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Topics - Nikon1

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1
Chronos User Discussion / Camera Cage / Grip
« on: July 30, 2021, 11:04:20 AM »
Episode 1 of Milling an Custom Camera Cage/ Grip for my 2.1 from a Solid Block of 7022 Aluminum.

2
Found another Bug, which i knew about for a While now, but never took the Time to clearly test.
 Now i tested it, here is the Result/ Description of the Bug.
 Test was done on Firmware 6.0, but older Firmware had the Same Basic Problem, didnt test that however, if it behaves exactly the Same.
 .
 So, as i used 60fps or some random lower Framerates occasionally, i noticed, that on 60fps, once you set the Framerate, the Exposure Slider will not work as intended anymore. The Thumbwheel still works, as does the Exposure Slider itself, but once you try to get to longer Exposure Times/ bigger Shutter angles, the UI starts to Glitch out. You can set maximum Exposure Time by dragging the Slider on the Touchscreen all the way up with your finger, but you will not be able to increase the Shutter angle With the Thumbwheel beyond a certain point. Once you are At Maximum Exposure however, you can use the Thumbwheel to go back down in exposure again, but not back up after that. Will still get stuck at the same Point, if you try to get back up to maximum exposure again.
 .
 As i knew that this was showing up on 60fps, and that it got way worse on even lower framerates, but still working fine at 100fps and seemingly random, i started my testing there.
 90fps Still worked fine, at 80fps it was already showing up, so i started my testing there, and tested every whole Number Framerate it would let me set (tried 1fps, but it wouldnt even let me set that, but just freaks out and set 1kfps, so lowest i did was 2fps).
 Now, i know that everything below 50fps is very impractical to use on this camera, and also recently learned that 60fps is supposed to be the lowest officially supported Framerate by Krontech, but as i noticed that there is some pattern to how it behaves, i included it in my test here anyways, as it might provide useful information in trying to figure out what is going on and help solve the Issue.
 Tested every Whole Number of Framerate from 90 to 2.
 Below follows a list with first the Framerate(-s) and the maximum Shutter angle i was able to set with the Thumbwheel at that framerate(-s).
 Test was done on an Chronos 2.1 at Full Resolution, 0db Gain.
 .
 .
 90 to 86fps       working as intended
 85 to 78fps       331°
 77 to 70fps       299°
 69 to 63fps       270°
 62 to 57fps       244°
 56 to 52fps       220°
 51 to 47fps       199°
 46 to 42fps       180°
 41 to 38fps       163°
 37 to 35fps       147°
 34 to 31fps       133°
 30 to 28fps       120°
 27 to 26fps       108°
 25 to 23fps       98°
 22 to 21fps       89°
 20 to 19fps       80°
 18 to 17fps       72°
 16fps               65°
 15 to 14fps       59°
 13fps               53°
 12fps               48°
 11fps               44°
 10fps               39°
 9fps                 36°
 8fps                 32°
 7fps                 29°
 6fps                 24°
 5fps                 21°
 4fps                 17°
 3fps                 12°
 2fps                 1°

3
As has been reported by multiple People here, there seems to still be some Serious issues with the HDMI Output (Chronos 2.1).
 For me It usually worked reasonable well, and recently i didnt have any issues at all. But today i had serious Problems getting the Camera to even output a HDMI signal once, when testing out some Exposure Settings.
 So today i decided it was finally time to have a detailed Look at this Problem and Do some Testing. 
 
[...]
 2. Camera doesn´t freeze everytime whenever i Plug HDMI in. I would say on average its somewhere between 1 out of 15 and 1 out of 20 times it would freeze as an rough estimate, but havent taken any records about it to give accurate numbers so far. Similar to what SergeyKashin is reporting, when it freezes, it most of the time does that also on the next 1 or 2 reboots also, untill it starts working normally again.
 [...]

