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General high-speed discussion / Re: Lights on the go
« Last post by staticfan5525 on September 11, 2020, 01:57:04 PM »
Thanks for the quick info already guys!

For scenes, we're looking at 6-12 sq-in, so we don't need a large area of light, which helps! At the higher speeds, we're also looking at events that create some light themselves (namely muzzle flashes, gasses going through compensators, etc.), so we have gotten by with mostly black backgrounds and picking up the bits of light which are more important to us.

Buy-charge-click on is preffered, and I didn't notice that the one Godox light in the Chronos was battery powered the first time I looked! But we're cheap, um, I mean efficient with our money use...

The Stratus "mount on a board, attach a battery, plug in a switch and a pot" get up is about as "DIY" as we'd want to get, and that actually looks pretty good... I might go that route if nothing easier/cost effective comes about...

Thanks for your help guys!
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General high-speed discussion / Re: Lights on the go
« Last post by Nikon1 on September 11, 2020, 01:43:54 PM »
I bought a couple of these Stratus LED units with the reflector. I havenít put them through their paces yet but they are a reasonably cost effective solution if you donít mind making your own mounts to hold them.

https://www.stratusleds.com/module
Well, from What i understood, staticfan5525 wants some ready to use unit/ Light without need to build / make anything himself. Like a Flashlight. There are Plenty of High-Power LED-Modules around, but you will always need to do some DIY stuff to get them Working. In that case, maybe consider Lamps like Krontech offers on their Website https://www.krontech.ca/store/Lights-c27519001 , some of those Type can be run Battery powered also. Then again there are LED-Panels which will run from V-Mount Batteries or Standard Sony Batteries. I have Some DŲrr DLP820 Lamps with a bunch of Tripods and 190Wh V-Mount Batteries, but the Batteries on them selfs are allready like 200$, so...
 As i allready said, its kind of a decision between how much money you want to spend and how much DIY you want to get involved.
 If money is not a Problem, might as well get a bunch of Arri Skypanels with Batteries, about as Serious as it gets while beeing really bright, but dont even ask about the Price of those.
 As Far as DIY goes, there are A couple of even far Cheaper options than what CS223 Linked, but then Prepare for some Serious DIY project.
 Whatever Kind of Butget and Final Light Setup you are Going for here, there is plenty of options around!
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General high-speed discussion / Re: Lights on the go
« Last post by CS223 on September 11, 2020, 01:29:34 PM »
I bought a couple of these Stratus LED units with the reflector. I havenít put them through their paces yet but they are a reasonably cost effective solution if you donít mind making your own mounts to hold them.

https://www.stratusleds.com/module
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General high-speed discussion / Re: Lights on the go
« Last post by Nikon1 on September 11, 2020, 01:25:59 PM »
Well, there are Pretty good portable, battery powered Lights ready to buy, but good luck finding anything under 300$ without Some Kind of DIY.
 Bright, Flicker-Free, Good color Quality Lights cost a pretty penny. And Battery powerd, nice, easy to use ones even more so!
 Dont know what you trying to shoot, but 20kfps on an Portable Light can get interresting/ Expensive if you try to shoot Larger Scenes.
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General high-speed discussion / Lights on the go
« Last post by staticfan5525 on September 11, 2020, 01:21:13 PM »
I've searched this and a couple other forums, but didn't find anything that fit our needs... I'm looking for battery powered light that will help recording outdoors on-the-go.

I see tons of options for plug in movie quality lighting, I see tons of options for people who bought LED's and rigged their own home-brew power sources, etc. I see no options for affordable (<$300) hand held, push the button, let there be light. Help please?!?!!??

I've tried a few "tactical flashlights", and they all flicker except for a "Nitecore P16 TAC" which has a 100% duty cycle at max brightness. But it's only 1000 lumens, and it helps, but not bright enough for the 6-20kfps videos we're doing. Anybody know of anything off the shelf that will work for me?

