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Messages - Nikon1

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586
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos Meetup Germany
« on: March 16, 2018, 06:49:51 AM »
I now have found someone with a Chronos in Germany who will let me meet with him and take a closer look at the Camera. Our Meeting is Planed for 4.4.2018 or 5.4.2018. If someone is interrested to also join us, please send me a PM
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Now in German again:
Ich hab jetzt jemand mit einer Chronos Aus Deutschland gefunden, der mich mal seine Kamera anschauen und testen lässt. Ich werde Außerdem Ein ganzes Arsenal An Objektiven mit C-Mount und Nikon-1-Mount Mitbringen, die alle an der Chronos gut funktionieren sollten. Könnte also auch interresant sein für Leute, die schon eine Chronos haben und sich für Objektive interresieren. Unser Treffen ist für den 4.4.2018 oder 5.4.2018 in der Mitte Deutschlands geplant. Wer auch mit dazu kommen will, schickt mir eine Persönliche Message.

587
For anyone looking to just do time-warping I found a brilliant open-source project that does only that: slowmoVideo.

The same functionality exists in Adobe After Effects as the "Timewarp" effect.
for Time-Warping i could also Recommend "Twixtor", a Plugin for After Effects.
That one will cost you money or you get a Watermark on your Videos (there is also a workaround for avoiding the Watermark with the Free Version).
But it is the best Plugin/ Effect for Time-Warp i know of in terms of results.
That Plugin will work for AfterEffects down to Version CS2 / 7.0

588
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Type of RAM
« on: March 14, 2018, 03:04:54 PM »
Is the RAM user expandable? Does opening up the camera void the warranty?
Should be User Upgradable from what i have heard in other threads here in the Forum (I dont have a Chronos yet).
Should also be quite easy.
But i realy dont konw about the Warranty.
Someone else here should know.

589
Software Dev / Re: Software V0.3 Beta - Updated Jan 4 2018
« on: March 13, 2018, 12:32:37 PM »
I'm writing the user manual now. I don't know how long it'll take, since I'm working off the old one atm. After that, we'll need to do some testing to make sure nothing's broken. Then we'll release the next beta. 8)

While I imagine the release will come fairly quickly, on the order of weeks as opposed to months, I don't actually know. The last release was before I started with Krontech, so I don't have a good idea what we actually need to do here.
I talked with David via Mail about a HDR-Mode for the Chronos, and he said that there Was one in Developement currently.
Do you know, how far developement has come upon that topic?
Is that HDR-Mode planed to be Released with the next beta or do we have to wait a bit longer for that?
I am realy looking forward to this.

590
Chronos User Discussion / Re: IR light Source
« on: March 09, 2018, 11:07:56 PM »
I have some VERY minor "flicker" with my 100W LED modules. Not enough to be unusable, but still there. I would advise buying one module and testing before buying a bunch.
Yes, i could also just reccomend that.
(If you are patient enough to wait two times for the Delivery from China and also if you care about your money)

591
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Found lens spacer rings for cheap.
« on: March 09, 2018, 11:03:37 PM »
You can also Try Diopters.
Those can be Found on ebay from China for cheap.
You mount them on the Front of the Lens.
I use Small Spacers like those ones, you posted, or even some Spacers i cut out of paper or Plastic Foil myself.
And i Also use Diopters for some Things.
I found it good to have both options.
Cutting them out by yourself from Foil or Paper is a bit sketchy but works and is the cheapest option i found yet. You will maybe need to stack some of them then to get the prefered thicknes.

592
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos Meetup Germany
« on: March 07, 2018, 03:52:46 PM »
thanks

593
Chronos User Discussion / Re: IR light Source
« on: March 07, 2018, 04:02:06 AM »
You can Try those powerfull LED-Chips, which you can get on Ebay and from some other Sellers on the internet.
You can get those as 5W, 10W, 20W, 50W, 100W.
There are also 200W & 500W LED-Chips for visible Light, but i am not sure, if you can get them for IR.
If you feed those LED-Chips with realy Clean DC-Voltage, there should not be any Flicker at all.
I use such 100W-LED-Chips for Visible Light and get no flicker at up to 1200fps (most my Camera can do, i dont have a Chronos yet).
Should work also for IR-Light, just keep your LED cool with proper Cooling and Limit your Current, because driving these Chips with too high current can seriously Damage them.
The only drawback with such a Light-Setup is, that powerfull IR-LED´s tend to be pretty pricy.
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Also consider building a IR-LED-Panel or Ringlight with smaller LED´s (Like 5mm LEDs) because you need no Heatsink for most of those and it could maybe also end up being cheaper.
But i dont know, how much Light you want /need and if a reasonable sized LED-Panel or Ringlight would provide enough Light for you.

594
Hi, the "transformer" is just two Coils on a core and is for Filtering the Voltage even better.
You will find that kind of circut in Higher End Switching Power Supplys.
I actually ended up simply Copying the Input Stage of an Old PC Power Supply and also using most of its parts for the built.
Since i am not native Speaker i do not know, how to call that "transformer" exactly.
In german it is "Drossel", maybe look it up, if you feel the need for that.