 .
 Some References to previous / other discussions about this topic, before i get into detail of my tests:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=670.new#new
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=596.0
 .
 .
 So i started with the following Test:
 (Exposure Settings for all of the Tests listed below where 1000fps at full Resolution at 357° and 0dB /0dB Gain also using Firmware 0.6.0 for all tests)
 .
 Test Nr.1
 Monitor used is the SmallHD 502 Bright via HDMI Input. This Monitor was used for all tests below.
 Test was done as Following: Monitor is Powered on, but HDMI is unplugged. Camera is Powered up and allowed to boot up, after the Camera first displays a Live Image from the Sensor, i would wait at least 3 Seconds, then Plug HDMI in. In case HDMI wouldnt output anything, i would wait 3 Seconds, and if nothing else happens, i would unplug it again, wait for another 3 Seconds, and Plug it back in. In case of a "Freeze" of the Camera/ Softlock Situation, i would have to Force power the Camera down. To give it a fair and Reproduce-able result, i have booted the Camera back up after any Freezes and Power it down normally again.
 Sample size was 20 reboots (reboots to "reset" the Camera after Freezes are not counted in this). Results where 20 times no HDMI Output at all (there is a signal, but the Only output is a static Solid black Frame), and after removing HDMI and Plugging it back in a Freeze on all 20 tries, after which the camera wouldnt respond to any inputs anymore, and the Displayed image on screen would go dark.
 .
 .
 Test Nr.2
 After this i did another test.
 This time, i Had the Monitor Powered off, but Plugged in already while the camera was still powered off. I would then boot the Camera up, allow the Camera to fully boot, and also wait for at least 3 Seconds after the Camera outputs the first live Image Output on the Internal Screen, bevore powering the External Monitor on. After each test, i would first power down the Camera, wait 3 Seconds to Power down the Monitor, wait another 3 Seconds for the Next Boot /Reboot. If i would run into a Freeze, i would do the same as on Test Nr.1, and reboot the Camera to make sure i was powered down correctly bevore the next try.
 Sample size on this Test was 104 Reboots (also not counting The Reset-Boot-Cycles for the Freezes).
 Result was 100 "normal" boot-Cycles, where HDMI would work as intended, and 4 Freezes.
 Those Freezes Happened on Boot Nr. 3; 44; 45 and 73 out of 104 Total Reboots.
 .
 .
 Test Nr.3
 As i feel like i didnt quite wait the Full 3 Seconds (about the Time the Camera still shows "No Batt" on screen and needs to switch to the Actual Voltage and Percentage after first Image Output is Displayed), especially on Boot Nr. 3 and 73 of Test Nr.2, i did a Control-Test, where i used basically the Same Testing rules as for Test Nr.2, but would Power up my external Monitor shortly before, while, or very shortly after the Camera would display the First Live Image Output from the Sensor.
 Sample Size was 5 Reboots on this, all 5 of them just worked normally, and displayed Proper HDMI Output Image.
 .
 .
 Conclusion/ Summary:
 While i still dont really understand whatever is going on here, i would claim to have found a reasonable reliable way to get a Freeze and a somewhat reliable Way to get an HDMI output working on >>90% of Boots.
 There is still a lot more going on, and a lot of more testing to be done, because it can be really inconsistent sometimes, but for the described order of operation it seems very reproduceable in terms of Results, at least for my Unit.
 .
 .
 Further Notes:
 .
 There is some other weird stuff going on, i noticed.
 For this series of tests i just Rebooted the Camera a total of 158 Times (a bunch more before i started systematically testing, but didnt take any notes about this).
 During all those Reboots, i noticed that the Camera would just randomly allready be recording right after Boot, while the Option "Auto Record" is not enabled on my camera, and also never was during all the Testing, i checked multiple times after i noticed. This happened 18 times out of the 158 Reboots. While this isnt really an issue (at least for me...), i think this is also not supposed to happen, and i couldnt figure out, why it would do that. Never Rebooted that many times in a Row, so i never really noticed or questioned that, and just assumed i would have accidentally hit the Record Button whenever it happened, but on those tests i was sure i had not, also happened quite often (>10% of Boots).
 .
 On 2 of the Boots, the camera took like a full minute to then decide it couldnt boot, powering down completely, and then booting normally, without me needing to do anything more than wait. One was right after a Freeze, so i would consider that "out of normal Conditions", but the other one happened just randomly between two of the Working Tries on Test Nr.2, so that was somewhat surprising.
 .
 On one of the Reboots, the camera just showed a really glitched out Image on screen, i didnt even bother trying the HDMI, and just restarted, but took an Image of if, see attachment. Never had this happen since i have the camera, but seen someone else post something just like this on the Forum somewhere. Worked just fine the Next after a Restart of the Camera.