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: How does the Color Matrix work?
« Last post by Nikon1 on September 11, 2020, 11:33:26 AM »
So i found this, and thats about it for color Matrix stuff.
 Adding Sliders to More easily adjust Brightness, Saturation and Contrast would allready help a ton. If you can find a Way to add more easy control over the Colors, even better.
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Software Dev / Re: Screen Brightness Control
« Last post by Nikon1 on September 11, 2020, 11:18:37 AM »
Also thanks for the Reply!
 while i dont really know how the Hard-Ware or software side of things work for this, here is some kind of idea /background info, how i think it could work.
 Most Cameras i have worked with wont really update Exposure instantly, so grabbing a random Frame every Second or twice a second should be fine. If there Is enough Processing power for something like this, and it wont bottleneck anything else, grabbing a bunch of Frames randomly or at certain time Intervalls and getting an Average over time could be helpfull for Scenes with flickering lights or fast moving things which will influence the Average Exposure by a lot.
 .
 Then most cameras (DSLR/ DSLM) will allow you to choose between Center POINT Exposure, Center Average Exposure, and Average Exposure over the Entire Frame. Those will mostly not use the Entire Frame (on the Most modern DSLM they might, but on the older DSLR there usually was just a single Sensor or just a few of those) to figure out exposure. Those options could be very helpfull for example if you are shooting a concert and The stage in the Center is all bright, but nothing else is, so the Whole Frame is well exposed, but the Part you want to actually see is to bright.
 Now for the Chronos, i think you can get away with using like 100 to 200 Pixels which you read out for this, and Taking an Average of those. Average Brightness value over those ~100 Pixels can then be directly remaped to an Exposure Reading visible to the User (or just display it as Raw data, like 0 for minimum brightness, 1 for Maximum Brightness, would allready help a lot). I guess you will have to try that out, but maybe you can get away with using even less data points, especially for the Center Average Exposure mode. I guess it might be Smart to use Pixel Pairs or even 2x2 Pixels for a Single Data point, to not catch a Random Bright or Dark pixel (also Bayer pattern and a certain Color Could be Darker than other Colors, influencing measured Brightness vs. Real brightness, if anything less than 2x2 Pixels are used for a single "probe" Point) and also to minimize impact from Sensor noise. For Center Point Exposure, reading out a bunch of pixels right in the Center will be Good enough. Maybe something like the Average from the Center 4x4 Pixels or something like that....
 For a Propper Histogramm you will however propably need at least 100 or 200 data Points. Then just figure out how to get distribution of Brightness values onto an Graph and The Histogram is done.
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Software Dev / Re: Screen Brightness Control
« Last post by sanjay on September 11, 2020, 10:53:25 AM »
Thanks for the feedback! Brightness control for the LCD display is something in the works for a future update, so please stay tuned. As far as more intelligent features like an exposure indicator, we'd have to do a bit of digging before coming up with a solution, but it is definitely a useful idea beyond the zebra stripes.

At this point in time, and with the resources we have in the software engineering department, I'm trying to adhere to a quarterly update schedule for the Chronos 1.4/2.1.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Is Krontech still in business?
« Last post by Martin on September 11, 2020, 10:18:01 AM »
I would like to apologize on behalf of Kron Technologies for not interacting here earlier.

Very much appreciated, Thomas!!! Thanks for taking the time to respond  :)

I'm currently beta-testing a new smartphone, the devs are really struggeling to get the google certification done, and completely abandoned the beta tester forums for weeks now. It's not a good practice to leave customers or supporters hanging, much less on an official channel.

But yea, I'm well aware that "smaller" companies don't always have the man/girlpower to keep tabs on all social media channels and may not able to respond quickly, but I always thought at least one channel, best the official forum, should be at least monitored with half an eye, maybe once a week?

Since there's now complete radio silence from the smartphone devs in my case, I'm happy above average to see life signs from you, even though I'm not waiting on any orders  ;D

Rumor mills shouldn't be left spinning for weeks, the details may be lost over time, but a bad feeling/misconception may linger quite a while  ;)

All the best to the team!
Martin
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: 3D Printable battery puller
« Last post by NiNeff on September 11, 2020, 09:22:37 AM »
After quite a bit of (unrelated) recalibrating of my 3D printer I finally got around to printing this. It works great! Thanks for the idea and the files!
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