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Chronos User Discussion / frame rate stored in saved video?
« Last post by cd3 on February 07, 2019, 03:33:22 PM »
Is the frame rate stored somewhere in the saved video's metadata? I haven't been able to find it. I am using the camera for some experiments, and need to know what the frame rate is to measure speed, and I'm currently just making sure I only use the pre-configured settings so that I can tell what the frame rate is from the resolution.
Chronos User Discussion / Chronos 1.4C 16GB Color for Sale
« Last post by Dan Kanes on February 03, 2019, 09:43:10 AM »
Very lightly used Chronos 1.4C 16GB Color unit.

Includes Battery, AC Adapter.

Lists for $3400 on the Kron-Store.

Asking $3000 with free shipping in continental USA.

Will throw in some extras like an EF mount adapter for it, and an SD card or two.

Please email :

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk LENSES!
« Last post by Nikon1 on February 02, 2019, 08:08:43 AM »
I also have that same Lens, the Fujinon 2,7mm 1.8. Mine Is also without the Aperture, because that one seemd to expensive back when i bought it.
It really is a great Lens and i always keep it in my C-Mount Prime Lens-Set when i Need an Crazy wide FOV Lens.
Got mine for somewhere Between 120 to 180€ about two Years ago. Cant remember the price Exactly.
Cant quite agree on it beeing a Soft Lens, used it on my Nikon J5, which has an 1" Sensor and 20 Megapixel and, well it is a bit soft towards the corners, but overall it can produce very sharp Images, even at such high Resolution. Could Upload Samples, if interrested, just dont have any high-Quality samples at the Moment because i use this Lens VERY rarely.
If you dont get sharp images from this Lens, check if your Focus is actually Correct, since this Lens Has somewhat of a shallow Depth of Field for beeing that wide.
I focus mine simply by unscrewing it from The C-Mount, works nice For me, since i mostly shoot handheld with it. If you plan on using it on an Tripod or alike, you are Quite Limited to whereever your Focus is, or need some percise C-Mount Rings to set The Focus Correctly. If you use The "just unscrew the Thing from the Mount"-focusing-Method, you also have an Pretty Crazy Fisheye-Macro-Lens (could produce very interresing Results with this!) which could focus up to stuff Touching the Front Lens Element and even beyond that... Just dont Drop your Lens if it comes Loose from the Unscrewing...
I also Wanted and Needed a VERY WIDE Lens (That covers my Nikon´s J5 Full 1" Sensor while not beeing fisheye) for A long time, and finaly found something, that i am Happy with.
My Azure 6,5mm f/1.4 combined with an Rehoused old German Wide-Converter, togehter producing an 4,55mm f/1.4 Non-Fisheye-Lens, covering an full 1" Sensor (15,8mm Image Circle)!
Bevore i Got /Built this, i Tried a lot of other Lenses just naming a few here:
- 8mm 1.4 Kowa for 1". Amazing Lens, super Sharp, extremely well built, Love this Lens, most used Lens of my very wide ones, but sometimes just not wide enough.
-6,5mm 1.8? TV Lens (not quite Sure anymore, what the Exact numbers Where). Got that one for 30€ on ebay, not very sharp and also produces somewhat lame Looking images, Cracked the Front Element while Trying To Manufacture a mount for an 0,7x Wide-Angle Converter. Gave it to nineff, because i allready orderd the Avenir back then. For around 30€ good value for the money, but i wasnt toooo happy about sharpness...
-6,7-13mm 1Nikkor Lens. Very Sharp Lens, BTW, some handsome Person could use This Lens on an Chronos or even Rehouse it. (if you want to do this, keep in mind, it is a Focus-By wire only! Lens and hasnt even an aperture dial or something, can be done with heavy Modification and/ or some workarounds, but not very fun thing to do) I Built an adapter-Clamp for my 0,7x Wide-Converter, and that worked well, but it bothered me that this lens was just an f/3,5-5,6 and therefore it was only useable in Daylight...
2,7mm 1.8 Fujinon. See above
4,2mm 1.6 Pentax. Sharp enough lens, very wide, not as Wide as the Fujinon, but stil impressive for such a small Lens. but also Fisheye. Also got this one for 30 to 40€ incl. Shipping, good Value For this price. Will make a Circular image and should even on the chronos produce images with Black corners.
And why did i finaly buy the Azure 6,5mm 1.4, and not the Kowa 6mm 1.8 or one of those old Tegea 5,9mm C-mount- Cinr Lenses and the Like?
Well, the Azure goes for around 200 used and a bit more new (maybe up to 300 including shipping), is a half stop faster than the Kowa, has an Filter Thread, on which a can Mount an Wide-Angle Converter, while th Kowa 6mm only has that Huge, Sticking out, Front Element, With which i had to worry all day about not getting it damaged, and no easy way of attatching an Wide-Converter. Also, the Kowa is a Good bit Bigger, heavier and costs about three times that what the Azure Will cost you. Kowa 6mm 1.8: New around 700, not including shipping and up to 600 used.
Those Tegea and alike are mostly overpriced and they are huge Heavy beasts of Lenses... Havent used one yet, but heard, that those also should not be the Sharpest Lenses ever made. Those Could be worth the money, if you absolutely need or want That Cinematic Look, but i doubt that.
So i bought the Azure 6,5mm 1.4.
This lens is Crazy Sharp, has quite some Contrast to it and an Punchy Look (very clean, not as bold of an contrasty and vibrant Look as the Kowa 8mm 1.4 has). Also, it is super small and has high overall image Quality, Low distortion, minimal Vignetting an is sharp up to the corners and covers an full Nikon 1 J5 1" Sensor without problems. I think this is the best Value for Money and also about as wide as you can get your Lens, bevore you get massive Vignetting, crazy big, heavy and Expensive Lensdesigns or Fisheye-Lenses (At least thats the case for 1" Sensors. Not sure about the bit smaller 2/3" Sensor of the Chronos, there may be an even Wider affordable Option available for that....). Somehow, this Lens Reminds me A LOT of the Cine-Nikkor 6,5mm 1,4 for 16mm Film... not just the Specs, also the Size and the Design of the Lens Body...and its Performance... Havent yet got an 6,5mm Cine-Nikkor in my hands to compare it to (Since those are Crazy rare Lenses and very expensive), but it could be a Plain Copy / Remake of the Cine Nikkor...?
As said, i paired this Azure 6,5mm 1.4 with an 0,7x wide-Converter in an Self Built New housing, togehter making it to about an 4,55mm 1.4 for 1", Non Fisheye.
It is sharp, but mostly in the Center. Looses some Sharpness towards the edges and also has some visible Distortion ( Still WAY better Than any Fisheye-Lens).
Since the Converter itself is also very small, the whole thing is rather compact and Light. Certainly not as good as an Good Brand Full-Frame Rectlinear Super-Ultra-Wide-Lens but also a lot smaller, Faster (f 1.4) and cheaper.
For Samples, just ask, im a bit to Lazy to do a ton of Images here, without knowing if anyone is actually interrested in it.
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk LENSES!
« Last post by nik282000 on February 01, 2019, 01:51:51 PM »
The Fujinon 2.7mm F1.8