595
I had a similar Problem with my LED-Lights.
Most of them are Pretty Cheap ones, and most of them Flicker a lot.
So i built a litle Box to Plug in between my Lamps and Mains Outlet.
Just a Simple rectifier and Electrolytic Capacitors and Ceramic Capacitors to Filter out all Riple.
Use Big enough Capacitors to get rid of all Voltage Ripple, Size depending on what kind of Power your Lamp has.
I would also recomend adding a Fuse, and a 100K Resistor to Discharge your Capacitors to Avoid Harm from Loaded Caps when unpluged.
The Diagram pictured Below is what i use for LED, don´t Know if that would work with your electronic ballast and your type of Lamps.
If the Ballast unit is not too expensive, and easily replaceable, maybe just try it or Work your Way up with the Voltage with a variac, like Tesla500 said.
Should Work for any Device or Lamp, that Uses DC voltage internaly anyways after a (cheap or poorly designd) rectifier stage.
For me this Works great, and i never had any Problems again with any Flicker on my Slow-Motion-Clips.
Use this Circut only, if you know what you are doing and on your own risk.

596
Any details on the prototype CS to MFT?  Something we can 3d print or laser cut to play with and test?
The biggest thing stopping me playing with any of the better lenses is that I'd have to buy them and they are not worth it for the quality improvement alone if it means a dramatic rise in F-stop.
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I just made a 3D-Printable Adapter to mount anything with MFT-Mount on the Chronos.
Downloadable STL-3D File Uploaded in this Post.
Realy quick & Dirty, if anyone can do it better, please do so.
Since i do not have:
-A Chronos yet
-MFT-Lenses
-A 3D-Printer,
I can not gurantee for anything and not even able to test that 3D-Model i just made.
So please Someone here try, if it works or if that 3D-Adapter needs Modifications, and post here, so other people Know.
I am not even sure, if the Lens Mount is Rotated Properly.
Should fit the Front of the Chronos with those four M4-Holes to be Mounted with four Screws.
Keep an eye on your Lenses, when you try to mount it, because i do not know if there will be enough clearance to fit your lens without hiting or Scratching your camera or Lens.
Also not sure about how strong that Adapter is, so be carefull and do everything on your own risk.
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For the Design of the 3D-Model i simply assumed, that the Flange focal distance of the CS-Mount of the Chronos would be the same as its Bodys Front Surface.
I added one Picture, showing that this seems not to be like this, and the CS-Mount stands off of the Front Surface somewhat.
Because that Distance seems to be very small, it should not be that big of a Problem. you will Reach infinity Focus, but you cant focus as close as usual (will be more apparent with wider Lenses).
If someone can provide me the exact dimension of that Distance, the CS-Mount is elevated above the Front Surface, i can change it in the 3D-File.
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Because of the Dimensions of that Adapter it would maybe even Possible, to Leave it on, while mounting C- or CS-Mount Lenses.

597
You could just make almost any Adapter with something like a Lenscap + C-Mount Extention Ring, some Grinding and Hot Glue.
At least if you have some Tools and are somewhat handy.
I dont have a Chronos yet, but if i had one, i would have found a Way to mount my Lenses on there, even if i just had to use Tape and Cardboard.
.
But proper Adapters really make Live easier, if you can get them anywhere.
Especialy if you have to rely on them.
I really hope that there will be Adapters some Time soon for MFT --> CS and N1 --> CS, also maybe Sony E --> CS.
Also hoping for some Company to start building Speedboosters for Nikon1-Mount and C or CS mounts and selling those.
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Interchangeable Mounts for the Chronos would be also a great Idea.

598
Chronos User Discussion / Chronos Meetup Germany
« on: February 27, 2018, 07:02:34 AM »
Since i realy want to test stuff bevore i buy it, and you wont find an Chronos in your small town´s Electronics Shop yet, i wanted to ask the Forum:
Is there somone in Germany (preferably South of Germany) who would let me come over to him and test his Chronos and let me play around a bit.
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I have a Nikon 1 System and realy like those high Framerates.
So i am Looking for a Upgrade.
I also got a lot of Lenses, that should fit the Chronos quite well.
I would like to compare the Nikon J5 with the Chronos, maybe Posting Results here.
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Some Time ago (Like 2 Month) i went to a big German Company, who sells Highspeedcameras, starting at 15.000€ or More.
I got about 3 Hours to test my J5 against that 26.000€ Camera and was glad i did that.
Because i was pretty disapointed from that camera.
That Camera did FullHD @5000 Fps, and 35.000 Fps @144px Vertcal Resolution which is impressive, but you will need always a massive Powersupply and a PC to control it.
And it has kind of poor Dynamic Range and Light Sensitivity.
I expected WAY more at that Price Point.
If someone Is interrested, just message me, i will upload that test.
So i realy want to test that Camera, bevore i buy it.
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I think, the Chronos will fit me well Specs-wise but i am realy interrested, what the expirience of using it myselfe would be, and how it would perform with my Cine-Lenses.
Also I want to see how the Chronos would hold up to the J5. While The Chronos will beat the J5 in terms of Framerate and Resolution, i want mainly see how about Colors, Dynamic Range and Sensitivity, since the J5 has some serios Dynamic Range.
I wrote all this to David Kronstein, an he said, that they have some High Dynamic Range Mode for the Chronos coming, planed for sometime this Year.
Looking forward to this.
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So if there is Someone in Germany, who would let me come over to him, please message me somehow.

