91
Chronos User Discussion / Re: USB video streaming
« on: September 07, 2022, 05:47:22 AM »[...] "Run and Gun" mode they worked on this year.
Havent heard anything about that yet, did i miss out on something? What is it about (/Features)?
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Havent heard anything about that yet, did i miss out on something? What is it about (/Features)?
92
Chronos User Discussion / Re: USB video streaming
« on: September 06, 2022, 05:24:24 PM »
Dont really have much time to look into that right now, but another Idea to look into would be some kind of HDMI Capture Cards, if that exists for Phones? Like the Elgato kind of Products for PCs?
Another thing may be some kind of Tiny Router, and a Ethernet Dongle for the Phone?
Really dont have much of an idea about that kind of Hardware, never used anything alike (but still seems like Products, that probably should exist somewhere?), or how that would work in regards to Drivers...
Another thing may be some kind of Tiny Router, and a Ethernet Dongle for the Phone?
Really dont have much of an idea about that kind of Hardware, never used anything alike (but still seems like Products, that probably should exist somewhere?), or how that would work in regards to Drivers...
93
Chronos User Discussion / Re: USB video streaming
« on: September 06, 2022, 05:19:00 PM »
I honestly never even heard of that UVC Feature you where initially talking about at all before this.
Also not a Developer for Software in any Capacity and also not in the Market of moving away from using my SmallHD with the Chronos / My Nikon which is just a neat Solid Setup.
So if that is even Possible to do on the Hardware side of the Chronos, probably best to ask the Guys at Krontech if they Have any interest of Implementing that at any Point.
Other than that, i hope you find some Kind of good and easy solution for this as well as a good Replacement Phone that fits your daily Needs.
Also not a Developer for Software in any Capacity and also not in the Market of moving away from using my SmallHD with the Chronos / My Nikon which is just a neat Solid Setup.
So if that is even Possible to do on the Hardware side of the Chronos, probably best to ask the Guys at Krontech if they Have any interest of Implementing that at any Point.
Other than that, i hope you find some Kind of good and easy solution for this as well as a good Replacement Phone that fits your daily Needs.
94
Chronos User Discussion / Re: USB video streaming
« on: September 06, 2022, 12:39:36 PM »
www.krontech.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Network-Control-v0.6.5-1.pdf
See Page 4 : Remote Monitoring via Live Stream
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This allows a 60fps Livestream to Software like VLC Player.
I have no Idea, if that would work on Phones, but cant see why it wouldnt, given the Right Playback Software?
Requires some Form of Network Connection, which, if i am not Mistaken can be Established via USB among others...?
.
The Playback has pretty noticeable Delay and is not real-Time, found it to be somewhat unstable, but still Absolutely Usable if you dont have an Dedicated Camera Monitor.
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If you are at the Point of Considering spending 2k USD on an Dedicated Phone to use as a Monitor for this Camera, might as well just buy a decent External Monitor.
That Kind of Money will get you one some Pretty Serious Hardware. About any relevant External Monitor or Even External Monitor / Recorder combo with maybe even a good HDMI Transmitter should fit within that Budget, if it needs to be wireless for some Reason.
.
Should be way Lower Delay for the Image, and a much more Stable Solution in my Opinion.
See Page 4 : Remote Monitoring via Live Stream
.
This allows a 60fps Livestream to Software like VLC Player.
I have no Idea, if that would work on Phones, but cant see why it wouldnt, given the Right Playback Software?
Requires some Form of Network Connection, which, if i am not Mistaken can be Established via USB among others...?
.
The Playback has pretty noticeable Delay and is not real-Time, found it to be somewhat unstable, but still Absolutely Usable if you dont have an Dedicated Camera Monitor.
.
If you are at the Point of Considering spending 2k USD on an Dedicated Phone to use as a Monitor for this Camera, might as well just buy a decent External Monitor.
That Kind of Money will get you one some Pretty Serious Hardware. About any relevant External Monitor or Even External Monitor / Recorder combo with maybe even a good HDMI Transmitter should fit within that Budget, if it needs to be wireless for some Reason.
.
Should be way Lower Delay for the Image, and a much more Stable Solution in my Opinion.
95
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: September 05, 2022, 06:09:42 PM »
For all the People still having Trouble wrapping their Head around the Shutter-Angle Topic, here is a Shutter of an Bolex L8 Film Camera in Action.