I wanted a really wide lens so that I could get a reasonable field of view when using higher frame rates and this lens looked like it would do the job. You can find this lens on ebay starting around 150CAD, there are some sellers that have it listed for WAY more than that, it's not worth that much. If you want one keep looking and wait it out until you can find one for 200 or less.

The Good:
-It's wide! If you are using the full width of the Chronos' sensor you will get a 180degree wide field of view!
-It's fast! F/1.8 means it delivers a very bright image, it captures a lot of light.
-It's small, around 50mm long which is bigger than most c-mount lenses but WAY smaller than the SLR lenses I use.

The Bad:
-Fixed focus, there is no way to adjust the focus other than using the backfocus on the Chronos, you'll need to keep an allenkey.
-It's a little soft, being an F/1.8 it is a little soft but I didn't find it any worse than the other c-mount lenses I use.
-The price, brand new (with the adjustable aperture) it seems to go for 400 CAD and up, hold out for a used one on eBay if you can.
-Image circle, when using the full Chronos sensor the image circle doesn't entirely fill the frame, but given the field of view it's not a huge problem.

Setting the backfocus can be a little finicky, I found it was best to set the Chronos to a small crop (128x128 ish) and then adjust the focus. My copy came with a weird cap/adapter and 2 very thin plastic rings, adding just one of the rings will take the focus from infinity down to 1m or less, this lens is VERY sensitive to changes in distance between the lens and the sensor. Overall I am impressed, it's well built and despite being a little soft it more than makes up for it by giving a 180 degree field of view. For reference, in the last photo the lens is touching the glass of the window and yet you can still see the edges of the frame.
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread
« Last post by Buddlich on January 31, 2019, 03:58:22 PM »

I Like how fire looks in SlowMo ... so surreal *___*
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Workflow - Time
« Last post by Nikon1 on January 28, 2019, 09:54:52 AM »

Lenses:  I already have a rather significant inventory of quality SLR/DSLR lenses - from older, manual Nikon primes, macros, & zooms (18mm f2.8 up to 1000mm) to newer Canon EF & EF L primes and zooms (down to f1.4) as well as a handful of f2.8 Minolta primes and zooms.  There are many adapter options already available for using these lenses (with a crop factor) on the Chronos.  I also have SD and HD Fuji & Canon 2/3" bayonet mount broadcast lenses.  And, I don't currently own any PL lenses.  I haven't read any discussions where success in adapting 2/3" and PL lenses to the Chronos has been achieved.  So, these are probably off the table as options.  Finally, I've seen some recommendations for C / CS mount lenses in other KronTalk forum threads and would likely expand my lens collection with some of these models whether or not my existing lenses will successfully adapt to the Chronos.  It's always nice to have a native fallback option in case my other lenses are needed elsewhere.