4
In Response to the very recent Discussion about Interchangeable Lens Mounts over at
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=656.0
 I have the Honor to Make the First ever Poll on this forum.
 This Poll will help a lot to figure out how the Interrest in different Lens Mounts for the Chronos are Distributed, to focus on the most wanted / needed ones.
 Dont yet know how Polls work exactly, since it is the First one here; but everyone should be able to vote as many Lens Mounts as he wants, which he is interrested in or which he wants to be available.
 .
 Feel Free to also leave a vote if you dont yet have a Chronos, but are generally interrested in the Camera and alike!
 .
 If I missed an Important Lens Mount, please Comment below!

5
As kind of a follow-Up on this Thread:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=608.0
 This New Topic here discusses the Impact/ Influence of Senor Temperature on Image Quality (on the 2.1, dont know how simmilar the 1.4 Sensor behaves about temperature, but if anyone is able to share any Information about it, its also very welcome here), And most importantly on the unpleasent Static Vertical Line Patterns/ Line Noise of the 2.1 in some situations (usually low Light or Stuff that needs to utilize the Full Dynamic Range of the sensor).
 The Old Thread is meant mainly to discuss the More Technical Aspects on how to achieve better Cooling than Stock on the Sensor to get those better Temperatures (Cooler Designs/ Cooling Methodes), while this one wants to talk about the Effects itself, that different Temperatures have on the Final Image.

6
So finally here it is: MFT-Mount for The Chronos.
 I designed one way back in early 2018, a pretty crude one.  https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=123.msg1205#msg1205
 .
 Now The user likevvii made an very useable Design with some Input from me, he wrote:
 .
 
Quote
Here is the file if you want to post it on the forums. Forums doesnt let me upload the image so I have to use my own upload website. I dont have a reliable upload site so it is better if I didnt post it since it may get deleted in the future.

 It was designed specifically to be resin printed.
 
  .
 Is made especially for the 2.1, but should work on an 1.4 as well.
 Metall MFT-Mount from here is mounted onto the Resin Print:
 .
 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GU6OBU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 .

7
Just Randomly came across some very small Server Fans, and that Got me Thinking about the Internal Chronos Fan...
 So, yesterday i took apart my 2.1 again, to have a First close look at the Fan itself, never removed that one bevore.
 The one Built into my 2.1 is a Sunon MagLev MF40101VX-1000U-G99 Fan.
 https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Sunon%20PDFs/MF40101VX-1000U-G99.pdf
 .
 I can kind of see, why Krontech went with that one, since its propably THE Fan in that size that will push Most Air overall, has pretty high Static Pressure and still uses quite a bit less power than other (Mostly Cheaper China-) Fans at the Same Size. It seems to do a great job at cooling the Internals well enough to prevent Overheating even in Conditions that are far from ideal, but it isnt exactly the most silent Fan ever built. i have seen way worse/ louder Fans (Actuall Server Fans), but the one on the Chronos isnt really that silent for general use. So that got me Thinking, if there would be any Fan, that can replace this one, that would be more silent.
 And i found this one:
 
 Noctua NF-A4x10 PWM
 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Noctua-NF-A4x10-PWM-40mm-Gehauselufter-mit-10mm-Tiefe-fur-12-Volt-PWM-L00034/164477012832?hash=item264b980b60:g:frAAAOSwZKBZGLyj
 .
 The Noctua one has 11,2% less Airflow on Paper, but also runs way slower and more silent while doing so.
 The Stock Chronos fan runs at a wicked 8500 RPM and according to Datasheet should produce 31,4dB of Noise.
 The Noctua "only" runs at 5000 RPM and should only Produce 19,6dB of Noise, which should be way less noticeable and also quite a bit less high pitched Noise.
 On top of that the Noctua Fan also uses only half the Power (about ~1W rated power Draw vs. ~0,5W rated Power Draw), while basically moving the Same amount of air.
 However, i dont know about Static Pressure, that isnt mentioned in any publication or datasheet i found about the Noctua Fan, so it propably is quite a bit lower. The Stock fan is Clearly built for High Static Pressure, While the Noctua one is propably more optimised for Silent operation and Airflow.
 .
 Now I dont know by how much the 11% less airflow will increase the Risk of overheating and how much the Static pressure affects the Cooling in this usecase, but i guess the Guys at Krontech didnt want to take any risks and went with the most powerfull Fan in terms of Airflow they could find at the Size, to make Sure to be save from any Overheating issues. And it is indeed Nice to have a camera that will just work no matter what, even if its a little Noisy, but i guess not every user needs that, and quite a bunch of people would prefer a more Silent Fan over basically a gurantee against any overheating even in most extreme Conditions.
 .
 