Working Shutter Angle on that Camera when running at 32fps (which at the Time was Considered Slow Motion) is about 166° Shutter, which was Achieved by a Half Disk literally with whatever desired "Angle of Exposure" Cut out, Spinning around that Visible Rivet between the Lens Mount and the Camera Logo on the Front Plate. Exposing the Film for whatever Fraction of time relating to the Angle Cut out Segment of the Disk.
As this general Concept of Shutter was very Typical for Cameras of that Time, and Produced a fairly distinct Look (Amount of Motion Blur), this ~180° Shutter Angle became the Standard "cinematic Look" that has been Widely used ever since.
Lens Mount on that Camera is D-Mount, The Small Brother of the C-Mount we know from the Chronos.
Shot at 2100fps on the 2.1; 25fps Playback.
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW-O5Hz9VOY
Working Shutter Angle on that Camera when running at 32fps (which at the Time was Considered Slow Motion) is about 166° Shutter, which was Achieved by a Half Disk literally with whatever desired "Angle of Exposure" Cut out, Spinning around that Visible Rivet between the Lens Mount and the Camera Logo on the Front Plate. Exposing the Film for whatever Fraction of time relating to the Angle Cut out Segment of the Disk.
As this general Concept of Shutter was very Typical for Cameras of that Time, and Produced a fairly distinct Look (Amount of Motion Blur), this ~180° Shutter Angle became the Standard "cinematic Look" that has been Widely used ever since.
Lens Mount on that Camera is D-Mount, The Small Brother of the C-Mount we know from the Chronos.
Shot at 2100fps on the 2.1; 25fps Playback.
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW-O5Hz9VOY
96
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: September 03, 2022, 11:09:29 AM »
On an other Note, after thinking about it for a little, is this an Actual Paid Production by Red Bull, or did you guys just shoot that on your own for fun?
Just from looking very briefly, it does not seem to be Published on Their Official Chanel on YT (they seem to have a bunch different ones though, maybe its somewhere i have not seen it?).
And because it is very much just an Advert for their Product / Brand, it might be best just to get them to Upload it on one of their Chanels.
They have 10Million Followers, so at least SOME of them Will watch it if the Upload it there i assume.
Just from looking very briefly, it does not seem to be Published on Their Official Chanel on YT (they seem to have a bunch different ones though, maybe its somewhere i have not seen it?).
And because it is very much just an Advert for their Product / Brand, it might be best just to get them to Upload it on one of their Chanels.
They have 10Million Followers, so at least SOME of them Will watch it if the Upload it there i assume.
97
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: August 31, 2022, 01:57:56 PM »
Damn, nice Production and some impressive Shots from the Chronos in there.
It Shows that this wasnt shot in an Afternoon...
It Shows that this wasnt shot in an Afternoon...
98
Chronos User Discussion / Re: SmallRig Camera Cage
« on: August 17, 2022, 02:24:02 PM »
i mean, if it has to be V-Mount and you cant buy the Globalmedia Pro one (there is plenty other ones, but none that i can find offer 19V output apart from that one), you could still do a Little DIY and just build one.
Would also be cheaper (a lot).
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Given you can Buy these Two kinds of Items in Russia (Links as Examples, any Generic Plain V-Mount Plate and Variable Voltage input voltage Boost Converter with a Output of 19V and At least 3 to 5 Amps Will work. With these China Voltage Converters, i would generally Recommend to go with quite a bit more current Capability than you need, and Possibly Replace the Cooler with something more Potent for a Long-Term Serious solution), you should be able to make one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234568815535
https://www.ebay.com/itm/191836713668
If you feel like it, add some kind of Case from Whatever you can get your Hands on.
.
Otherwise, it would probably actually be easier to just get something that Can Output Mains Voltage and just plug the Standard Power Brick into that, if you cant import that Product to Russia.
Would also be cheaper (a lot).
.
Given you can Buy these Two kinds of Items in Russia (Links as Examples, any Generic Plain V-Mount Plate and Variable Voltage input voltage Boost Converter with a Output of 19V and At least 3 to 5 Amps Will work. With these China Voltage Converters, i would generally Recommend to go with quite a bit more current Capability than you need, and Possibly Replace the Cooler with something more Potent for a Long-Term Serious solution), you should be able to make one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234568815535
https://www.ebay.com/itm/191836713668
If you feel like it, add some kind of Case from Whatever you can get your Hands on.
.
Otherwise, it would probably actually be easier to just get something that Can Output Mains Voltage and just plug the Standard Power Brick into that, if you cant import that Product to Russia.
