So here is an Low-Light/ Dynamic range Test. Settings overally are the Same as from the Test above, but Lights are now used with two Snoot Modifiers to generate a rather Sharp spot resulting in an very extreme Lighting Ratio/ High Dynamic range on the Final image, really pushing the ability of the sensor. Lamps Both turned up to 100% for this, Exposure Settings on the camera unchanged, as well as the Lens. Room Temperature was 19,5 to 19,0°C this time, First "Cold" run was 10,3°C Water temp (lower flowrate than last time to reach the same Temp as bevore), resulting in an 25,5°C Sensor Temp again. "Hot" run was again without any Water Flowing, Sensor temp. while capturing the Footage was 43,0°C (didnt wait forever to let it warm up this time, would propably still have gone up like 1°C, because the Room Got colder meanwhile, but didnt want to wait even longer...Temp was fairly stable allready, so...). I did also include a DNG i recorded after it did heat up completely allready, but bevore Black-Calibration. Both of the other DNGs where shot after doing a Black-Calibration immediately bevore.
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Take a look on the DNGs Yourself, if you want (Uploading them in a .zip again), but to me it seems like the Colder Sensor does a bit better in terms of Dynamic Range. Surprisingly, the Cold sensor seems to also have a little bit more of those Vertical lines visible in the Very, Very dark parts of the Frame, but on the Midtones and Highlights the Colder Sensor Footage looks way cleaner. This is however a very extreme Lighting scenario, and i wouldnt really want to push any Chronos footage so far, that the Lines in the Darker Parts of Frame would actually matter too much, but just wanted to point that out. The Midtones and Highlights, the parts of the Frame which usually matter the most in the Real world (Dark parts and Blacks would usually be crushed anyways in most cases, or if not Frame would propably be lit in a way where the "Blacks" are brighter than the Darker Parts in this frame here), look noticeable better when cooler. Not quite common practice in Filmmaking, as everybody would usually more tend towards underexposing (and boosting Shadows in post) than blowing out the Highlights, but what gives best results with the Chronos from what i have seen.