5. The cooling system is very very very noisy, in a couple of hours your head will be buzzing, as if you are using an old computer from 2000.

 .
 I agree, that most people that use Chronos Cameras for Industry and Science stuff would propably prefer the Currently used Fan with Maximum Cooling for the Size, just in case, and dont really care about the Noise at all, but for Filmmaking and general Use in non-Extreme Temperature Conditions it would in My Opinion usually be Preferred to have the More Silent Fan, if performance is that similar.
 Now i also dont know how many different Fans where tested when designing the Cooling solution for this Camera, if at all, or if you Krontech guys just took that fan and went with it (which is completely understandable and also absolutely fine, cause if it works very well, why change it...), but i think it would be realy nice to have The option to buy the Camera with this way more silent Noctua Fan, or even make it the Standard Fan, used for all the Cameras (Next Batch/ Revision maybe, pretty sure you allready have the parts (including the Fans) ordered /shipped/ laying around for the current or even also next Batch of Cameras), unless there is a Reason why this Fan wont work for what ever Reason. I am Aware, that the Noctua one costs like 3x to 4x as much as the other one Costs, but the 10 to 20$ more wont add that much to the overall Price of the Camera, and i am sure about everyone would be willing to pay the extra few $, if its more silent and still does the Cooling well enough.
 .
 Still cant Say anything for sure, but i ordered one of those Noctua Fans today, we will see how it does when it arrives. I Expect it to do more than well enough for the Average user in terms of cooling, while beeing way more Quiet and a way less distracting sound overall. 
 .
 For anyone Who wants to also Try this and Swap their Fan against one of those:
 The Fan can be Removed and put back in without removing the sensor Board. I would Highly reccomend to NOT remove the Sensor Board, unless you need to for a bunch of different Reasons, which i wont explain here. It needs a bit of fumbling around, but you can get the Fan out there and back in there without unscrewing the Sensor board. Also, while it should be pretty obvious, i am still going to mention it here; this and Simmilar Modifications will pretty sure void your Warranty, so, if Warranty and Stuff is important to you, make sure to inform yourself if it will void Your Warranty bevore attempting anything like this.
 .
 I will keep this updated when the Noctua Fan arrives and i get around to put it in there and do a bit of testing. Feel Free to Share your opinion about this here in this Thread, or your experience if you allready did anything with your Fan/ Airflow. Also if anyone else has an even better idea of what Fan to use, please put a link here. But keep in mind, it has to be 40x40x10mm, bigger wont really fit in there.

8
Has anyone yet messed around with the Cooling solution on the Sensor? 1.4 or 2.1?
 I am currently thinking about Replacing the Stock Aluminum Sensor Heatsink with Copper on my 2.1, which should allow for noticeable better Cooling performance on the Sensor itself.
 Would be interresting to see if that would help with noise.
 Allready took all the needed Measurements for the Heatsink block today, and also managed to get some 30x10 Copper Bar Stock.
 So, anyone got any ideas about this whole thing? Things to test to figure out performance differences or details to keep in mind for a project like this?
 If anyone from the Krontech team, who has access to the Blueprints and actuall Measurements could confirm if my measurements are about correct, would be also very nice.

