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Messages - Nikon1

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31
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 14, 2021, 04:26:32 AM »
I also noticed some Horizontal "Banding" (or whatever one would call that?) when Overexposed Areas are In Frame right next to dark areas. Dont remember them to be this visible in the Last Version, but will double Check, if i find time for that. I also dont really know, if this is just a Flaw of the Sensor itself, or if this is a software thing. Still way more organic looking than the Vertical Lines from the Last version, but if this could be improoved would sure be neat. Here is two DNGs in a .Zip, from me trying to reproduce this Banding.
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 #EDIT#: Forgot to put the Settings that this was shot at here: 35mm 2.8 Russian Lens, 12dB gain, 359 1kfps

32
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: February 13, 2021, 10:44:37 AM »
just saying, if you end up buying one, especially the ones with bigger Memory options, and end up shooting a lot with it, prepare a bunch of spare Harddrives, you will propably need them if you want to keep the Footage Long-Term ;).  Those Cams Produce a lot of Data...

33
Software Dev / Re: Chronos V0.6.0 Full Release
« on: February 13, 2021, 08:26:33 AM »
Did some tests and also a comparison between 2.1 and 1.4 with the new version 6.0 and the vertical banding is nearly dissapeared.

At the moment the 2.1 needs much more light than the 1.4 and there is somting strange with the video signal level (tested with an external monitor portkeys BM5II). Its not possible to get a video level more than 90 IRE and at lower resolutions the level declines at 30 IRE @ 640x360.

On the other hand the 1.4 allowed a level to 100 IRE and with the same lens and at the same time the level was at 55 IRE @ 640x360.

it seems, that the new software reduces the dynamic range a lot, so that it isnt possible to use the full video level from 100 IRE.

Has someone made a similar observation?

 Yes, can confirm, same for me, allready wrote a bit about it above:
 
[...] 800x600px just looks Broken, Brightest Spots on the Frame Meassure about 50% on the HDMI-Out, no matter how bright i Expose is, to the Point where its even obviously Clipping. 100fps/ Full Resolution and Below also looks pretty rough, Way more Vertical Banding than ever in the Shadows, Mids And Highlights look OK-ish but also overall way lower sensitivity on those Settings overall.
 [...]

34
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: February 12, 2021, 07:07:39 PM »
Even Compressed Footage still produces pretty big files. Here is a Save of the Other Milling Shot saved in h.264 Compression, i posted the same day here in this thread (saved that one as .DNG and also Compressed). While it is allready much smaller, its still a File of well over a Gigabyte in size.

35
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: February 12, 2021, 06:54:58 PM »
For you guys who are posting clips on YouTube, can you post the raw video from the camera too? Or is that too big of a file?
Depends on how much of a shot you save, a Full Memory Save of a 32GB Chronos will have double digit Gigabyte size in the Uncompressed Formats. Not only takes this very long to Save to Memory, also usualy takes quite a bit of time to upload, even worse if someone has bad Internet. Another Problem is where to even upload Such amounts of Data to share this. I guess some People use Google Drive or something else (i dont...), but even there i dont know what the Limits of that are, and if this would be possible or practical thing to do. Here on the Forum, with the 85MB or something File Limit, and a Typical 2.1 DNG beeing around 4MB (just under 3MB inside of a .Zip) each, longest Clip i can upload uncompressed with one single post here is 21Frames (28 when in a .Zip), which isnt even a full Second of footage (Full Memory save of a 32GB Cam holds 11k Frames at Full Res.). Maybe someone who uses some kind of online File Sharing Service can upload some Full RAW video (RAW Files are also usually longer than final YT Clips, to cut out the Part you want to see. You would mostly save more than you need to show in the end, to make sure you have enough footage to cut) or Share reasons, why they dont upload them.
 .
 So best thing i can offer is making like 5 or 6 Posts in a row here and upload a DNG Sequence of few Seconds, but dont really want to do more spaming here, as the Guys at Krontech still need to host the Server for this Forum somewhere, which also only has limited resources.
 .
 So here is a Screenshot of the Unedited Footage from this Milling-Shot:
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=521.msg3975#msg3975
 , and that was only just over half the Memory saved, and did allready fill a 32GB SD up pretty much. So yes, they are Huge Usually.