599
Here are Some Images of That Tamron 10-100mm f/1.6
It had some Strange Mount, about which i could not find any Informations anywhere.
It now is Modified to Nikon 1 Mount using a lot of very good glue  :)
I will maybe post some More info about that in "Lets Talk Lenses" at some point.

600
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Let's talk LENSES!
« on: February 27, 2018, 05:23:43 AM »
Greetings fellow time travelers,

I think this belongs here, came up again in a PM this evening.
I found this way back, when I was still waiting for the Chronos to arrive and researching native lenses:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/142138567245?orig_cvip=true

It's an f/0.7 C-Mount 50mm lens by Fujinon.

IIRC that's very close to the "practical" limit. It was too expensive to just "shop and test" it..
It "could" have been incompatible (I heard about some c-mount lenses lenses which won't work on the Chronos, don't remember the specifics. Protrusion issue into the camera body? See image 5 for example..).
AND notice the lovely "-TV" tag. Would've been too risky ;)
(It may have been vastly overprized as well.)

Here's some explanation why you won't find much faster lenses:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84ZXfviMBFE

And this was just a marketing stunt without actually producing anything usable:
https://petapixel.com/2013/08/06/carl-zeiss-super-q-gigantar-40mm-f0-33-the-fastest-lens-ever-made/

;D

All the best
Martin

I own a Set of Schneider-Kreuznach Xenons, 17mm, 25mm and 50mm
All of them are quite fast and have a f/0.95 Aperture and are native C-Mount.
The 17mm is built for 2/3", but almost covers the Nikon1 Sensor. It also prodtrudes extremely far into the Camera Body, and i had to do some extreme Modifications to my Nikon J5 to make it fit.
The 25mm ist for 1" but mostly covers MFT.
The 50mm is not exactly known for what Format it is built, but covers FullFrame with some Modifications.
I would realy recommend, if anyone want to buy such a Lens, to do some proper Research about those old Lenses and the Images they produce and maybe try them on Location when buying if that is possible.
Because some (or even most) of those old, extreme fast Lenses can produce quite some funky Results you might not like.
I realy like the Look those Lenses make, but that is up to personal taste.
That said, i also keep a set of more modern, (not quite as) fast Lenses for every Focal Length, in case i need Images with a "Cleaner" Look or for realy difficult Light situations, if i dont want Flares and all that stuff.
.
Also keep in Mind:
f/0,7 is just one full Stop more Light than f/0,95. And f0,95 is again just one full Stop faster than f/1,4.
That means your 50mm 1.8 or 1.4 is plenty of a fast Lens for its commonly cheap price.
You can get something like a SMC-M PK 50mm f/1.7 for like 20€ or even less, if you spend some time searching the internet.
That is a realy sharp and reasonably fast Lens.
And compared to the Prices for your average f/0,95 (or faster) Lens that is just no Question what to get, unless you realy know what for and why you would need those Ultra-Fast Lenses.
Mostly it is just easyer to add Light to whatever you are filming.
Or just use Sunlight +maybe Reflectors & Diffusors, if that is a Option.
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Depends on what you want capture, it may realy be possible you find yourself someday in a situation, where you cant just add Light and also cant use other camera settings for technical (or other) Reasons, like Framerate and Distance or the scale of your Shot.
Even then those Lenses Wide open can completely "destroy" your image in terms of contrast and so on.
So you will find yourself sometimes maybe even stopping those down slightly to like f/1.4 or f/2 (or even further) if you want to use it for someting else than cinematic images. Technical Imaging for example.
And then you could just use any other Lens as fast as f/1.4 or f/2
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I have to say those Schneider-Kreuznach Xenon Lenses are Realy sharp, even wide open. Maybe some of the sharpest 0,95´s you will get, especialy considering the Age of those.
BUT they loose a Lot of Contrast when wide open, make Flares and quirky bokeh, and some other stuff. And i REALY like that.
Not all of those old superfast Lenses are Sharp Wide open!!! So at least get some high Quality Test images or references of People, that used those Same Lenses you want to buy.
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And i have to say, i allready find that 50mm f/0,95 Lens Stupid Hard to focus, because of how shallow the Focal plane is.
I never got into the joy of playing with faster glass (that had a proper Mount and could focus to infinity) yet, but i would be realy curios, what it would be like to use & focus those even Faster Lenses.
I am realy used to manual Focusing, but that Lens may be the Hardest one to properly Focus, out of those that i own.
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SUMMARY: Know what you are doing if you buy Lenses like this, because Stuff is expensive.

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