9
I was just Testing a bunch of gain settings to try to figure out a good and propperly reproduceable way of comparing Noise performance on the Chronos 2.1 for a possible personal future Project, comparing Noise vs Sensor Temperature with different Cooling on the Sensor.
 While i did that, i came across a bunch of Gain Settings, that wherent working at all. So i decided to just test them all. For the Sake of time and my sanity, i limited myself to test just the Preset Resolutions at Max. framerate and maximal exposure time. Full list of the Test Results is attached as Excel List, small part of the list is also posted as screenshot. Testing setup was as follows: Resolution was picked, Black Calibration was done for every single Setting, for the ones that Failed i did at least two to 5 Tries at a Black-Calibration. Result was then written down. All testing was performed after allowing the camera to warm up for more than an hour, and the Camera was pluged into the Power adapter the whole duration of the Testing. This is not an test about image Quality, just to see if its even working at all, and surprisingly many of the Gain-Resolution-Framerate Combinations (especially High framerates + High gain, which would be really, really good to have for stuff that doesnt need to look particularly good, but you have to see them Anyways and dont have a ton of light to work with for some Reason) from the Presets wont work.
 .
 So now, after seeing those results, i wonder, if this is just some mistake on my side (results are VERY reproduceable on my camera, so i doubt that), something wrong with my unit, or an Actuall Bug in firmware. Can someone Confirm the results i got from my test on his camera? please also post if you get completely different results, or have to add any weird bugs like this to this List. I guess there are many more settings which are pretty glitchy, but i think the Preset ones are propably the most used ones, and because of that the most important. Also noticed there are about as many Bugs for Really low framerates and some Custom Resolutions, but didnt want to also test that today, if i do any more Testing like this, i will propably also post it here or start another thread, if its too much off topic to be included here.
 .
#EDIT: Removed the Partial Screenshot from the List and Replaced it with an Screenshot of the Complete List. Screenshot is a bit broken at the bottom, Excel seems to not like huge resolution Monitor setups, but should still be readable.
 .
 #EDIT: My Browser also freaks out when trying to display that long image, and wont display it completely, so maybe just download it to view it, if your Browser wont display that correctly also, or look at the Excel file.


10
Not too long after i got my 2.1 i unfortunately allready managed to drop it from about 1.1 Meter (should be somewhere around 3.5 feet) straight onto concrete floor. Guess i got really lucky, since the only thing that got serious damage happened to be the BNC-Jack. The BNC must have been the Point it fell on first, then bounced around a bit. Apart from the BNC now beeing badly bent and unuseable, the Camera itself just got a few minor scratches and surprisingly still worked fine as if nothing had happened. At the time when i dropped it, i had an 12mm f/1.3 C-Mount lens mounted for trying out a bit of 2100fps, and lens Cap was on at that moment. Lens also went completely un-damaged, only the Lenscap got a small scratch. Still love the C-Mount mounting option, guess most usual Bajonet mount Lenses could have propably snapped off at the mount, just from the Impact. Since i didnt use the BNC back then anyways, i just left it like this. But recently, i wanted to repair it and get it working again. So i did, and i was able to succesfully replace it. Posting my experience with this repair and the replacement Part i used, here to help anyone out that might have to replace his also.

11
Chronos User Discussion / How does the Color Matrix work?
« on: September 10, 2020, 02:10:45 PM »
Has anyone some Experience with the Color matrix inside the Chronos White Balance menu?
 I kind of found out how it works, that it basically is a RGB to RGB Remapping Lookuptable for the Sensor data. The only thing i can find about it is some Asian App, which aparently uses the Same concept, but actually has Sliders to mess around with Contrast, Saturation and Exposure, which the Chronos lacks, and setting this Look-Up-Table/ Color Matrix by trial and error is not just frustrating and very time Consuming, but almost impossible to do propperly without messing something about your colors up from what i done with them untill now.
 So my question is, has anyone done something with the Matrix yet and any tips/ tricks, or is there Any further documentaition on the Topic?
 Also, is it planed to add an slider /value Box for Contrast/ Saturation/ Exposure? Shouldnt be that hard to add, but would make this Color matrix actually useable.
 and, is there any way to save multiple Color Profiles/ Name them? also havnt figured that one out yet. Allways resetting the one over and over by hand seems kind of annoying....