Lighting: I have plenty of lighting options including 18,000 watts of Tungsten, 1,000 watts of LED, and access to HMI fixtures.

At this point, what I probably need to do is find one of the Chronos cameras to borrow or rent that I can try out ... or see about an in-person demo.  I won't be able to attend NAB and visit the Kron Tech booth this year due to a prior commitment that week.  Worst case is that I table the decision until later.

Sigh... I would really like this to work.
Havent Read the whole thing in this thread, just read a bit here and there over the text, and had to write a reply just about your statement, that one could not mount 2/3" ENG- Glass on an Chronos....
Those 2/3" Lenses you have, are the perfect thing for the Chronos!
The Chronos has an 2/3" sensor, so you get the absolute Identical and Full Field of View (at Full Sensor Resolution, that is) as with your typical 2/3" Broadcast-Camera. Those Lenses Are ideal, since they provide Focal Length, which is Rare on FF or even s35-Glass (something like 12mm is an normal (50mm FF) Lens on the chronos...) and are Mostly Plenty Fast lenses for an quite Impressive Zoom-Range. And since The Chronos is basicaly an HD-Camera with an Full-Pixel Readout off of an RGB-Bayer Sensor, your Effective Resolution should be quite close to what those SD and HD Lenses Could provide in Detail and Sharpness!
I dont know about any Adapters specificaly for the Chrons Yet, but you can try to get Something like PL To C-Mount...
For those 2/3" mounts, im Not Quite Sure, if there Are adapters for CS-Mount...?
Its Mechanicaly possible and you got lot of space between camera and Lens for adapting.
I am 100% sure, those Lenses are possible and not too difficult to adapt to the Chronos!
For anything else Adapting is quite Straigth forward, for the most part, just buy C-Mount adapters, but if you dont find anyone/ anything else to mount these 2/3" Lenses on that Camera, then Contact me via PM, i will help you find a way, if you actualy are about to get an chronos. Really, Really want to see this.
Dont know, if it would make Sense for you, but some Good Normal or very Wide C-Mount Primes could be a nice and Helpfull addition to your collection of Lenses, especialy if you plan on using the Chronos regularly. Just dont buy overpriced and overhyped glass, there is plenty out there in this whole C-Mount-World.
Remember, that even your 18mm 2.8 will become something like an 70mm TELE Lens on an FF because of the rather small sensor. And that is, if you use full Resolution. If you want to go with even Higher Framerates and SD-Resolution for example, your effective Sensor Size will get even Smaller, thus your lenses will get even more Tele /longer. The Sensor Size of the Chronos is close to Standard 16mm Film-Camera Frame, when using its full Sensor/ full Resolution.
Those C-Mount Primes are also available in Very Fast Versions for most Focal Length, 1.4, f/1, and sometimes even Faster lenses are quite common. Zooms can be found as fast as f/1.2 and even f/1, so, if needed, this could be also nice.
For everything Tele you have a nice collection of Glass there which should be very useable and usefull on the Chronos!
If you really dont want to buy other Lenses, and you seem To have some Serious and complete kit there, think about geting a Speedbooster (like the Metabones 0,58x Canon to BMPCC) and adapt that to the Chronos. Would increase the effective sensor Size to something closer to s35mm Format and make those Lenses much more usefull.
18k Tungsten is somewhat of an starting point, but depends on how big your Set is. If you want to know if you have enough light, take a Shot with an stills Camera at something like T/2 or close your Lens even more, and set the Camera to 1/3000s and Iso 160, that is about what you will see with the chronos when shooting 720pHD 1500fps (180° Shutter) while Trying to keep ImageQuality high. If you still get somewhat of an proper Exposure with those Settings on your Camera, your Lighting is Bright enough! If you still want to have more Depth of Field, you can try to stop your lens down even more, and see how far you could go bevore your image turns finaly Completely black :). If you are able to light your Set to get a proper exposure on some range of apertures on your Lens, or plan on shooting just wide open, you are ready for an highspeed-Camera :)
For Those LEDs and HMI´s: Just check if they will Flicker bevore relying on those! With these Big Tungsten Lights its mostly not a problem, but too small tungsten Lights will also produce Flicker. For LEDs and lot of other Lights, they sometimes tend to Flicker, if not meant to be used for Highspeed-Video!
But if you shoot 240fps there, its propably at least not the typical 50/ 60Hz Flicker....
Simlest check you could do: Put your Stills Camera on a Tripod and take a lot of stills (like at least more than 30) with the above mentioned Settings (most importantly 1/3000s or even Shorter, depending for what framerate you want to check flicker), then put them into AfterEffects (or whatever you be using over there), and cut them together like you would with stills for Stop motion. Play it back ---> See if the Lights Flicker...
If done Correctly, that should give you somewhat of an Preview/ Idea, if those Lights are Flickering. (only way to be sure is still to just test with an actual high-speed-Camera....).
And, while i think about it:
You could just shoot 240fps with 1/3000s and ISO 160 (Iso 160 is about as bright as The Lowest Gain-Setting on the Chronos)...Should give the Same Result.
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Mounting Camera to Microscope
« Last post by Nikon1 on January 28, 2019, 08:45:25 AM »
Ok thank you for such a thorough response! it was very informative, I appreciate it.