36
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: February 12, 2021, 07:23:57 AM »
Regular size balloons do pop quite fast. I found them to be a quite good "benchmark" for Framerate Testing or HS-Camera Testing in general. at around 1kfps i usually got around 2 to 3 Frames of the Balloon actually bursting, and this is pretty consistent from all my tests. So the Whole thing is over in about 3ms time or less usually. If you really want to see the Balloon Rip apart, and not only a baloon which is suddenly missing and leaves a Strange Bubble of Fluid or whatever in Midair (which still can look pretty cool), you usually need way higher Framerates or Bigger Balloons, they do Rip way slower.
 .
 Allready posted this way long ago,
 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=140.msg1586#msg1586
 This was a test at a german Highspeed-Camera Company, where i tested an 5kfps/FullHD Cam which i tested against my Nikon1 J5 at 1200fps at full Resolution 5kfps /35kfps Max Framerate with all the Same Shutterspeed Settings on both Cameras (on 35kfps i couldnt quite set shutter speed THAT Low on the Nikon, but still did 1/16000s, which was Shortest possible. Was way bevore the 2.1 was even a thing, and i was not impressed by the Dynamic Range of the Cam at all to say the least, i expected way better (the Thing cost 26k whitout Tax and needed A Powerhowse of an Laptop to even Run, had no Direct video out, only delayed Output via the PC, and needed an External Power Supply), and they actually reccomended me to look at the Chronos  ;) . Fit my needs very well, also happy about the Price compared to that.
 .
 #EDIT#: was Wrong about the Price, read the original Post again, corrected now.

37
yes, Infinity Focus is possible with the Metabones ones. I currently own an Nikon-F to BMPCC (0,58x) and an Nikon-F one with 0,64x Magnification. Looking to also get an Standard 0,71x metabones one myself, because some DX Lenses Like the Sigma 18-35 and 50-100 Wont cover the Full 2.1 Sensor with the 0,71, cause Image Circle of the Lens is too small (Final Assembly has larger than DX-Format FOV!) and the 0,64x is anyways just barely covering the 2.1 Sensor, and has trouble with some Lenses. Both my Speedboosters have a Custom Made N1-Mount to also Mount on my Nikon1-Cameras and will mount to the Chronos with an Custom N1- to Chronos adapter. Given they are Mounted at the Correct Distance from the Sensor they allow for Infinity focus and a correct Focusing Scale on the Lens. They all Physically fit onto the Chronos Camera, but at least for the 0,58x and 0,64x, the Stainless Mount Of the Chronos needs to be Removed, not too sure about the 0,71x one, but could also need to be Removed.
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 5G is quite a bit, considering the Probe Lens is also very long and the Sudden Start and Stop could have way higher G-Forces happening for just a very short moment. Depending on how Long You need the Pointy part of the Lens to be, i would try to support it as far in the Front as Possible. Most Sturdy Support would propably be to have some Kind of Round Clamping part in the Front around the Shaft of the Lens and then four arms to each mount on two of the M4 Threaded Holes On top, Bottom, Left and Right of the Camera Body, while the Mount of the Lens is attached to the four holes in the Front of the Body. If you make the Arms Beefy enough, i assume even a 3D-Printed Support would proppably do the Job just fine and be Sturdy enough, but please dont quote me on that, if it breaks. Savest bet would still be to have an Metal Adapter and Metal Supports, if you Wanted to be absolutely sure.

38
Chronos User Discussion / Re: High Speed Motion Control Slider
« on: February 12, 2021, 05:50:09 AM »
That thing is seriously fast, i like it! Just as an idea for future projects, you could add a Second axis to it, a pan, which would allready make for some Serious Motion Control Setup.