12
Chronos User Discussion / Camera Body Modifications and Warranty
« on: January 01, 2020, 03:10:36 AM »
Question mainly to the Krontech staff:
i just asked myself, how far could i Modify an Chronos Camera body while still not loosing Warranty?
Since it will not void any Warranty if i Open the Camera for example to change RAM, would it be included in Warranty if i just remove the Aluminium Shell of the Camera Completely and build my own?
For Example if i wanted A Tilting Screen for Weird Perspetives and Such.
I mean all of course while not doing any changes to the Electronics inside at all, just a Proper Rehousing of the Mainboard and Display.
I heard somewhere, that if a User Changes RAM Configuration on his camera, in Case of Warranty, the Camera needs to be sent in with the Exact RAM Configuration and Also Same RAM Stick, which it came With.
I highly guess for something like this, this would also apply?
That means Still Keeping the Original Housing, and in the Event of an Warranty Case, i would need to put it Back in The Original Housing bevore Shiping.
.
I Also asked myself, if one could extend Warranty after Purchase?
For example, if i buy an Camera with 1 Year Warranty but after a Half year of using it, i figure, that it would be an Good Idea to have 2 More Years of Warranty, can i extend it?
.
Thanks in Advance.

13
Since i still see so Much confusion about Sensor Sizes and Lenses with the 2.1 and 1.4 Chronos and if certain Lenses Would be compatible i felt the Need to Post this here.
.
I First want to Add, if you need Further Information on such topics, go Visit Sites Like Wikipedia, where someone else already explained things Like that better and more in Detail, than i can be bothered to do here.
Here is some Links, to get you started with finding more Info if you want to:
.
(Some of those are in german. If you dont understand, just look at the Images and use Some Translator, if you feel the need to...)
.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formatfaktor#Formatfaktoren_g%C3%A4ngiger_Sensorgr%C3%B6%C3%9Fen_relativ_zum_Kleinbildformat
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angle_of_view
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
.
.
Also, sorry in advance if any Bad English/ Grammar, since i´m not an native Speaker...
.
.
So, How does all that Work?
There is Different Camera Sensor Sizes, some Historic Massive Large Formats, some More Reasonable Large Formats, The 35mm KB-Format "Kleinbild" which is also known as "Full-Frame" nowerdays a lot. And Then there is everything smaller than "Full-Frame", including most Interchangeable Lens Digital Cameras, Like Chronos Cameras, also a Lot of Modern Digital Cameras from Pro Level Mirroless to Small Sensor Phone Camera Sensors.
.
Most vintage SLR Lenses Around are for the KB-Format or for the Smaller APS-C (a.k.a. DX-Format).
Most Vintage C-Mount Lenses are for the 1" (=Super16mm Cine) ; 2/3" (=Standard16mm Cine); 1/2" (=Super8mm Cine) Formats or sometimes even smaller formats, such as 1/3" (mostly CCTV-Stuff)
In general, with modern Mirrorless Digital Cameras, (including Chronos Cameras) a VERY wide variety of Lenses can be used on any camera.
In Terms of Mechanical Adapting, almost every lens ever made (except for some truly extreme and Strange ones) Can be mounted onto Chronos Cameras if you find a Way to securely attatch it to the camera.
But Sadly, you wont be able to just go and buy adapters for EVERY Lens in a Store, since the Chronos mounting System is one of the most Flexible, but not very common.
.
So, can The Lenses which work well on the 1.4 be used on the new 2.1?

