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Messages - Nikon1

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1
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: Today at 01:23:16 PM »
Thats normal so far, you cant easily see the other Partition on Windows. Only the Small Boot one will show up, but there is an invisible other one too. Does the Camera start up with that card however, meaning, you see an Krontech Logo/ Animataion after a bit and later a User interface you can interact with, or is something along the Boot-Process broken?

2
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: Today at 11:22:36 AM »
did you unpack the File First? i used 7Zip, if you just put the File as is from the Downloader into the Etcher, it wont work.

3
Software Dev / Re: Software support for alternate trigger modes
« on: February 25, 2021, 12:09:00 PM »
The 0.6.0 Software-Update just got released a few days ago. As they have pretty Limited Manpower for Software Development, i assume they put all their time and Energy into that update since this topic started, and the Situation regards the Alternate Trigers is still unchanged. Not sure how big of a priority they set themselfs for Implementing those Trigger Methodes, but i can see, why they would put Overall Image Quality and other Things way Higher in Priority, since it affects every user a lot more and increases Overall Value way more to an Average user, than those Triggers, where you are able to do a workaround with an External Trigger pretty easily, but not with Image Quality. Also most People will possibly never use any of these Options (though it would still be good to have them, just in case...).
 So, even if they started to work on just that; full time/ full Power since the Release, it will propably still take a fair bit of time until this will be fully implemented and ready for a stable release, especially the Image Detection Stuff.
 Also, keep in mind, there are a bunch of other things, that also need to be Implemented, which are supported in Hardware but not in Software yet, which could also be higher Priority than the Alternate Triggers for now.
 .
 In my opinion, i think this can take a while until we will see that available in software. .
 For Audio-Trigger you could try just some External microphone and some Circut that will give a Signal at a given Noise Level, to trigger the Camera, never did that myself, but shouldnt be all that hard to do, and could be a great workaround for now until its available in-camera. Not too sure about accereration, never worked with any Sensors for that.

4
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Newbie Questions
« on: February 24, 2021, 11:37:03 AM »
yes, i feel you, its painfully slow. SSD will be quite a bit faster for DNG, same speed for h.264 however. There is at least one or two threads here about SSDs. Have one, but currently havent got it rigged up completely, so for Short stuff i still use SD, but for Longer Saves i use The SSD where ever possible, speeds saving up by quite a bit. Make Sure to Connect via e-Sata if you get an SSD, not USB,  because USB isnt that much faster than the SD-Card.

5
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Newbie Questions
« on: February 24, 2021, 11:20:25 AM »
weird. Just Tried and noticed that too. i dont know if you use DNG or h.264 (=mp4), but for DNG, this should be able to be corrected in Editing. For h.264, maybe try to set Color Matrix to Custom and the Shown Settings in the Image (leave the lowest three fields alone, that is White-Balance, only the 3x3 Grid of Fields), this will give you a "Flat" Color Profile, allowing you to add more Saturation in Editing later, and this should fix the Pink Highlights. Overexposing is an Issue sometimes at High gain, but at 0dB it should be fine and not produce Pink highlights.

6
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Newbie Questions
« on: February 24, 2021, 10:49:27 AM »
What Gain setting are you using? Higher Gain Settings can cause blown out Highlights and weird Colors in highlights, even bevore they are technically Hard-Clipping.

