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Messages - Nikon1

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: High-quality C-mount lenses?
« on: Today at 06:15:18 AM »
I read a bit through your posts on the Forum and looked at your YT and it seems you have a 1.4 and you are doing stuff like Capturing Lightning and such.
 While for the 2.1 i cant really reccomend to go with C-Mount Lenses (at least for your general Purpose Lenses, Macro might make sense with an C-Mount Lens on the 2.1), its completely different for the 1.4, as its sensor is a lot smaller. So for the 1.4 you will find plenty of options.
 I personally own and use a lot of C-Mount Lenses, mainly really old Vintage Schneider-Kreuznach Cine-Lenses for Super16mm Film Cameras, which can produce Very nice Images, but they are certainly not for everyone, as they can be pretty funky at times, and dont deliver the modern look you would expect from modern optics. If you are into very organic and Cinematic image Style, take a look at ebay, you can still find plenty of those everywhere (some became rather rare lately).
 I also own a bunch of newer C-Mount Lenses, and the best of the Modern C-Mount Lenses i myself came across so far are Kowa Brand Lenses. Really Sharp and High contrast, just nice Images they produce.
 As a Place to look for modern Lenses i can Highly reccomend Stemmer-Imaging, they are a big Reseller (or whatever one would call that in English, not a native speaker...) of Machine Vision Hardware and Optics and Carry about everything you would ever need in terms of C-Mount Optics as a professional User, from Macro to Telecentric Lenses, and a lot of other very special glass.
 First link is just directly to Prime Lenses for General Purpose Imaging, second one has allready set two filters for c-Mount and 2/3" Sensor size, what you would want for the 1.4.
 I am not quite Sure, what you define as wide, fast and sharp, but anything beyond 2MP resolution Rating should be more than sharp enough for the 1.4, if you want to make sure, go with the 5MP Rated Lenses, but those are usually quite a bit more expensive. Select Focal Lenght to your Liking.
 Also make sure, to check if the Lenses will work with an C- to CS-Mount adapter. My Kowa LM8HC Lens wont. Rear element is to Long to fit into the C- to CS- Spacer. Can still be used (wont make too much sense, as i have a 2.1 and the Lens is only 1" Sensor size, so it wont cover the whole Image, allready checked that...), but needs a custom adapter, so check bevore buying, if you buy such lenses only for use on the Chronos.
 Another Lens i can highly reccomend in terms of Wide C-Mounts with modern Image Quality is the Azure 6,5mm 1.4 Lens, which i also own. Covers 1" very well (perfect for my Nikon1 J5). Havent seen that one offered at Stemmer Imaging however, only place to get it seems to be amazon, where i bought mine. Also Crazy sharp lens, can send you some Sample images if you like, send me an PM if you want.
 Watch out however, the Azure 6,5mm also has a Rear element which does not fit into the Standard Cs- / C-Mount Spacer.
 Other Lenses usually dont share that problem, but those two are pretty extreme, super wide and super Fast.

I have a Fotodiox adaptor for Nikon and some quite big lenses (thank you eBay) and never had the adaptor go wobbly on me, so it might just be that you have a faulty one?
Yes, i actually also thought about that. Wasnt sure about what Adapter you where using from the initial post, and for some of the Real cheap and bad no-name China stuff things like that could be very well possible, but Fotodiox isnt exactly known for bad adapters or anything. While (at least for me) Metabones is somewhere on the Top end for general purpose Lens Mount adapters, Fotodiox is still on the List of reputable brands for me.
 if you got yours brandnew, you can maybe also try to contact them, and get it replaced. Could at least be worth a try.

i have not owned the Fotodiox or Metabones one of those exact Adapters, but i assume the Metabones one should be at least a bit higher Quality. Fotodiox one should however still not be all that bad and at least "useable". If i where you i would first try to fix the Screws in place with something if you are otherwise happy with the Adapter and your overall setup. Rails and other supports are great for some things, but can and most of the time will add a bunch of Bulk to the size of the whole Camera Rig, which isnt allways what you want.

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Lens Mount for Chronos camera
« on: May 05, 2021, 10:26:01 AM »
 This Drawing shows the Flange Focal Distance of the Chronos Camera body. To determine the correct Adapter Height of an Adapter for any given Mount, use the Difference between the wanted total Flange Focal Distance ( see for an List of comonly used Lens mounts and their Flange Focal distances ) and the Dimensions in the Drawing.

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Camera not turning on
« on: May 05, 2021, 06:58:05 AM »
can you verify that your charger is working? In case that Charger is broken (Power Cut off might have damaged the Charger?), the Battery might be too weak to power up the Camera if allmost empty.
 Camera also could be in "Shipping Mode" for whatever reason, which needs the Battery to be fully charged bevore you are able to even Start it up. The LED on top of the Camera should be Lighting up when charging usually, otherwise i would assume that the charger is broken before thinking there is something wrong with the Camera itself.
 If you are sure that the Charger is working fine, and Battery is also actually ok and fully charged and it still wont behave any different, i would try to contact Krontech about it via their email-Support, as it is propably somehow broken in that case.
 Camera should also work without Battery inside, and only the Charger itself connected, so thats another thing to try out. Just remove the Battery and try booting it up, Battery could have maybe gone bad (dont know why it would though, but worth checking i guess).

