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Messages - Nikon1

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16
Different Adapters like The Krontech MFT Mount or MFT to EF Adapters will not change Anything about your Focal Length. only thing that will do that, are Speedboosters or Teleconverters, but any other Adapter will not do anything.
 .
 As for Calculating, do you use a Chronos 2.1 or 1.4 ? And what would be the Resolutions you use it at (cause change in Resolution actually DOES Change the Effective Focal Length on those Cameras).
 I could Try to generalize my explaination, and probably will anyways, but its likely easier for you to understand, if i can refer to the actual Camera and Resolution (-s) you are usually using.

17
For anything else Adapter-wise thats cheaper, yeah, most of them are Pretty bad.
 You probably wont be getting around buying one with Electronics if you really want a decent Quality one, cause all the ones without seem to be considered Budget options and so they Pay a lot less attention to detail and overall Quality.
 Would need to have a look around if you really wanted to know / really wanted to get the best one without Electronics, since its been like 1,5 Years since i last looked for EF Adapters, but its usually been that way back then, and i imagine it has not changed all that much since.

18
You are honestly in most Cases better off just getting a dedicated MFT Lens. Especially if f-Stop and Field of View are of Concern. Native MFT Lenses also usually tend to be quite a bit smaller in Physical Size and Weight, cause they are designed for the Much smaller Sensor compared to 35mm FullFrame Lenses ( Which is not the Case for a lot of the Walimex / Rokinon / Samyang Lenses, cause those are often literally just Full-Frame or APS-C Lenses with a MFT Mount Screwed on).
 If its for a Single Lens, for example a fast Wideangle Lens and maybe some other Fast Prime Lens, going with a Native MFT lens could also be Cheaper than a proper Adapter, especially if you consider buying used Lenses Maybe.
 Getting a really good Adapter makes a lot more sense, if you either already own / have access to plenty EF Lenses or Plan on getting a lot of EF Lenses anyway for some Reason.
 .
 As Far as Adapters go, the highest Quality Adapter i Personally seen for EF Lenses to MFT, that would make sense for a Chronos 2.1 or 1.4 is the Metabones 0,64x Speedbooster with the Cine-Locking Mechanism. This one of course costs Quite a bit, AND has the Electronics and all, but its the only one that will allow you to mount an EF lens with no Mechanical Play at all, cause it actually is Clamping the EF Mount, which no other of these Adapters do.
 Now you still potentially have some Play at the MFT Mount itself, but thats still a lot more Solid mechanically than all the other Adapters, and about as good as it gets.
 The Speedbooster also helps a lot with getting a wider Field of View and getting more Light into the Camera.
 And the Electronics are useful, if you wanted to use some EF Lens with Electronic Aperture Control on there anyways eventually.

19
Hi,I suggest you read this Discussion over here first, as a very Similar Topic has already been discussed there:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=764.0
 If you still have any further Questions beyond that, feel free to ask at any time.
 Greetings!

20
Chronos User Discussion / Re: mounting options
« on: May 22, 2023, 01:39:05 PM »
I mean Smallrig made a Custom Cage for the Chronos Cameras, if that would help, but that does mainly just add a bunch more Mounting-Points and some Mechanical Protection for the Camera.

21
Just wondering, if you where able to improve your Results after all?

22
Chronos User Discussion / Re: mounting options
« on: May 17, 2023, 01:22:27 PM »
There isnt Really any Standard behind the Dimensions of the Camera or the Holes, as in Mimicking another Existing Camera.
 Its Just how big the Camera ended up Being.
 The main Reason for the Holes being there is for Mounting the Camera to a Tripod or other Camera Support in "normal" orientation, Inverted Orientation, like for Crane Mounting or Ceiling Mounting, and the Side Holes are for 90° Rotated Mounting.
 They can of Course be used to mount any Accessory to the Camera that you can make fit there, same for the smaller M4 Holes all over the Camera.
 I Personally use the Top 1/4" Hole to Mount a Cold Shoe at all Times, which is a very fast way to Mount a Standard Field Monitor there, and to break down the Rig in a Short Time for Transportation.
 .
 If you need Lens Supports, probably the Easiest Way to achieve this would probably be to use an Adjustable Riser / Base Piece below the Camera
 and use Standard Cine Rods and a Standard Adjustable Lens Support to fit whatever Optics You try to Mount to the Camera.
 If being able to Remove the Rods and Support quickly is an Requirement, consider to Sandwich a Quick-Mount Plate in Between, like Arca-Swiss or Manfrotto (or whatever else System you might already be using for your Camera Supports).
 .
 hope, this Answers your Question!

23
For Lighting, maybe Start with something, like i did Here for the 20kfps Shot:
 forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=521.msg4950#msg4950
 I Put one of my 300 Watt Lights Right Behind the Subject, because i needed to Close the Lens down very much, to get a Lot of Depth of Field, while also running 20kfps. This of course will make the Subject look very Dark --- Keep in mind this is an Actively Burning Sparkler / Fireworks, so in it self rather Bright Object. But it will ensure you that you will get somewhat decent Image Quality overall and you will be able to See Silhouettes, if that fits your Task; but Details in Texture or of the Surface itself Might get lost.
 That should at least make it Possible to Record a bright enough image with that one Light you got.
 From There you can Try to move the Light to ABOVE the Sample, shining Down on an angle from the Direction of the Air Gun, as close to the Sample as Possible without being in the Way or in Frame.
 Thats Where i would probably have that Light in this Situation...?
 .
 Regards Framing, you can still try to start with some Less Extreme Settings like 5400fps, which will give you a much more Square Aspect Ratio. If the Lights are Set up right, you will still get a lot of Information from that Recording cause its much cleaner and better Visible, and can then decide which Part of the Frame you want to Record at the Very High Framerates if needed.