7
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Newbie Questions
« on: February 24, 2021, 10:19:24 AM »
#EDIT#: Was typing my reply so long, mklinger was faster than me actually, Will still post the Full thing i wrote here, even though he answered most of the things allready, but i think especially some of the Details i wrote could still be very usefull. #/EDIT#
 .
 1. Heavily depends on what you put on there. But i assume most Lenses you would want to put on there Would be C-Mount. As the Camera itself is CS-Mount a 5mm Spacer WILL be required. CS- and C-Mount are Two different Lens Mounts, which happen to Have the Same Thread, but different Flange Focal Distances (5mm Difference, to be precise, CS-Mount beeing the Shorter of the Both). While you will be able to Mount and Use any C-Mount Lens and Adapter directly on the Camera/ CS-Mount, it will result in Problems With Focus. If you use Standard Nikon-F Mount to C-Mount adapters directly on the Camera without that 5mm Spacer, your Entire Focus Range Will Shift. Meaning now you cant focus as Close as usual and Infinity will be reached way bevore the Infinity Mark on the Lens itself, allowing focus "beyond Infinity", which will result in no sharp image at all, no matter what. Also all the Focus Distance Markings on the Lens will be absoutely invalid if used in such a way. Now, this is Less of a Problem with Super-Tele Lenses, but for Normal, Wide or Superwide Lenses this effect can be so extreme that you wont be able to get anyting in focus ever with this Lens, no matter the Focus Setting on the Lens itself. Hope this explains this well enough, for further information on CS- / C-Mount Cross Compatibility have a look at (Still Feel Free to ask, if this didnt fully answer your Question, i can go more into depth about this):
 .
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_mount#CS_mount
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 3. The 2.1 Has a Crop Sensor. At Full Resolution the Sensor Size is 19,2x10,8mm, resulting in a Image Diagonal Size of ~22,03mm. This means Crop Factor compared to 35mm Full Frame (36×24 mm; 43,27mm Diagonal Size) would be 1,964x (at which point you can basically call it 2x Crop). Crop-Factor / Used Sensor Size However Changes if you change Resolutions, so keep that in mind, if you end up using anything else than full resolution and need a Specific Field Of View or Focal Length. This Whole Topic about Sensor Size and How it Changes with Resolutions has been Discussed in Quite a bit of detail here:  .
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=619.0
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 4. Sadly No. I also allready asked about that, but it hasnt been implemented in the Software so far, and i dont know if we can expect one anytime soon. What i currently use, is an External Monitor (i personally use the SmallHD 502 Bright, but other People use a bunch of different ones too, anything with an Histogram and HDMI Will work, if this is the only requirement, there also pretty affordable ones available) and have an Histogram shown there, which Helps A LOT in exposing propperly with this camera, can reccomend. Would be nice if we get some form of Exposure Indication or even Histogram Once, but for now, an External monitor Works out great for me, also helps with focusing, and has a lot better colors than the Internal Screen (also Sharper than the Internal Screen).
 .
 5. Also Highly depends on what you are shooting, how much light you have available (also Lens Speed), and if Motion blur is going to be an big issue. Thing about 360 vs 180° Shutter is, that if you shoot at 360° and Play it back at lets say 24 or 25fps and have something reasonably fast moving in frame, you will get a ton of Motion Blur. 180° Has been used for basically ages in the Cinema World (Action stuff is sometimes Shot on even Shorter Shutter Speeds like 90° to make it feel Harsher and more intense), and thats why it is usually referred to as the "normal Look" when it comes to filmmaking, just cause everyone is so used to it. You can Try this out your own, do some Quick Pan Shot, and use different Shutter Settings or something else Moving. Way above 180° usually feels weird (like Jello, hard to explain), and way below 180° mostly feels "choppy" for the Lack of better words for both of those. Now this doesnt mean, you must at all times use 180° no matter what. Sometimes in Reality, away from some Cinema Film set, where you will Set up for days for the Perfect Higspeed-Shot and Light everything just as needed to get it right, it comes down to actually getting footage in the First place vs. Not getting it (especially Wildlife and Nature stuff, where you sometimes just cant set up lights for things...). So if you need to, there is nothing wrong at all with using anything the Camera can handle, from 1° to 359° if it helps you get the Footage you want. I used lot of different Shutter angles for different things, but actually try to use as close to 180° as i can, if Light and the Overall situation allows for it. Of course, if you Want A lot of Motion Blur (Sparks and stuff like that), set Shutter angle as high as possible, if you want as Little Motion Blur As Possible or ideally none, use shortest Shutter angle your Available Light allows you to use.
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 6. YES! also do Black Calibrations every now and then (if you can), because the Camera will heat up after some time (about an Hour after Start Temperature is VERY Stable usually from my tests), and if you are outside, environment Temperature can also change a bit (Sun Heating the Cam up and so on, Night/Day Temperatures; Wind...), and Sensor Temperature Changes will influence Image Quality by a lot. For every Resolution OR Shutter angle Change, you need to redo black Calibration. If not, a Horizontal Line can be Visible in frame. Same For Temperature, for Idealy you would need to do a Black Calibration for every bigger Sensor Temperature Change. For Best Results i usualy also do A Black Calibration just bevore i shoot anything to make sure Sensor Temperature at Black Calibration is as Close as Possible to Temperature when actually Recording. If you controll it Remotely, it can be an issue, because for Black Calibration you will need to block the Front of the Lens from All Light. If its not possible or convenient to do full Black Calibration every now and Then, because of lack of physical Acces to the Camera, i would at least let it warm up for like 30 to 60 Minutes and Do a black Calibration directly after Boot-Up and One when its warm, after that Warm-up time (You should also be able to check Sensor Temperature Remotely, so if you wanted, you could check every now and then, if Temperature drifted away a lot or something. When Well Warmed up, like +-3° C Changes shouldnt really hurt image Quality much, especially with the new 0.6.0 Software, but the Less Light you have, the more visible it will be.
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 As with the Shutter Speed Question, you will still be able to record Footage (even without any Black-Calibration ever after Boot) without an absolutely-For-your-Shutter-Angle-and-Temperature-Valid Black-Calibration, but depending on how much you are off, it can be more or less visible. As Far as shutter Angle goes, for some Situations, when there is good Light and No Gain Involved, you can sometimes get away with changing Shutter angle without Re-Calibrating without it beeing visible or it just beeing Hardly visible at all. But Best practice is to at least Let it Warm up completely and do a Black-Calibration and do one after every Shutter-Angle Change. If you need to adjust exposure a lot remotely, it might be an better option to find a way to Remote Control the Lens Iris or some Variable ND-Filter, given there is enough light for that, and Leave the Camera set at a fixed Shutter-Angle Setting.