99
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Help! Clean camera sensor (ir filter)
« on: August 06, 2022, 02:05:36 AM »
That depends a lot on how dirty it is.
If you just got Dust on it, it is very easy to clean.
Grease from Fingerprints or any kind of Sticky Stuff is a little more Difficult, but still very much possible.
Scratches and Physical Damage to the Filter Glass itself cant be cleaned, in that case the Filter needs to be Replaced.
.
My IR Filter on my 2.1 is currently fairly Dirty and needs to be Cleaned urgently, is possibly even so dirty, that i have to replace it (some of the Stuff on there i couldnt get off on an quick earlier Try, so i might have to just Replace it eventually, seen quite a bit of abuse).
If it helps, i can Film The Process of doing that and post here.
If you just got Dust on it, it is very easy to clean.
Grease from Fingerprints or any kind of Sticky Stuff is a little more Difficult, but still very much possible.
Scratches and Physical Damage to the Filter Glass itself cant be cleaned, in that case the Filter needs to be Replaced.
.
My IR Filter on my 2.1 is currently fairly Dirty and needs to be Cleaned urgently, is possibly even so dirty, that i have to replace it (some of the Stuff on there i couldnt get off on an quick earlier Try, so i might have to just Replace it eventually, seen quite a bit of abuse).
If it helps, i can Film The Process of doing that and post here.
100
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Recording Frames per second and playback
« on: August 03, 2022, 02:42:06 AM »
So, the Interval between Two Saved Frames will stay the Same, no matter what Framerate you save it at (more on that later down this post).
Question is more, what you use to skip to the next frame, and if that software might have skipped a Frame, which could happen if Settings are wrong or the Software isnt very advanced.
.
Temperature and Runtime should not affect timing of the Camera by any kind of meaningful Amount that you would be able to notice at 24kfps.
As Reference, this site here: https://www.electronicdesign.com/technologies/analog/article/21798809/minimize-frequency-drift-in-crystals
Does Mention, Frequency Drift of Quartz Oscillators can drift up to 100 Parts Per Million from a Temperature Change from -40 to +85°C; which is a Very Substantial Change in Temperature.
In this assumed very Extreme Case, the Drift would mean a Difference of 2.4fps at a Framerate of 24046fps. Or in other words a 0,1% Change in Timing Intervals which include Frame Intervals and Exposure Times.
To counter this Effect of Temperature Drift on Very High Precision Electronics, that need Higher or Much Higher Accuracy than that and cant allow such Drift, the Quartz Crystal is usually Heated (because it is easier to keep it at a generally higher, but highly Stable Temperature than the Environment is expected to ever be, than to figure out how to Heat AND Cool it Reliably to then be within a very small Margin of Temperature), See Crystal Oven: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oven
Given the Chronos is made to run at its warmed up Temperature, and it itself Generating quite some Amount of Heat, it kind of works as Sort of a Low-Effort Crystal Oven itself when it has Reached a Stable Operating Temperature after something like 30 to 60 Minutes Runtime. This is generally recommended Anyways, as a Stable Temperature generally means the Sensor Noise Pattern Will not Change, resulting in A image with Less Noise usually (if Black Calibration is done once warm).
So, if anything running the Camera for a while before Recording anything is a good thing. Should also be the most reliable way to get the Best timing Accuracy out of the Cameras Internal Timing.
If you need anything much more Precise than the 0,1% Accuracy that is to be expected of a Typical Quartz Crystal Oscillator, you very much probably want to Trigger the Camera with an External Signal Anyways, i assume.
.
As for "Max FPS":
You can very much run the Camera at a lower Resolution like 640 x 96 and run any Framerate down to 60fps, which is currently the Lowest officially Supported Framerate. You can Set lower FPS down to 1.0fps as an Experimental Setting, but it is not guaranteed to work properly or at all (it usually does not, but the Camera does allow you to do so anyways).
The "Max FPS" just Literally means, that this FPS most People would usually want to shoot at, is the Highest Possible for the respective Resolution Setting.
There are some Cases, where you would want Lower FPS or some very Specific FPS, like lets say exactly 24000fps, not 24046fps, so you could actually do that if you wanted to.
Question is more, what you use to skip to the next frame, and if that software might have skipped a Frame, which could happen if Settings are wrong or the Software isnt very advanced.
.
Temperature and Runtime should not affect timing of the Camera by any kind of meaningful Amount that you would be able to notice at 24kfps.