24
Regards getting the Whole Sample in Frame, would Mounting the Camera Vertically work for you?
 The Chronos has a 1/4" Tripod Screw Hole on the Side of the Grip/ Battery, intended Mainly for Mounting it at an 90° Angle.
 That way you would get an very High Frame to Capture that Sample.
 Is this what you are Looking for?
 .
 Regards deleting the Post, you can just go to Modify Post, then Delete the Attachment and Attach a new one, no real Need to delete the whole Post.

25
Wow, I didn't know that so much light is needed for such recordings. I guess that I will have to place the lamp very close to the sample.

 You would be surprised what obscene Amounts of Light are used for some of these Shots:
 www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4u2xmk5Qys

26
Just For Reference, these Two Videos where Shot at 1000fps using the Chronos 2.1 with about 2000 Watt of LED Lights:
 www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDXXjpdEDfc
 www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpx-hbIz8e0
 .
 This Video is using about 1700 Watt of LED Lights:
 www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4Hnp8zUbI
 .
 and this one is Shot in 2100fps using a Single 500 Watt LED Light, but its VERY Close, just right out of Frame with a Softbox on it:
 www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW-O5Hz9VOY
 .
 For even Higher Framerates you usually would need Much more Light than that, if Lit from the Same Position, if you want to keep the Same Level of Image Quality. Double the Framerate would in Theory need Double the the Amount of Power in Lights, 14kfps vs 1kfps would mean 14 times more Powerfull Lights...
 Because that is usually not Practical, you sometimes have to get really close with your Lights, to get enough Light; like i did in that Bolex Video (was kind of just to Lazy to set up a ton of Lights for that one, so i made it work with a single one somehow).

27
The Website Tells me, that is a 250W LED Panel.
 Its a good Start, but you probably still would have to get the Light Fairly Close to what you are Trying to Record to get it Bright enough at 14ish kFps.
 Try to to play around with the Gain a little, and see if you can get Footage with High enough Quality for Your Needs with that.
 If not, i would recommend getting at least one or Two more Lights with Similar Power (or get some Help from the sun if Practical).
 Can you Provide some kind of Lighting Diagram of the Setup you have with some indication of Distance between the Light and what is Being Lit, Camera Position in Relation to Subject and Light(-s), as well as an Rough Estimate of size of the Area the Frame is Covering / Subject Size? Makes quite the Difference if you are using that 250W right next to something or from 5 Meters away.

28
for Lens Settings, keep it as Wide open as Possible, until you got so much light, that your Image is getting too Bright. Meaning f/ 1.8 for that Lens or the Smallest Possible number for any other given Lens.
 .
 To get the Image Brighter, try using Gain Settings.
 Start to work your way up in that order:
 .
 Digital Gain in steps up to 12dB (analog Gain at 0dB)
 .
 if still not bright enough, Increase analog Gain to 6dB, and work your way up to 18dB Digital Gain in Steps
 .
 If STILL not Bright enough, increase analog Gain to 12dB, and work your way up from 12db to 24dB digital Gain.
 .
 If still too dark, increase the Analog Gain to 18dB / 24dB, and Keep the Digital Gain at 24dB
 .
 the higher the Gain Settings are, the lower the Image Quality becomes, so ideally you would just have enough Light and keep the Gain at 0dB and 0dB for analog and Digital, but that is sometimes not Possible or Practical, especially for the Higher Framerates.
 That way you will get an image that does not look as good, but you will usually at least see what is happening.
 . For the Lens setting, given you have enough Light, closing the Aperture to an f-Number of 8 would also be Beneficial, as you get more of whats happening in Focus at once, but it also makes the Image much darker.
 So, for as long as you are Struggling to get enough Light, you will need to keep it wide open, and only be able to see a very shallow Plane of Focus Sharp at once.
 .
 Regarding Aesthetic Lighting Advice, if you need further Advice / Information about that, let me know I will PM you some.

29
The Camera is very much Capable, but it can do nothing in a dark room (at least not for the Higher FPS Settings).
 .
 Imagine F1 Car in a Swamp... about like that with the Chronos if it tries to go fast but has no Light.
 

30
A lot of it comes Down to Preference and the Actual Situation.
 I Personally like Black / very Dark Backgrounds more, cause they usually Tend to look cleaner, and Overexposing can be quite Problematic with the Chronos (which can be Tricky to balance with Very Bright Backgrounds).
 .
 Then also Depends a lot on the Lights that are available to you, and how they are set up. Given you set it up like that, you can make a White Background look Dark or a Dark Background Look very Bright.
 .
 In the Most Cases, you just want Clear Separation between Background and the Subject you are Shooting. So given enough Light Available, you would typically tend to Light that Subject Bright enough, so its nicely end Evenly Lit (except you are Going for a more Stylistic Look, or have other Limitations).
 The Background is then Kept Darker than that or Completely Blacked out, so you clearly see the Subject and nothing else.
 Especially for Small (metallic) Particles, they could Catch some Reflection or be roughly the Same Brightness as a Light Colored Background, but its Generally very hard to NOT SEE THEM on a Completely Black Background, as they will usually always catch some Amount of Light.
 .
 Now that is of Course different if You are Shooting Black Plastics with a Black Projectile, in that Case a Light Background would in my Opinion be a much Better Choice, but that can be a bit harder to get the Lighting right on.

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