8
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread
« on: February 20, 2021, 09:17:46 PM »
Based on their Lens i assume that is a 1.4 they are using:
 .
 https://youtu.be/4_wOiublGjs?t=864

9
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 20, 2021, 05:16:04 PM »
And here another one from the New 0.6.0 (also untouched, straight from the Camera):
 .
 all Three where shot at exactly the same settings with Whitebalance set to the 4600K Preset (Lamp beeing 4000K Color). I did pan not quite at the same Speed every time, so they show different amounts of Motion blur and Ghosting (yes, Ghosting is visible on all Three Software Versions, seems about unchanged across them, might could cause problems for More Technical / Research kind of applications i assume), but should give a pretty good idea of how visible the Banding can be. Didnt quite manage to record some of the more Extreme Light setting with this yet, but it clearly shows here. As Light and Camera/ Lens Settings are unchanged, this test also confirmes, that there is indeed quite a noticeable difference in Light Sensitivity with the New Software compared to recent versions. the Unstable Build is ever so slightly more sensitive than the Stable 0.5.1 Build from what i can tell, and the 0.6.0 Version is quite a bit darker, like half a Stop of Light or so, or even more. Also Highlights tend to be more Pink when Overexposed, as Bian allready said.
 .
 #EDIT#: Did also shoot the Same thing with the 0.5.037 Unstable Version, but couldnt upload all Three, because Space on the Server was full or something, got an Error Message when trying to upload. So i just uploaded the old and the New Version, as the Unstable and Stable 0.5.xxx Versions looked about the same.

10
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 20, 2021, 05:12:18 PM »
Managed to finally set up three MicroSD´s to test all the Versions. Here is a Test for banding at 250fps, 360°, 0+0 dB Gain; 15mm @ f/0,9 with the Camera well warmed up.
 .
 Software Version 0.5.1 (This file was Run through AE CS6 to compress it from 108MB down to now just 46MB, apart from the Bitrate untouched Footage):

11
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 20, 2021, 04:53:54 AM »
I also noticed some Horizontal "Banding" (or whatever one would call that?) when Overexposed Areas are In Frame right next to dark areas. Dont remember them to be this visible in the Last Version, but will double Check, if i find time for that. I also dont really know, if this is just a Flaw of the Sensor itself, or if this is a software thing. Still way more organic looking than the Vertical Lines from the Last version, but if this could be improoved would sure be neat. Here is two DNGs in a .Zip, from me trying to reproduce this Banding.
 .
 #EDIT#: Forgot to put the Settings that this was shot at here: 35mm 2.8 Russian Lens, 12dB gain, 359° 1kfps