Hello everyone,

I did a bunch of test shots with different frame rates and now I can't remember which one was recorded at what frame rate. Is there a way to view that info in the file? I have the files saved as h.264 and the data I see is the playback frame rate (60 fps).

I appreciate the help!

 There is no metadata regards framerate saved in the Footage.
 When saved in DNG-Format (might also be true for Tiff and RAW formats, I dont really use those, so i cant tell for sure), you can at least see the Shutter-Speed, which can give you somewhat of a hint to what framerate you where using at the time of shooting, but there is no Framerate info saved.  With h.264 you dont even get that info, just playback framerate which is basically meaningless if you try to find out recording framerate.
 Now if you allways just use maximum possible Framerate for your set Resolution, you can just look it up in the datasheet or figure it out on the Camera itself, as SergeyKashin allready said. However, if you use lower framerates, like 1280x720p 500fps for a long record time or something, you need to keep some notes of what you shot and at what setting manually or you could just put some info about the Framerate in the File-Name, as the Chronos does allow you to type in a file Name when saving.
 Hope this helps!

I am somewhat puzzled by the fact that you are talking about an E-mount adapter/ C-to-E mount adapter, as the only mount referred to commonly as E-Mount is Sonys Mirrorless Camera Mount, at least as far as i am aware. and that sony-E-Mount cant really be used on a C-mount Camera body (even CS-Mount would be tricky, but at least mostly possible on some cameras)
 Now given the Fact you also mentioned DSLR-Lenses, and the Canon brand, i assume you mean some kind of Canon DSLR-Mount adapter for C-Mount (not a Canon User Myself, but i guess they have an mount called EOS or something, so you maybe mean that one?).
 while i now also dont really know what kind of adapter / brand of adapter you are currently using, i still can generally reccomend the Metabones Brand:
 (German Link, but you will for sure find one sold on B&H or something similar, depending on where you live)
 Only thing to keep in mind, is that this adapter does not allow for any kind of apperture control, unless the lens can do it itself (for example an Aperture control ring on the Lens itself), as most modern Canon lenses require some kind of Electronic connection to the camera/ adapter to do that, which is also why i usually stay away from Canon mount lenses myself.
 I personally own two of Metabones Speedboosters and got my hands on a few of their other adapters bevore, and they are usually very high quality, and i never heard anyone say something bad about them, besides beeing somewhat on the expensive side compard to some other brands. if you are looking for a good and reliable adapter, i would reccomend having a look there.
 Hope this is the correct adapter you needed, otherwise, let me know or upload some images of the one you are using.
 As far as additional lens support goes, most flexible, standardized and streamlined solution would be to by some standard Rail-Supports which are also used for DSLR-Style Cameras with bigger lenses and Cine-Cameras. There are quite a few different Styles and Designs of those, but most of the not too exotic ones can usually be bought for reasonable prices, Professional and Big-Name-Brands can get somewhat pricey quickly however.
 Cant really reccomend a specific one, as they can be quite different and its a lot about preference and whatever you are doing with your camera/ Lenses, to find the best one for you.
 Best would propably be to just put "lens rail support" in your Search Engine of choice and look up some images that come up, and go with whatever you like most, if you actually need additional lens Suports.
 Those Rails are used a lot in Cinema Filmmaking, so i guess thats what you are looking for.
 Didnt sound like you are actually putting the Camera in a lot of physical Stress/ acceleration / Forces, but just a bad quality adapter. but if you do, consider a full cage which fully supports the Lens all around, will most likely need to be custom made for this camera and your specific Lens, but i guess thats very much overkill from the sounds of your initial post.
 For a quick and simple fix of the Problem i can also reccomend to just use someting to secure the Screws with, once tight.
 I seen a lot of People use some Loctite Products for keeping all kinds of Screws from moving, which usually works really well.  Now i never actually used any Loctite Product myself, but i know they offer a bunch of different stuff. You dont want the kind of Glue, that just will fix the Screws in place forever to never be loosened again, but rather the one, which just prevents the Screw from loosening itself, in case you actually need to readjust or even clean something for example.
 Dont really know a name for that stuff sadly, or what it is exactly.
 There Should be different brands of that too, but Loctite is the one that i know of, which has that for sure.
 Now given your adapter is atleast half decent and the problem is actually just the screws itself, this might save you some money and Time if it works.

Chronos User Discussion / Re: 12 -> 8 bit conversion?
« on: March 22, 2021, 08:28:48 AM »
Or is everybody just using DNGs.

 Yes, basically. The Full Sensor Dynamic range is just compressed to whatever h.264 Can handle at set bitrate, if you want the full 10/12 Bit and uncompressed /lower Compressed Footage, use one of the RAW formats or DNG (External eSATA Drive reccomended for about 5x Faster Save times compared to SD-Cards!). Histogram is so far not added to the Cameras interface, best you can do right now is to get an external Monitor which has an HDMI IN and Has Histogram Overlay buildt in. External Monitor helps a ton in correctly exposing your Shots, and has overally improoved my Footage a lot.

