surface, and do not Soak the whole thing in Cleaning Fluid. Whatever Tool you end up using, should only be "damp" not Dripping wet. Also Pay attention, that with most modern Digital Cameras, there is quite a bunch of Plastic Parts Around the Sensor and Filter, which can be Affected by the Solvents. With Strong Solvents, you even run risk of dissolving / "melting" the Plastics which is Problematic. So be aware of that, if you are working on a Camera body that Contains Plastics. The Chronos Camera Body is fully Metal however and the Sensor is only Surrounded by Metal and Glass in the Front, so no Risk there.
 .
 For Suitable Cleaning Tools, Something Like Soft clean Cotton Cloth generally will work, but is not always Practical due to the small space Available around the Sensor in most Cameras of that Sensor Size. I like using high Quality Cotton Q-Tips (If you want to use Q-Tips, get your hands on Lab grade Q-Tips if you can), but again, probably not very beginner-Friendly.
 For Beginners, its Likely best to try using these Wide Sensor wipers, which are basically also just wider Shaped Q-Tips, but its generally easier to get an evenly clean Surface on whatever you are Cleaning. Personally never used them, but see, how it probably would be pretty hard to get good Cleaning Results for Beginners with normal Q-Tips as i usually Use.
 Do not apply much Pressure, as whatever holds the cotton or soft Part on these still has to be fairly hard, even if Plastic, wood or Cardboard Material for Structural Strength of the tool, and Can Still Scratch the Glass with use of excessive Force.

86
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Help! Clean camera sensor (ir filter)
« on: September 13, 2022, 01:46:48 AM »
Sorry for the late reply, needed to do some Research on this first, to be able to properly answer this.
 Asked around a bit, cause there Seems to be quite the Controversy about how to clean Sensors and Sensor Filter Glass right.
 If anybody does not know what this is about, its mainly about what Cleaning Products To use, as well as Cleaning Fluids.
 Especially big seems to be the Controversy about the Adhesion Cleaning Sticks by the Company Eyelead, which i would have personally wanted to recommend and looked it up:
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpeARxQARq4
 Others however (like me) seem to strongly Recommend the Eyelead Cleaning System:
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fetJfPILU3o
 To just give one Example for each.
 Main Issue Seems to be apparently, that it leaves Residue on Sonys DSLM Sensors and Filters.
 But then again, after seeing how people use these and Instruct others on using these, i am not much Surprised. Shown here is them Recommending / Instructing / Showing People to just Plunge Straight down with these, then just Rip them straight back up again very fast:
 https://youtu.be/fetJfPILU3o?t=112
 .
 Then there is also the Whole Controversy about whether it is save to use IPA and Methanol without doing Damage to the Coatings and if for example Acetone would actually leave residue when used for Cleaning.
 .
 .
 Turns out, that even Professionals in Camera Stores and such are having trouble cleaning Sony Sensors, as they are actually different somehow (Coatings are big Trade Secrets, so likely nobody except Sony Themselves and a Select few others probably know for sure what exactly is going on inside these Coatings), and are just generally very hard to Clean.
 .
 In the Following a Short Conclusion of what i am Comfortable to Recommend in Regards to Sensor Cleaning after Consulting some Experts:
 

87
Software Dev / Re: How the darkframe substraction procedure is implemented?
« on: September 11, 2022, 03:30:31 PM »
you could have a look through the Files yourself like this:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=667.msg4484#msg4484
 .
 The Calibration Data can be exported to a USB Drive, that should help find the Files or Files Alike on the SD-Card.

88
Software Dev / Re: How the darkframe substraction procedure is implemented?
« on: September 11, 2022, 04:42:00 AM »
Read a little more about these Cameras, seems like they (or at least some of them) are thermoelectrically cooled, and you can fully control Sensor Temperature?
 That is a Nice Feature, have to say.
 If you happen to own one of these, what kind of Sensor Temperature would you typically want to run these at?
 Also how much of an issue is Condensation, and if Condensation is Happening, what to do against it?

89
Software Dev / Re: How the darkframe substraction procedure is implemented?
« on: September 11, 2022, 04:10:02 AM »
Ok, was not aware of these Cameras, but kinda makes sense Astro-People would have Products Like that. Never came Across Those so far.
 That website you linked is really not easy to navigate, cant find any proper Datasheet / Full Technical Data overview for any of these Cameras from a brief look; but if you say so, its Probably true that these would Provide something close to actual "RAW Sensor Data".
 .
 If you need this for some reason, i suggest one of these two things:
 .
 Get your Hands on the Oldest Firmware Possible, as these had way less advanced Processing of the Image Data. Modify at need, The Firmware is open Source. I am no Programmer, and if you are also not, get some help from someone who is.
 .
 Other Option would be to ask Krontech via their Support. I highly doubt that there is any option to just straight up turn off all Image Processing via the Camera GUI, but maybe there is some Quick Modification you can do to the Firmware via Console or something, like this Mod here:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=661.msg4585#msg4585
 That way, if it works, you could save yourself a bunch of actual Coding.
 .
 .
 If you find a way, consider sharing it here, in case someone else also needs unprocessed Footage.
 

90
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Is this normal quality for Chronos 2.1?
« on: September 10, 2022, 12:56:40 PM »
Depends a bit on the Settings, but based on what settings i assume you probably used here, and given its a fairly dark shot, i also would say its looking about like expected Performance.
 While it is a Pretty serious Cameras as well as fairly expensive compared to most consumer-Type Cameras, it is not your Typical Multi-Purpose Video-Camera. Its a Dedicated Highspeed-Video Camera, that requires Quite a bit of Light to produce High Quality Images, as is extremely Common in Highspeed-Cameras. It has enough Sensitivity to also Capture Footage at High Framerates if you really have to in not ideal Lighting, but that usually comes at the Cost of Lower Quality.
 While you can Certainly use this Camera for Landscapes, general Video- Use or even Photography if you want, it will usually not perform as well as a "normal" (DSLR-/ DSLM-) Camera that is built mainly for this use and maybe has some kind of High-ish Framerate Option (120fps / 180fps /240fps sometimes even up to 500 or 1000 fps). This Camera does also not perform too good in Low-Ish Light Settings and what we today consider Low-Light in the Age of Sonys A7s Series Cameras if your Target is High Image-Quality.
 .
 Also A thing most average People or Beginners in Highspeed-Video sometimes are not aware of, is that some or even the Major Part of High-Speed Footage you generally get to see has been through some quite heavy Editing (denoising etc.):
 https://youtu.be/at-xZA5U1ps?t=587 As an Example
 This takes a fair bit of Practice, Skill and Time, to get stuff that was shot in non-ideal Conditions look good or at least decent.
 .
 If you can, maybe share your Settings for this shot, if you want further Help to Improve your Quality. Ideally you would want the Fastest Aperture Lens you could for that Kind of shot on a Dark Day Like that, and use lowest Gain Settings possible, ideally 0dB analog Gain and 0dB Digital Gain. Also this Camera does not like to capture Low Exposed Footage. Contrary to what you would Commonly do on your Typical DSLR for Video, trying to stay away from Overexposing and rather boosting exposure in Post, on this camera you generally want to avoid too low exposure. To be Clear, you still wouldnt want to fully Blow out your Highlights, but heavily boosting your Shadows or the Exposure in Generally in Post usually is not an Option, if you are Going for High Image Quality.
 Also make sure, that its running the Latest Firmware, Noise Performance has improved quite a bit in the Last updates.

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