 So i tried to reproduce the Banding in the 0.5.037 Unstable Build, and i CAN still see it there in some Extreme Lighting Situations, but it is WAY less obvious to even Barely noticeable depending on what else is in frame. In fact, i didnt even really notice it was there bevore this new 0.6.0 Software really. In the New software however, most extreme i seen was about 1/3 of the Whole Area of Frame Blacking out (Areas Horizontally next to Large Overexposed Area in an overally pretty dark overall frame) Completely. On the Older Software it at worst just affects Brightness Value of the Whole Horizontal Area next to Over Exposed areas a tiny bit, which is mostly hard to notice, unless you are Specifically looking for it; Most visible on the Older Versions are the "Edges" of Square Overexposed Areas/ the Horizontal Lines that Produces at the Edges (those are still very faint tho). Will Upload some Kind of Comparison, if i manage to get a good recording of that.
 .
 The whole thing reminds me a lot of the Vertical Smear Phenomenon of old CCD-Sensor Cameras somehow. There Was Some really good full Article about it, what is going on and why, sometime ago; but i cant find it, best thing i found about it rn is this Publication on Page 4, where they talk about it a little bit:
 .
 https://www.researchgate.net/publication/315944464_Stroboscope_Based_Synchronization_of_Full_Frame_CCD_Sensors

12
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 19, 2021, 12:26:37 PM »
Given the Fact, that the 0.6.0 now can generate Calibration files on its own, is it possible to export them and use them with other versions, like the latest Unstable Build?

13
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 16, 2021, 12:39:59 PM »
Thanks for the feedback so far, everyone. Below are a few replies to various items:
 [...]


Been using it for a bit now, and i really miss the "Play" Button in the Playback Screen? Is there a specific reason, why it had been removed in this Version? The Play button was very nice Way to view/review footage or to just have a loop playing. Still works with the Forward / Backwards buttons, but is kind of annyoing to allways need to hold the Button down and so on. Would love to see this Play Button come back in future Revisions if possible.  The File Browser /List Files option is Great though, finaly a way to check the Footage Without needing to have a PC right there.


This wasn't removed, but your default preferences were reset, which is why it was hidden again. It can be re-enabled by going into Util->Main, then checking the One-touch Playback option box.


Horizontal Banding: In cases where this occurs, it may help to black-cal a few times, especially after changing the shutter position. Will take a look, and have seen those sample DNGs, thanks Nikon.

Issues with 800x600: I've noticed this recently too, seems like changing the offset away from center moves the position of the vertical stripe. Also looking into it.

Lowered Dynamic Range: This is likely a side-effect of the sensor driver configuration. Some tweaks were made to the analog gain voltages to handle the vertical banding. Overall, we've been trying to work within the limitations of the sensor, and the tradeoff between the banding mitigation and light sensitivity hasn't been trivial. I'll keep an eye out for more info on this thread, as it is helpful in determining which areas still need improvement.

 Thanks a lot, really glad, that Play button is still there  :D .
 .
 About the Banding, just wanting to say, i have seen Some Situations, where it gets WAY worse than the DNGs i posted above, and i dont think Black Calibration helps with that, but will test to do that. I ordered myself a bunch of 32GB Micro SD-Cards to keep the 0.6.0 and an older Version as well as The unstable Build on them without needing to Reflash them all the Time when Changing Versions, so i can directly compare the thing about the Banding there. Hope i get around to test it soon.

14
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Video file straight from the camera.
« on: February 14, 2021, 09:21:55 AM »
I posted some Raw, untouched DNG-Footage here:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=637.msg4233#msg4233
 Managed to Squeeze 154MB worth of files into a Single Post, which makes for about 1,5 Seconds Playback time at 25fps.
 So if you still want to play around with more Untouched Footage, you could use that bit of Footage there.

15
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 14, 2021, 09:18:07 AM »
Here is an untouched DNG Sequence (Heavily Compressed With 7Zip) directly from the 2.1, that shows this Banding i talked about above in Motion. Watch for the Reflection on the Hammer and how it affects the Background. Shot at 0db 1kfps, 180° on an Schneider-Kreuznach Tele-Xenar 75mm/2.8 (was a bit stopped down, not exactly sure where i put the Apperture at...). This Short bit of Footage also shows Ghosting, where the Hammer Moves Fast, there is a "Ghost" Exposure of the Overexposed Highlight Visible, which disappears, when it suddenly stops. The Ghosting was allready there in the Previous Version, and wasnt really a Problem Ever for me, but still wanted to point it out, as i now finaly have footage which shows it very well; but the "Horizontal Banding" isnt that nice, and i dont remember it beeing that visible bevore.

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