 I think I will go with the fotodiox!
Just thought, it would be very interresting, not only for me, but for some other people also, to hear what you actually got for adapting your Microscope and how well it works for your use (that is, if you allready got it). Also about the Built-Quality of the Adapter.
Could be helpfull if i or anyone else wants to adapt some Nikon-F-Mount Lens (or other stuff with such mounts) to the Chronos at some point.
General high-speed discussion / Re: Optical flow and other "fake slow motion" tricks
« Last post by Nikon1 on January 28, 2019, 08:37:47 AM »
That sounds neat as heck! Do you recommend Final Cut to newbies like me, Nikon1? Keeping in mind that I'm willing to learn, just don't have a ton of time on my hands.
while you get the best looking results in Most situations with the Twixtor Plugin (Which i Use in After-Effects, but can be used in Premiere Pro and some other programs), FinalCut should be somewhat easier to use than something like After Effects. Software which is primarily meant to only Cut Footage and do some Basic editing/effects, like Final Cut and Premiere is propably the easiest to use for someone who just starts up and doesnt want to spend a ton of time with it.
But be warned, Both (all) of those have somewhat of a learning-curve to them! But once you figured out how the whole video-Editing-Think works, its not too difficult to swich between them, since most of those Programs have very similar functions, but the Buttons, User-Interface, and General Concept of The Software is sometimes a bit different. Which one you choose is for the Most part just personal preference for everyone. I for myself Like Adobe AfterEffects the Best and use it for about everything, even just Cuting Some Footage together, but its propably not an easy start if you dont plan on doing heavy editing on your stuff like Background Replacement, Masking, keying and more advanced Animation somewhere in your foreseeable future.
The Main Disadvantage of FinalCut and Motion is, that it will only run on MacOS! That means, if you want to use FinalCut, and dont allready own an Apple-PC, you need to buy one or set up some Kind of Hackintosh...
If you allready have a Mac, some older Versions of FinalCut and Motion can be had for quite Cheap. (Like Really cheap, around 20€ or even Less sometimes, where i Live)
On the other hand, you could use Premiere Pro from the Free Adobe CS2 and the free trial version of Twixtor (yes, it will work with CS2!) and dont even need to spend any money. Twixtor is an seriously Expensive Plugin, but if you use it for personal Projects only, its best to find a Way to remove the Watermark on the Free version (its not that difficult... PM me, if interrested.), for Serious Work i would Strongly reccomend you to get the Payed Version without the Watermark, if you want to go with Twixtor (just renders sooo much faster).
Here is the Best video on the topic, that i found up to this date:
Use whatever works best for You!
Still not quite Sure, what to reccomend for you...
But i would say, stay with software for Video Cut, that means Premiere Pro and Final Cut if possible, unless you really need to use something else for reasons.
If you dont anyways own an Mac, i would say, save yourself some Trouble and use Premiere and Try the Free Twixtor -Trial-Version with it.
That sounds neat as heck! Do you recommend Final Cut to newbies like me, Nikon1? Keeping in mind that I'm willing to learn, just don't have a ton of time on my hands.
General high-speed discussion / Re: Drones and High Speed Aerial Imaging
« Last post by Nikon1 on January 26, 2019, 12:07:08 PM »
I think they should regret, that they missed showing the Phantom lift by the Phantom.  ;)
:) Sure!
I think you would be able to Lift someting like a Chronos, including your Sketchy Router-Setup :), with some Way smaller and way more affordable Drohne.
What they had there was some serious Drohne for all that weight.
Those Big Phantom-Flex-Camera are Huge and should be quite painfully heavy for someting that should Fly. (too Lazy to look up the exact weight of the Cameras they used for that). Chronos is much lighter and Smaller
But i still heavily doubt, that you could lift / savely operate in the air, a Chronos (including an Gimbal and all the other crazy Stuff you might want to put on / around it) with Standard DJI-Phantom.
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