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Messages - Nikon1

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1
but much worse for no is that i cant trigger it remotely anymore.

any ideas. thanks.
If nothing else helps, maybe try a complete new Installation of the Firmware on a Spare microSD card and keep the old one you are using right now around just in case.

2
You could also try to hook up the LED and run the camera at like 1000fps and play with the shutter-Angle.
 Should be effectively a dimmer, as the Signal is Basically a PWM Square-Wave.
 Quick Demonstration as Video Attached at 1000fps.

3
Shutter does in fact very much matter!
 Problem with 3 FPS is, that the Chronos with current Software does not really allow you to change the Shutterspeed /-angle via the Thumb wheel for low Framerates. starts to be a Problem at like 60fps, where you wont quite be able to go all the way up to 359° Shutter, unless you use the Touchscreen controls and push that slider all the Way up. Allows you to lower the Shutter angle with the Thumbwheel from 359° back however. Gets way worse with super Low Framerates, and the Thumbwheel becomes basically unusable at 3fps and alike. Use the Slider on the Touchscreen when you for some reason use or have to use THAT low FPS Settings. Already told the Guy at Krontech about this UI Glitch / Bug, and they will have a look at it.
 .
 So now back to WHY the Shutter does matter.
 As you can see in the Footage i posted (compare 180° and 58° at 60fps!), The Signal corresponds to Exposure Time and will only give a signal for the time it is actually exposing.
 i think if you set it to 3fps, default Shutter-Angle is set to 1° for some reason. Now lets think about what happens here. you have the 1/360s Part of 1/3s "on-time" where you are basically exposing. Which will result in an Exposure time of 1/1080s or 0,926ms, which is a damn short bit of time. Depending on how responsive or slow the LED is (also needs *SOME* time to light up and go dark again, still faster than a Tungsten Bulb, but it isn't immediate!), that will be really hard to see, even if you have really good eyes. at the very least it probably would be quite dim if visible at all.
 .
 As i already said, i highly recommend you to try again with 180° Shutter, if you want to try the LED at 3FPS as a visual Indicator (or just use a Oscilloscope if available).
 .
 .
 About the Trigger via BNC, while i played around with Triggering Externally, i havent really used it so far apart from testing. Only got an issue once or twice, but that could easily have been me not knowing what i am Doing, all the other times worked ok for me. So maybe someone who used BNC Triggers more than me can help here or give some comment, if this tends to be an common Issue or something.

4
So i just tried on mine, does behave very much as i would expect it to by just selecting the "Frame Sync Output" option on the BNC I/O Selection Menu.
 Tested some Random FPS/ Shutter-Angle Settings, and connected it to my Trusty Hameg HM 412 Oscilloscope (easy enough with just an BNC Cable  ;) ).
 Shot some bit of Footage of that Test, and tried to include a Shot of the Camera I/O Settings, as well as the Recording Settings and Oscilloscope Settings for each test for a bit of reference to voltage and Timing.
 Tested on 3fps, 60fps (Shorter and Longer Exposure), 10kfps.
 all work fine for me.
 .
 Only advise i could give right now would be to compare your settings to the one i used there and try again, those worked for me.
 I also dont know what LED you are using, and what kind of output current this output is meant for, but if you use a too Powerfull LED, some Current Limiting circut could kick in, and output would always stay low (Overcurrent maybe looks like short circut for the Camera, so its always low). Oscilloscope obviously doesnt draw any substantial current, so voltage-wise the Signal is sure there on mine. If that turns out to be the Problem, maybe add some kind of Pre-Amp to it like some OP-Amp Circut, so the OP-Amp would provide the Current needed for whatever you want to drive with that signal, if you want to be sure.
 Maybe a completely wrong guess from my side, but worth mentioning.
 .
 Also in case you where not aware, shutter angle does affect the Output signal, so if your test is running at whatever FPS (lets assume 3), and your Shutter angle is set to 1° or 359°, your LED would then either be basically off or on the Whole time, and i dont know if the Hi/Lo indicator on the I/O-Settings-Page would even care to change for that short bit of time. Just FYI. if you didnt so far, try again with 180° Shutter.
 