Yes and No...
Depends:
The 2.1 has an Sensor with twice the diagonal size than the 1.4 and therefor four times the Sensor Area!
That means, given you use the Full Sensor of the 2.1 at 1920x1080, Lenses from the 1.4 will not necessarily work well on the 2.1.
But what will happen when you use an 2/3" lens (from the 1.4) on an 4/3" Camera like the 2.1 Chronos?
Well, if the Lens is not Massively overbuilt, you will just get an small image in the Center of your frame in form of an Circle and everything around will be Black.
Size Of that circle depends on the Lens itself and whatever Format the creator intended it to be used with. That is Called Image Circle or Coverage if in relation to an special Format.
.
So, Lenses from the 1.4 Chronos wont Work on the 2.1???
Well, they can be used. But as Said bevore, when the Whole Sensor / Resolution of the 2.1 is used, you will just end up with a Lot of your image being completely black and not containing any Information at all.
That said, things change a Lot if you get into higher Framerates with the 2.1
The Thing is, that Highspeed-Cameras kind of change Sensor Size with Resolution.
.
Does the Sensor get Smaller then?
Well, of course not... physicaly...
But the Camera and Sensor electronics can just handle so much pixles per Second, so, if not all Pixels are Read out, the Camera can do a Lot more Frames Per Second (=Smaller Resolution, Higher Framerate, about same amount of Pixels per Second). And with that comes, that the Pixels around the ROI (Region of Interrest, This term is used on some Other Brand High-Speed Cameras instead of Resolution and in its own way very accurate) are just Ignored at higher Frameratest. That means that the effective Used Sensor Area does in fact get smaller. That also means, that if you make your sensor small enough, the Black Areas around the actual image will disapear.
.
So the 2/3" lenses can be used on the 2.1 but are they usefull for anything then?
The higher your Framerate gets, the smaller the ROI gets. So, if you go far enough with that, even your Wide-Angle Lens on the 2.1 will become an telescope. Thats Where the Smaller Format Lenses are your only way to get very Wide Angle shots.
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So, What about C-Mount Lenses on the 2.1?
The Thing with C-Mount Lenses (and also CS-Mount Lenses) ist, that the vast majority of those are either built for Cinema-Cameras which use (about) 1" and 1/2" Formats and Industrial/CCTV-Lenses which use mostly also 1" and Smaller Formats. Dont get me wrong, there are quite some C-Mount-Lenses that will give Coverage (No black Areas/ Vignetting around the Image) on the 2.1 Chronos, but those are mostly either Low Image Quality or expensive and also rather rarely wide angle Lenses, a lot of them are tele or Normal Lenses, most of them are Prime Lenses (You cant Zoom with those!). As Said Bevore, there are some wide lenses, even Zooms in C-Mount that will cover the full 2.1 Sensor, but those are rare.
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So, what are The Alternatives to C-Mount Lenses On the 2.1
As we Learned, C-Mount Lenses mostly come for Formats Like 1" and 2/3", which is perfect for the 1.4 Chronos, but there are not tooo many Options for anything except Tele-Lenses for 2.1 Chronos, since it has an much bigger sensor.
So, Alternatives?
Well, there is, as Mentioned in the very beginning, vintage SLR-Glass and also Modern Glass for Modern Interchangeable Lens Cameras.
For the Most Popular Mounts you will find Adapters to C-Mount.
For Example Nikon-F-Mount to C-Mount adapters and Pentax-K-Mount to C-Mount adapters and some Other SLR- /DSLR- Mounts. Those will allow you to put for Example the wide Range Of Nikon Glass on your Chronos via the CS-Mount in the front of the Camera.
Be carefull though, some of the More Modern Lenses, such as Nikon-G-Style Lenses need an Adapter which is able to control the apperture, older Lenses will work with an more Simple Adapter.
In general all Vintage SLR- and DSLR- Lenses will cover and Fit both Chronos Cameras with no Problem as Long as An Proper Adapter is used.
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Well, it is very nice for you, that you have an insane Lighting Setup, but what do i do? SLR Lenses Are not that Fast...!
Once Again, with Old SLR- and DSLR- Glass we run into an other Problem. There are a Lot of Fast (Big Apperture, gives an Nice bright image and beautiful background blur, also you can shoot in "darker" (=normal Lit) Places) Portrait Lenses, but once you try to get an wide angle Lens, they are not that Fast anymore.... Most of those Super-Ultra-Wide Lenses (on the 2.1 or 1.4 those become Normal Wide Lenses) are not that good for Low Light or Fast Framerate Shooting or get *pretty* Pricey fast.
So, there is more Modern Glass, for DSLR´s, Especialy for the APS-C Formats which is wider and Faster, while still being kind of affordable....
Still depends, those Lenses Will get you somewhat wide Angles at Reasonable Aperture, but still not that Fast and wide. If you want to go Fast, you are Still Stuck to using Primes.
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But i Want the Best Possible Lens, Wide And Fast, for the Full Sensor, also i NEED to Zoom!
Well, if you want to go Wide and/ or need an (actualy) Fast Zoom, there is almost no way around Modern Day Glass from Mirrorless-Camera systems.
Sadly quite some of those Lenses (MFT-Mount, Panasonic and Olympus Autofocus Lenses for examle) require rather Complex electronics inside of Camera or an adapter to work properly and are Therfor pretty hard to adapt.
But there are also a wide variety of Lenses that are Completely Manual, those dont need anything but an Mechanical Adapter. Also there are a Number of "Speed-Boosters" "Lens-Boosters" "Lens-Turbos" and so on, which will convert your somewhat good DSLR-Zoom-Lens into an really fast Zoom Lens, and also lets you get those Wide angels!
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That sounds Great, so, why isnt everyone allready doing just that?
The Most Compareable Format for the 2.1 Chronos would be The Digital Micro 3/4" Format and the Micro Four Thirds = MFT Mount. Those Lenses Can Be used On the Chronos, i tested that with NiNeff from The Forum a while Back with the 1.4 and an Selfmade Adapter, but there is no Adapter comercialy Available at that Point in Time sadly. Tesla500 = David in 2018-02-01 stated that he wants to make and Sell Adapters for MFT-Lenses and Speedboosters to Mount on the Chronos but i Guess he had too much to do with actually developing his cameras and stuff. I Posted An 3D-Printable MFT-Mount / Adapter for the 1.4 once, but cant find my own Post anymore, maybe need to Repost that. If someone Finds the Post, please Leave a Link below. Basicaly just find someone who knows stuff and can build you an Adapter if that is what you need. About as good as it gets would be the Speedbooster MFT Ultra 0.64x From Metabones, but that thing aint cheap...
I come quite some Way since i Posted that 3D-MFT-Mount (Btw. i never got any Feedback on that thing, so if someone actually tried this adapter, please Leave some Comment, so others will know if it works... it is built for the 1.4 but should also work on the 2.1, if it works at all. My Homemade Version worked at Least, and that one was built to the Same Specs, but with an Nikon1-Mirrorless Mount) and can now build an Proper Adapter from Metal for Myself, when i finaly get my 2.1.
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#EDIT: Found the Link for the 3D-Printable Mount, which i posted some time Earlier. It is to be found in this Topic here:
http://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=123.msg1205#msg1205
/EDIT#