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Seeing a pellet in flight
« on: March 20, 2021, 07:01:57 AM »
i assume the Line is from Changing Shutter speed /angle after the Black Calibration.
 To get rid of that line, make sure to set your Gain, Resolution, Framerate and Shutter Angle first, and after all settings are done and applied, do a Black Calibration.
 This should usually get rid of that line.

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Seeing a pellet in flight
« on: March 20, 2021, 01:11:57 AM »
As far as resolution goes, for this shot you could have easily choosen an wider Aspect ratio Image, as about the lower half of the Image as of now is "dead Space", where almost nothing is happenig anyways. So if you went with half the vertical resolution and reframed the shot to only see the now top part where the pellet is flying, you wouldnt really loose any detail from that, while increasing framerate by quite a bit. For Tracking things like those in Flight, a pretty Wide image is usually more usefull anyways than an close to Square one.
 Another Trick to make the Projectile seem to move slower, i see often used with projectile Footage is, to not shoot at an 90 Angle from the Path of flight (Of course sometimes necessary to get an good view of front and back of target...), but to get closer to the Shooters Perspective or an more shallow angle, as now the same Space in Frame covers more real World Distance the Pellet will have to travel, meaning it will be in Frame for longer (and also moves seemingly slower).
 Of course not very usefull trick, if what you are going for is the typical 90 Side angle, but still worth thinking about sometimes.

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Seeing a pellet in flight
« on: March 19, 2021, 08:36:01 PM »
i dont know what lens you are using here, but there is a ton of Color Fringes going on in the image, which take away a lot of the Detail the Camera could have possibly captured here. So maybe stop down (use Smaller Apperture/ Iris Setting, this sometimes goes away or at least gets better with smaller Apperture Settings) your lens a bit or try to use a better lens.
 Even more Important is the Lack of Seperation from the Background. Try filming the Pelet against the Sky, use some White Backdrop where you expect the Pellet to fly or use some Really bright light as a Backlight of the Pellet from the Oposite side of the Camera to give it a distinct outline (Nice Trick if you are low on light, use Heavy backlight to at least have Silhouettes clearly visible, so you sometimes can get away with an overally too dark image, while still beeing able to see whats going on). The Dark Pellet is just not very visible against the also rather Dark Grass.
 Another thing to consider is Shutter angle and Framerate. As from the Motion blur visible and the (for gun stuff) rather low Framerate i assume you filmed this on an Cloudy day or with not too much light overall, which is understandable. But if you want slower, sharper Footage, you usually either need to up your Framerate or make your Shutterspeed / Shutter-Angle Smaller/Shorter (which will make your Frame a lot darker!). This means for some things like that you need to either add artificial Light to your Subject you are shooting or Shoot on bright and sunny days only.
 Most general-Purpose (motion Picture Production and so on...) Highspeed-Video gets away with a lot less light (Still needs Plenty bright Environment to record anything worth showing), but especially gun stuff and Projectiles in Flight require A LOT of Light!

While i know a fair bit of theory behind how this would work, i must say, i personally never actually did any external Trigger stuff on the Camera so far. So, for actuall know-How on an Setup to use, i would reccomend to contact or ask someone who has allready done that, and can tell you what to do and what to avoid. I know clkdiv here on the forum did some advanced External Trigger setups, so maybe he can help you out a bit with this (there are propably plenty other people, but he is the first one that comes to my mind with this stuff).


One of those articles, I could not believe the size of those lights on their little subject! I need those lights! Where on earth do you find ones so large! Wild.

Looks like at least one of them is some Lamp from Arri
 The user julien uses a pair of ARRI Daylight M18 Lights. I personally also own two older HMI Lamps (1200+600W), but they are not useable for anything above 25fps, cause they flicker, you need ones with a Special Inverter for Highspeed Filming. But those, especially these Arri ones are crazy expensive.
 Could also be Straight up tungsten Lamps, like 4kW to 10kW Lams or something, but that would be just a oven at that point and Starts to be a serious Fire Hazard. So because of how close they are with those Lamps, i hope those are Highspeed-Ready HMIs or something like that. Dont really know the exact Lamps they used there.

 Did Some More Research on those Lights in that Image, and seems like they are 10 or 12kW each. Here are some More References for those Lights:

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 2.1 lenses
« on: March 11, 2021, 05:31:38 PM »
If you are Brave (or very Desperate) you can also use this sketchy trick with Nikon G-Style Lenses:

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 2.1 lenses
« on: March 11, 2021, 05:28:27 PM »
 Look at this Post from a while back, the Adapter i Linked there and any other Nikon G-Style Adapter from another Brand will work for Nikon Lenses without Aperture Ring.
 For Canon Mount Lenses its not really easy to control the aperture without an Canon Brand Camera.

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