As Reference, this site here: https://www.electronicdesign.com/technologies/analog/article/21798809/minimize-frequency-drift-in-crystals
Does Mention, Frequency Drift of Quartz Oscillators can drift up to 100 Parts Per Million from a Temperature Change from -40 to +85°C; which is a Very Substantial Change in Temperature.
In this assumed very Extreme Case, the Drift would mean a Difference of 2.4fps at a Framerate of 24046fps. Or in other words a 0,1% Change in Timing Intervals which include Frame Intervals and Exposure Times.
To counter this Effect of Temperature Drift on Very High Precision Electronics, that need Higher or Much Higher Accuracy than that and cant allow such Drift, the Quartz Crystal is usually Heated (because it is easier to keep it at a generally higher, but highly Stable Temperature than the Environment is expected to ever be, than to figure out how to Heat AND Cool it Reliably to then be within a very small Margin of Temperature), See Crystal Oven: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oven
Given the Chronos is made to run at its warmed up Temperature, and it itself Generating quite some Amount of Heat, it kind of works as Sort of a Low-Effort Crystal Oven itself when it has Reached a Stable Operating Temperature after something like 30 to 60 Minutes Runtime. This is generally recommended Anyways, as a Stable Temperature generally means the Sensor Noise Pattern Will not Change, resulting in A image with Less Noise usually (if Black Calibration is done once warm).
So, if anything running the Camera for a while before Recording anything is a good thing. Should also be the most reliable way to get the Best timing Accuracy out of the Cameras Internal Timing.
If you need anything much more Precise than the 0,1% Accuracy that is to be expected of a Typical Quartz Crystal Oscillator, you very much probably want to Trigger the Camera with an External Signal Anyways, i assume.
.
As for "Max FPS":
You can very much run the Camera at a lower Resolution like 640 x 96 and run any Framerate down to 60fps, which is currently the Lowest officially Supported Framerate. You can Set lower FPS down to 1.0fps as an Experimental Setting, but it is not guaranteed to work properly or at all (it usually does not, but the Camera does allow you to do so anyways).
The "Max FPS" just Literally means, that this FPS most People would usually want to shoot at, is the Highest Possible for the respective Resolution Setting.
There are some Cases, where you would want Lower FPS or some very Specific FPS, like lets say exactly 24000fps, not 24046fps, so you could actually do that if you wanted to.
101
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Rainbow Pixel Noise in Frame
« on: July 14, 2022, 05:05:27 PM »
Hi, This is Mostly Explained/ Discussed here, though the Original Video File that is Referenced here, has been lost to time (As far as i remember it was some kind of Surfing-Type Telephoto Shot with a lot of very small, very colorful looking Water Droplets Moving all around the Frame in front and around the Surfer in a Very Harshly backlit Scene):
https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=244.msg2010#msg2010
.
If that Discussion doesnt quite Answer your Question, let me know, could post a bunch more Links to even More Detailed Explainations.
In Short, use DNG as a Save Format on your Camera and if that still doesnt Work well enough, look into using Different Debayering Processes in Editing.
.
#EDIT#:
Forgot to say, but also make sure, that your Camera Firmware is up to date!
https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=244.msg2010#msg2010
.
If that Discussion doesnt quite Answer your Question, let me know, could post a bunch more Links to even More Detailed Explainations.
In Short, use DNG as a Save Format on your Camera and if that still doesnt Work well enough, look into using Different Debayering Processes in Editing.
.
#EDIT#:
Forgot to say, but also make sure, that your Camera Firmware is up to date!
102
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread
« on: June 27, 2022, 06:11:37 PM »
Found this video, seems like Huston Jones just bought a Chronos, so now you can watch him getting Hurt In glorious Slow Motion:
https://youtu.be/RxK2jHyd-WE?t=1292
Cant really tell for sure, but i assume its a 1.4, so i post that here, if anyone Knows for sure, i am going to delete this and Repost in the 2.1 Thread.
https://youtu.be/RxK2jHyd-WE?t=1292
Cant really tell for sure, but i assume its a 1.4, so i post that here, if anyone Knows for sure, i am going to delete this and Repost in the 2.1 Thread.
103
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Active MFT Mount
« on: June 16, 2022, 01:26:49 PM »
Randomly had the Idea to go through the about Dozen Panasonic Cameras which i Slaughtered for MFT-Mounts (all different models, so i have quite the Selection) and just throw some of the Names / Numbers that are Printed onto the Microcontroller on the Mainboards into a Search Engine, to see what would come up.