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Will maybe post some More Images to Explain the Topic Further if i am in the Mood.


14
Chronos User Discussion / Chronos Meetup Germany
« on: February 27, 2018, 07:02:34 AM »
Since i realy want to test stuff bevore i buy it, and you wont find an Chronos in your small town´s Electronics Shop yet, i wanted to ask the Forum:
Is there somone in Germany (preferably South of Germany) who would let me come over to him and test his Chronos and let me play around a bit.
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I have a Nikon 1 System and realy like those high Framerates.
So i am Looking for a Upgrade.
I also got a lot of Lenses, that should fit the Chronos quite well.
I would like to compare the Nikon J5 with the Chronos, maybe Posting Results here.
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Some Time ago (Like 2 Month) i went to a big German Company, who sells Highspeedcameras, starting at 15.000€ or More.
I got about 3 Hours to test my J5 against that 26.000€ Camera and was glad i did that.
Because i was pretty disapointed from that camera.
That Camera did FullHD @5000 Fps, and 35.000 Fps @144px Vertcal Resolution which is impressive, but you will need always a massive Powersupply and a PC to control it.
And it has kind of poor Dynamic Range and Light Sensitivity.
I expected WAY more at that Price Point.
If someone Is interrested, just message me, i will upload that test.
So i realy want to test that Camera, bevore i buy it.
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I think, the Chronos will fit me well Specs-wise but i am realy interrested, what the expirience of using it myselfe would be, and how it would perform with my Cine-Lenses.
Also I want to see how the Chronos would hold up to the J5. While The Chronos will beat the J5 in terms of Framerate and Resolution, i want mainly see how about Colors, Dynamic Range and Sensitivity, since the J5 has some serios Dynamic Range.
I wrote all this to David Kronstein, an he said, that they have some High Dynamic Range Mode for the Chronos coming, planed for sometime this Year.
Looking forward to this.
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So if there is Someone in Germany, who would let me come over to him, please message me somehow.

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