39
yes, for stuff like this, i would highly Reccomend to at least use an Metal Mount, if not even Additional Support with an Metal Mount, depending on how fast you want to go with it. Make sure to test the Kind of motion you want to do over some Thick Padding, so if the Lens Comes Loose or the Mount Breaks, it wont just smack against a wall or the Ground at full speed.
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 As Far as Making a Metal one goes, if you are from France, shipping is not a Problem, and i can find someone In Germany to make one for you or do it myself. Would need to look into it more closely to figure out if it would be worth making one Myself or to get it done by some CNC-Shop, as i only have a Manual Mill. I also plan on making one for Myself fom Metal, it might make sense to order them at once at some CNC-Shop, as Setup Cost for Making a Part like this is usually the Majority of the Cost for only One Piece, which means it will get way more affordable per Adapter, if you order a bunch of them at once. If you are interrested (Or other People from Europa, if we can just order a bunch, they Should be quite a bit cheaper than for single Units), let me know, then i will figure something out.
 .
 #EDIT#:
 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-fr%C3%A4steile/k0
 Here you can take a look youself and find someone to mill it for you, i guess most Shops would also Ship to France if you asked.

40
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: February 11, 2021, 10:30:50 AM »
Kings X fountain Sydney

1920x1080
1000fps
Build 6.0
Shot in colour graded in resolve 16 to B&W
Canon PL Mount 300mm FD lens

https://vimeo.com/511059406
Image Quality itself looks very good, also the Shots are Great, as is the music. But for me it doesnt quite play fluidly. Keeps Stuttering a tiny bit. Couldnt quite figure out, if my PC or internet Connection where having trouble, but after even Lowering to 360p Quality it still doesnt play Fluidly, i figured it must propably be something with the Video File itself, you uploaded. Looks to me like the Software may be trying to show some Frames Twice or something because of some Wrong setting. Just wanting to let you know (if it plays fluid for everyone else, maybe it is actually just on my end because of whatever reason?). Otherwise great work on the Video!

41
With the c mount spacer, I don't see how to do this. Because it is unscrewed before the metal ring.
I'll try with drills. Once removed, I will only use the Speedbooster.
For removing it with the C-Mount Spacer, you need to keep it attached the whole time. Treat Them as a Single Piece. Tighten the C-Mount Spacer to the Camera Body bevore loosening the Small Worm Screw in the Bottom Of the Camera, so it wont come Loose Later. Loosen The Screw, remove the Brass Rod, Screw the C-Mount Spacer with the Stainless Steel-Mount Ring Out of there as One Piece. Depending on how hard you did Tighten Them bevorehand, you might not be able to get them apart again, once removed from the Camera. To Get them Apart again, do all the Above in Reverse order, and Unscrew the Spacer once you have Tightened the Bottom Worm Screw back up.
 As suggested by this Tutorial by Krontech, the Intended way of doing this, is to just keep them Together, not removing them.