Some time Later, i ended up on this Site Here:
https://photo-parts.com.ua/parts/dbphp.php?part=DM
That is surely a Interesting List of Chips they have there.
After some Further Poking around in the WWW with some of the Chip Numbers from the "Zoom Driver" Column of the Panasonic Cameras, i ended up at that Product Description Page:
https://www.renesas.com/us/en/document/fly/lens-motor-driver-camera-solution-lens-motor-driver-oisr2j30516mlg?language=en&r=532816
.
Now i am far from the Sharpest Guy if it comes to Micro Controllers and more Complex Chips like that, especially for Signal Processing of any kind, but if i am not completely stupid, this seems like basically a chip that pretty much handles any Communication via the MFT-Mount of these Cameras? Sure, they have a bunch of Resistors there on the Board before it actually connects to the Contacts of the MFT-Mount, but that Part should be Pretty easy to figure out, when someone can get hold of a Full Datasheet or something (which seems seriously hard to find for all of these Actually interesting Chips inside those Cameras, for Reasons someone would probably able to guess), and a good look at a Few of those Mainboards.
.
Someone Smarter than me please have a good look at this and Possibly even try to find some Full Datasheet / Specification for any of these "Lens Motor Driver" Chips somewhere, and tell me if it actually is, what i think it is. From what i understand, that Chip, if connected Correctly, should be able to take Care of most/ all of the Communication that is happening between a MFT-Camera and Lens, while basically taking Care of Image Stabilization on its own as well as Providing some known State of Lens Focus, Zoom and Iris Setting which it will update with the Lens. There Should then probably be some Pretty easy way to talk to this Chip, and giving it Instructions to Change Aperture and Iris Settings at Need (maybe even Zoom for the Lenses that can do that.) in some Kind of Signal Language that is way easier to figure out (should most likely be well documented in the Full Datasheet...?); than Actually Reverse-Engineering the Entire MFT-Protocoll from Scratch to then later somehow do all of what that chip does already...
[ https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=685.msg4670#msg4670 ]
Some time Later, i ended up on this Site Here:
https://photo-parts.com.ua/parts/dbphp.php?part=DM
That is surely a Interesting List of Chips they have there.
After some Further Poking around in the WWW with some of the Chip Numbers from the "Zoom Driver" Column of the Panasonic Cameras, i ended up at that Product Description Page:
https://www.renesas.com/us/en/document/fly/lens-motor-driver-camera-solution-lens-motor-driver-oisr2j30516mlg?language=en&r=532816
.
Now i am far from the Sharpest Guy if it comes to Micro Controllers and more Complex Chips like that, especially for Signal Processing of any kind, but if i am not completely stupid, this seems like basically a chip that pretty much handles any Communication via the MFT-Mount of these Cameras? Sure, they have a bunch of Resistors there on the Board before it actually connects to the Contacts of the MFT-Mount, but that Part should be Pretty easy to figure out, when someone can get hold of a Full Datasheet or something (which seems seriously hard to find for all of these Actually interesting Chips inside those Cameras, for Reasons someone would probably able to guess), and a good look at a Few of those Mainboards.
.
Someone Smarter than me please have a good look at this and Possibly even try to find some Full Datasheet / Specification for any of these "Lens Motor Driver" Chips somewhere, and tell me if it actually is, what i think it is. From what i understand, that Chip, if connected Correctly, should be able to take Care of most/ all of the Communication that is happening between a MFT-Camera and Lens, while basically taking Care of Image Stabilization on its own as well as Providing some known State of Lens Focus, Zoom and Iris Setting which it will update with the Lens. There Should then probably be some Pretty easy way to talk to this Chip, and giving it Instructions to Change Aperture and Iris Settings at Need (maybe even Zoom for the Lenses that can do that.) in some Kind of Signal Language that is way easier to figure out (should most likely be well documented in the Full Datasheet...?); than Actually Reverse-Engineering the Entire MFT-Protocoll from Scratch to then later somehow do all of what that chip does already...
[ https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=685.msg4670#msg4670 ]
104
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Power supply v-mount d-tap compatibility issue Chronos 2.1 (panasonic fx6/fx9)
« on: June 14, 2022, 07:22:02 PM »
Just figured out, that its actually a Sony Camera, this Adapter is for, there is no Panasonic FX 6 or 9...
Thats why i found nothing at all, but even when looking for the Sony, i just cant figure out any actually official Information regards Polarity.