5
Software Dev / Re: Image Based Triggering?
« on: June 14, 2021, 06:47:07 AM »
This is currently discussed in this other thread here also:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=620.0

6
Software Dev / Re: Will there ever be a 100,000 FPS version again?
« on: June 07, 2021, 04:24:13 PM »
Decisions are Decisions i guess, but is there still any way for me as an user to get around that minimum Resolution limit (which, from what i understand is the only thing, apart from internal Timing at some point ofc, keeping it from beeing able to record way higher Framerates)?
 .
 Like modifying the firmware on my own or something? And i mean me as someone who cant really do programming or stuff.
 To at least run it on an experimental Level. I assume nobody actually using the top end Frame-Rate Options or even those "extended" Framerate-Options like the 100k one would expect Cinema-Level Quality from that kind of footage, but sometimes you are just at a point, where every bit of fps are helpfull to see whats happening at all, even if it looks ever so bad...
 I also got asked very recently to shoot some stuff, at which, when you do the Math, even the 24k max FPS on the 2.1 will give you like 1 Frame of actual action if you get lucky or you even miss it completely. Image Quality doesnt matter at all for this, just trying to figure out whats going on.
 So for things like that, even a bit more Framerate would help a lot, even if i had to actually go and modify the Firmware myself, as long as its somewhat reasonable and doable for an average dude who isnt a Programmer.
 So is there ANY way to do that?

7
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: June 06, 2021, 04:32:30 AM »

Something that's a bit different for this update is that you'll need to create an sd card image. We're having some issues with the package server, so the Util->Storage->Apply Software Update via network will not work for this update, but I still wanted everyone to have it instead of waiting for me to fix it. I'll come back and post when this update is also available via network update.

See http://debian.krontech.ca/manualBuilds/ for the update file, checksum, and a PDF of the release notes. Also contained in the PDF are instructions on how to update, and how to calibrate your camera, so hopefully that works as a start-to-finish guide for everyone. Please let me know if anything is unclear.


 .
 Reread the first post in this thread from sanjay, for 6.0 you need to do an manual update. They wanted to fix it, so automatic updates would work, but i guess they didnt yet do that, so you still need to manually update it.
 Hope this works for you.

8
Happy to hear, that this worked out for you and you found a good solution!
 I can feel you with the weight thing...
 I attached a external Monitor to mine and use it with a Speedbooster and Full-Frame Lenses, which adds up to a decent bit of weight as well. Will have to figure out how to attach a Camera strap to it at some point, to carry it around the Neck, as it does indeed get pretty heavy fast. My issue isnt shooting itself, but more holding it in one hand at the Built-In Grip when walking around for 5 to 15 Minutes or something.

9
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Lens Mount for Chronos camera
« on: June 04, 2021, 03:23:42 AM »
Thanks for the information!
 Are there any images yet of the finished product(/s)?
 All the Actual images so far still look like a fairly makeshift prototype sort of thing.
 I am considering to get myself a MFT adapter, i am currently using one i made myself completely from Scratch, even the mount, but this was just thrown together really quickly, and so it is just a Friction mount on the Bajonet without any locking feature. Made it fairly precise, so lenses will not come loose during use, and so far it worked well enough, but still very concerning for me, everytime i use it near Water or high up, even though it is actually very save.
 As i allready shared on the forum a while ago, i am also building a number of adapters, including the MFT one for personal use. However, i still didnt manage to find time to finish it, currently its like 1/4 done or something like that, too much other stuff to do rn.
 So if the MFT adapter is of decent quality i am well willing to buy it at that price, as it sounds reasonable for a good quality adapter, and i realize what making one costs in small numbers.
 But from all real product images so far i wasnt really impressed, and think i can build myself a better one.
 For now i will hold back from ordering one, until i can get an idea of the quality and precision of the Build-Quality. Maybe someone can post images or some kind of review, once those are actually shipped out.
 Might buy one if the quality seems convincing enough, and i didnt mange to get mine done untill then.
 .
 Still wondering if the Backfocus-Issue was solved.

10
Software Dev / Re: Will there ever be a 100,000 FPS version again?
« on: June 04, 2021, 02:49:43 AM »
Found one Reference to that version here, seems like you are looking for this version here:
 
"The shutter speed can be set regardless but the issue is the amount of light required. David said figure 7 Lux per FPS. I presume that’s at 360 deg shutter so even way more light at higher shutter speeds. As long as the file remains on github, you can use it. Download it now and save it in anticipation of getting a camera. I’ll check and confirm tomorrow."