42
[...], I did not make this, this is a Design by the Forum user "likevvii". This is also not my Camera, images and STL file are made by him, not me. [...]
As i wrote above, i havent printed or used this exact Adapter, i am making mine from Metal. I personally would use the Screws that come with the Adapter. Those Macro Tubes Are Basically just a Plastic Spacer, with two Metal MFT-Mounts, one male one Female. On The Original Macro tubes its also just Screwed directly to the Plastic into some Predrilled/ molded hole of appropriate Size. As those are fine for most standard Lenses, i would be fine with also just screwing it into the Plastic itself, and using it that way. As i also Said, i wouldnt trust it too much with Huge/ Heavy lenses Either, because its still just plastic and A bunch of tiny screws holding all the Weight. But if you didnt know, even most DSLRs will just have a Metal mount, which is mounted like this, screwed straight into the Plastic Body, where people will put 70-200 2.8 Lenses on and abuse them in all kinds of ways. Those tiny screws can hold surprisingly much.
 .
 Those Screws, that are originally used in the Macro tubes typically dont use Standardized Machine Threads, but something compareable to Wood-Screw-Threads (idk. how to word this better, not native speaker, there is propably a propper term for it...?). Meaning more coarse Threads with bigger Spacing in between them than compared to a Machine Screw of compareable Size. They are ment to screw into a blunt, straight hole without any Threads in them bevorehand, and deform the Plastic to form a Thread inside there, basically Self Tapping Plastic Screws? Best Mounting with those can be achived by messuring the Minor "Shaft" Diameter, without the Threads with some Calipers and making the Holes that exact size. I dont have those exact macro tubes Listed above, and havent looked into the 3d-File that closely, but if that was important to you, go ahead and double check the Size of those Holes, and modify them, if they are too big/ Small.
 Dont use those Screws with Threaded Inserts, not only will no standardized Thread insert fit (you would have to make some custom ones or get some Made, if you really wanted to...), those screws are also not meant for metal.
 If you dont trust those Screws, and want to use something more Metal, i would use Standard Machine Screws with Compareable Size and Standard Hex nuts of the Same Thread, which i would make Room For in the Back of the Adapter (Camera Side), a Hex Hole, so you would only need a Screw Driver From The Front.
 .
 If that is still not good enough, go ahead and find some CNC-Machine Shop and get basically the Same thing made from Aluminum, but with Machine Threads.
 Pay attention however, Bian told me, that the 3D-File needs to be Slightly ground to achive propper Flange Focal Distance, which is by design, so the adapter can be fit to the Camera and wont end up too short, if there are Tollerances between the Individual Cameras by Krontech. Else Focus on your Lens will be Slightly off, and you wont be able to focus on Infinity and Distant Objects.
 So it would be a very good idea, to make a Resin one first, figure out the Exact needed Dimension for Your Camera Unit, and use that for the Final Metal one, if you want to save yourself grinding the Metal one down, which is way harder to do and will take lot more time.
 I dont know, where are you from, and how the situation there is, but here in Germany, you can find Plenty of Machinist Pensioners with a Hobby Mill in their Garage or Basement and even small (one man-) Companies that will offer to take small Machine Jobs like such an Adapter (ebay + ebay Kleinanzeigen and such). Still will cost way more than a Resin one or Mass Producing them, depending on how you want it Machined and who does it, but propably a good option to keep in mind, if you have Serious Concerns about the Resin one Holding up to your Usecase Requirements.
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 Hope this could answer your Question
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 .
 #EDIT#: Forgot to add the Images I wanted to put here... Here they are, originally taken as an example to show how little actually holds a Lens an Camera (and other Stuff) together to some New People, as i saw one of them trying to Forcefully Remove a Lens by Just Trying to Turn it with two hands and Full Force, without even Pushing the Lock-/ Release Button on a Cam on Set the day bevore...  :o  Quite a sight to behold, still surprised the Cam and Lens where fine after that.

43
I would like to put a speedbooter too.
Do you have any tips to remove the CS steel ring without damaging the sensor, did you use a special tool?

If yours is Tight for whatever Reason and you need to Remove it often and might want an Dedicated tool for it, here is a cheap one for universal Use on different Lenses And Rings just Like that. There are also obviously way more Expensive ones...
 .
 https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000182977023.html? .
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 #EDIT#: I Just read through the Krontech Tutorial Again, and it seems like they reccomend to use the 5mm C-Mount Spacer (aka. CS- to C-Mount Adapter) as a grip to hold onto to remove the Ring, which, if i think about it, propably is a good idea to reccomend to people, though i never did it that way, and most likely never will. If you end up using any pins or Drills, make sure they are as Close as Possible to the Size of the Hole and dont Force it, to avoid producing a Bur on the Edges of the Holes, which will mess up your Flange Surface on the Mount-Ring.

44
I would like to put a speedbooter too.
Do you have any tips to remove the CS steel ring without damaging the sensor, did you use a special tool?

If you refer to actually unscrewining the Ring itself, there are two holes in it, which will fit an 1,2mm or Smaller Drill or Pin. Usually the Ring itself shouldnt be that Tight, and mostly can be unscrewed just with my fingers on mine or with the Help of a bit of Double Sided Tape on the Flat side of the Bodycap. There Shouldnt be much Force Needed, but if you cant get it off with those tricks, use some Small Pins/ Tiny Allen Wrenches/ Drill Bits to grip onto. There are obviously propper Tools For this, basically a ring/ Wrench with two pins sticking out, but you could help yourself with Drill bits or whatever you can find Laying around. See Image, Left side is a 1.2mm Drill, Right is an 1.0mm Drill.

45
I posted an somewhat detailed Explaination with plenty Images Here:
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 https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=614.msg3949#msg3949
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 There is also A Full Tutorial From Krontech themselfs, where it is explained with some Images:
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 https://www.krontech.ca/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/IR-Filter-.pdf
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 .
 If needed, i can also post an Video of how to remove it, let me know.

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