The Documentation on that is just Exceptionally bad, not only for all the Third-Party Power Supplies and Adapter Cables, but also from Sony itself.
Needed to actually look on YT in hope of Finding some Video that would hopefully show some Angle of the Camera with high enough Resolution to be able to read the Polarity off that Cover for the Power Supply Connector there.
Looks like Positive Tip to me, Screenshot Attached.
https://youtu.be/PJ3WNiP1B5k?t=721
.
Not only that there is never any Info about the Polarity, apart from on that Cover Plastic, i also couldnt find anything confirming its actually the Same Size as the 5,5/2.5mm Barrel jack as the Chronos.
Polarity should be Correct based on that Screenshot.
.
Can you take a Image of the Barrel Jack of the Adapter Cable and the Original Power Brick / Wall Power Supply that came With the Chronos right next to each other, with the hole of the Barrel Jack facing the Camera, to see if the Size is the Same?
Thats why i found nothing at all, but even when looking for the Sony, i just cant figure out any actually official Information regards Polarity.
The Documentation on that is just Exceptionally bad, not only for all the Third-Party Power Supplies and Adapter Cables, but also from Sony itself.
Needed to actually look on YT in hope of Finding some Video that would hopefully show some Angle of the Camera with high enough Resolution to be able to read the Polarity off that Cover for the Power Supply Connector there.
Looks like Positive Tip to me, Screenshot Attached.
https://youtu.be/PJ3WNiP1B5k?t=721
.
Not only that there is never any Info about the Polarity, apart from on that Cover Plastic, i also couldnt find anything confirming its actually the Same Size as the 5,5/2.5mm Barrel jack as the Chronos.
Polarity should be Correct based on that Screenshot.
.
Can you take a Image of the Barrel Jack of the Adapter Cable and the Original Power Brick / Wall Power Supply that came With the Chronos right next to each other, with the hole of the Barrel Jack facing the Camera, to see if the Size is the Same?
105
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Power supply v-mount d-tap compatibility issue Chronos 2.1 (panasonic fx6/fx9)
« on: June 14, 2022, 06:51:57 PM »
Amperes (What is indicated as [...]A ) cant be too much on the Side of a Power supply. It works about like this: Voltage needs to be within the Limits the Camera can Handle, which in the Case of the Chronos Cameras is between 17 and 20 Volts, where 19 and 19,5V are both well within. The Thing about Current in Amperes is, that the Camera basically Takes as much as it needs. As Long as the Power Supply can Provide at least 40Watt of Power. Watt is just Voltage, which is Fixed by the Power supply, in the Case of the one you have 19,5V; multiplied by Current, which in this case will be 2,05A to make 40 Watt. The Power Cable You have is able to provide up to 3 Ampere of current, so based on That it would be able to provide up to 58,5Watt of Power to the Camera, which is probably needed for the Panasonic Cameras it is meant to power.
Imagine a car that can Drive 240kmh, that does not mean you need to drive it that fast, or that it will just drive that speed no matter what at all times. Means just that is the Limit, and it will usually not go much faster than that in most Situation.
.
Most important, apart from the Fact, that the Voltage is within the Limits the camera needs, which is the Case here, the Powersupply can Provide more Power than the Camera needs, which is also the Case, AND Polarity!
.
For the Polarity, do you have any other Power Supply for the Panasonic Cameras this is originally meant for? I cant find any information regards Polarity on these Cameras anywhere, and from this information i assume you would also not be able to figure out if it is correct on your own.
A Image of the Label on one of the Original Power supplies for the FX6 or FX9 would help a ton to confirm what Polarity that adapter cable ist (no Product page for any of those mentions anything about it also).
Imagine a car that can Drive 240kmh, that does not mean you need to drive it that fast, or that it will just drive that speed no matter what at all times. Means just that is the Limit, and it will usually not go much faster than that in most Situation.
.
Most important, apart from the Fact, that the Voltage is within the Limits the camera needs, which is the Case here, the Powersupply can Provide more Power than the Camera needs, which is also the Case, AND Polarity!
.
For the Polarity, do you have any other Power Supply for the Panasonic Cameras this is originally meant for? I cant find any information regards Polarity on these Cameras anywhere, and from this information i assume you would also not be able to figure out if it is correct on your own.
A Image of the Label on one of the Original Power supplies for the FX6 or FX9 would help a ton to confirm what Polarity that adapter cable ist (no Product page for any of those mentions anything about it also).