Thanks.  I reread this thread and it looks like the Voyager release on 3/31/2020 supports a minimum vertical height of 32.  I'm not sure, but I think that corresponds to a 109,000 fps when the horizontal is 320 or maybe it is 336.

 . https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=531.msg3236#msg3236
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=531.msg3250#msg3250

11
Software Dev / Re: Will there ever be a 100,000 FPS version again?
« on: June 04, 2021, 02:29:15 AM »
as the 2.1 sensor seemingly also can handle way more than the current maximum Framerate, i also wonder, if there will ever be any way to make use of that, at least partially. from what i understand, the problem is mainly h.264 Codec having problem with extremely small resolutions and needing to add Black "background" / Bars to top and bottom of the Frames. At least for the 2.1, dont know why it was removed for the 1.4.
 .
 If you happen to know the exact version of Firmware, you could post it here, maybe someone still happens to have it somewhere and can share it. I usually keep a bit of an archive of all the versions i use, just in case. But since i only got mine like a Year ago or something, i dont think i have versions that go all that far back to where you need it, but i think i might not be the only one who does that.
 .
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=463.0
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=480.0
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=94.0
 .
 .
 #EDIT#: Forgot to put the Links...

12
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Lens Mount for Chronos camera
« on: June 04, 2021, 02:12:43 AM »
Ready option
I still cant quite figure out, if this means, that those adapters are now commercially available, and if so where to get them or at which price.
 Cant really tell, but those images look like a Canon mount i guess?
 I am not able to find any further information about this on the robolt.es website that is linked (i am sadly not fluent in spanish.... and there isnt even an option for english, as far as i can tell) or anywhere else really.
 So is this planed to be sold as an regular product at some point, and will Mounts Like MFT be available? If so, When aproxmately?

13
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: June 04, 2021, 01:32:46 AM »
just randomly came across this video, has some footage in it, and also shows a bunch of Behind the Scenes of using a 2.1 for everyone who never got to use one so far, here is the Link:
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqZjxT2XaHo

14
General high-speed discussion / Re: Video editing software
« on: June 02, 2021, 05:50:21 AM »
Also what video editor have you used to merge the whole video? I know there're plenty of softwares, but a great number of them destroy the quality so much...
What? Which ones? Most (at least half way decent, and yes, also the Plenty of free ones) ones are able to export in high quality or even Uncompressed (which of course will result in an Huge File usualy, depending on length of whatever you export. Make sure your PC can play those back, if you try to use uncompressed formats, as they can be pretty demanding in terms of Hardware needed for Smooth playback) Quality. If your Editing software outputs bad quality files, check your Settings for Export (or whatever the specific Software calls those). Usually increasing Bitrate by quite a bit should help with quality, if you are using compressed Formats like .mp4 or anything else H.264/ H.265 / Quicktime /ect.
 If that still isnt High enough Quality, try to change export File Format/ Codec to an Uncompressed/ Less Compressed Format/ Codec.
 In terms of Bitrate for .mp4 Files with H.264 Compression, 8000 kBit/s should be Plenty for FullHD Resolution, even i use less sometims if i need smaller files, like to upload them here.
 If you have a ton of random Noise or glitter or something like that (a lot of fast and randomly changing color and Brightness Information in the Images compared to the Following frame/-s), you might need WAY more than 8000kBits to make it look reasonably good. The Less changes within your frame, the lower Bitrate will usually be enough to result in an Similarly good looking final image in the exported File.

15
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Review of Chronos 2.1
« on: May 26, 2021, 03:43:32 PM »
What i observed while just now trying to intentionally reproduce the freezing issue, that the Camera is way more likely to freeze when HDMI is Plugged in IMMEDIATELY after the Camera first shows a Image from the Sensor on Screen. This for me usually leads to No HDMI Output or blank (Black Image) HDMI Output. If i then unplug the HDMI and Plug it back in, this will be followed by a almost guranteed freeze of the Camera.
 So could just be me beeing to quick with the Camera sometimes, and the Camera just needing some more time to fully boot up bevore it can handle dealing with HDMI and stuff or something. Will keep an eye on that the next times when it happens again.

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