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62
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Procedure for RAM upgrade
« on: December 17, 2022, 12:53:59 PM »
Reading this, i guess this works.
I´d still be very careful with this.
Dont want to hold anybody back doing whatever they can or want to do with their Camera, just wanting to put a little Warning there following your Post for anybody reading along later, maybe less skilled or experienced, trying to prevent damage by pointing out potential Risks in this Approach.
Safest Way to disassemble for me still is like tesla500 (David Kronstein, https://www.youtube.com/@tesla500) did Show on his Official Teardown Video of the 1.4 or 2.1 respectively.
I´d still be very careful with this.
Dont want to hold anybody back doing whatever they can or want to do with their Camera, just wanting to put a little Warning there following your Post for anybody reading along later, maybe less skilled or experienced, trying to prevent damage by pointing out potential Risks in this Approach.
Safest Way to disassemble for me still is like tesla500 (David Kronstein, https://www.youtube.com/@tesla500) did Show on his Official Teardown Video of the 1.4 or 2.1 respectively.
63
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Procedure for RAM upgrade
« on: December 17, 2022, 09:52:31 AM »
I did some Wild Stuff with my Chronos ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zUavp2P5Kw and much more...), but Trying to replace the RAM while the Ribbon Cables are Still Connected seems too Sketchy even for my Taste.
As you did Proof, it apparently CAN be done, but i wouldnt recommend personally doing /trying to do it.
Disconnecting the Cables just seems sooo much more save for so little more Effort, its absolutely a No-Brainer for me!
Most Risky i find is the Tiny Cable coming from the Display Unit. That one is very narrow and has even tiny SMD Parts soldered onto it, and a much Wider one also with parts on it. These ones i fear breaking the Most.
The Other ones are very Cheap Standard Size Ribbon Cables, which you can just go and order at most better Electronic Stores or straight up Ebay / Amazon, The Two from the Display seem Close to Impossible to Replace without just Replacing the Display Unit or at least the LCD itself.
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Apart from that, there also is just always the Risk of Straight up Ripping the Connectors off the PCB, Possibly even Taking the Traces with them, given you manage to rip it off suddenly enough, that the Ribbon wont break or something (Seen some Nasty stuff happen with Ribbon Cables / PCB´s; so possibly i am just a little Paranoid, but these things can happen). Messing the Mainboard up very Badly in the Process of doing so...
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Have to admit, it is kinda Awkward to disconnect them and Put them back in later, cause they can be a little short to work comfortably in there, but i personally rather take the Time and be Careful, and remove them each time, than deal with the Damage once i somehow mess up and somehow drop something and break a Cable or Whole Board because of it.
Even for the Test on YT i just linked here, i tried to make Sure to prevent any Chance of the Ribbons Breaking by somewhat restraining The Three "Units" together as good as possible within reason.
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So in Short, Please dont. At least unless you have some really elegant Way of getting it done, which i am not aware of...?
Glad however, the Hardware Upgrade worked for you without breaking anything. Had to reset Trigger Settings as well, on first time turning it on, i as well did wonder if i did something wrong, as it still did record just as much time as before, but later found out to change the Trigger Settings.
As you did Proof, it apparently CAN be done, but i wouldnt recommend personally doing /trying to do it.
Disconnecting the Cables just seems sooo much more save for so little more Effort, its absolutely a No-Brainer for me!
Most Risky i find is the Tiny Cable coming from the Display Unit. That one is very narrow and has even tiny SMD Parts soldered onto it, and a much Wider one also with parts on it. These ones i fear breaking the Most.
The Other ones are very Cheap Standard Size Ribbon Cables, which you can just go and order at most better Electronic Stores or straight up Ebay / Amazon, The Two from the Display seem Close to Impossible to Replace without just Replacing the Display Unit or at least the LCD itself.
.
Apart from that, there also is just always the Risk of Straight up Ripping the Connectors off the PCB, Possibly even Taking the Traces with them, given you manage to rip it off suddenly enough, that the Ribbon wont break or something (Seen some Nasty stuff happen with Ribbon Cables / PCB´s; so possibly i am just a little Paranoid, but these things can happen). Messing the Mainboard up very Badly in the Process of doing so...
.
Have to admit, it is kinda Awkward to disconnect them and Put them back in later, cause they can be a little short to work comfortably in there, but i personally rather take the Time and be Careful, and remove them each time, than deal with the Damage once i somehow mess up and somehow drop something and break a Cable or Whole Board because of it.
Even for the Test on YT i just linked here, i tried to make Sure to prevent any Chance of the Ribbons Breaking by somewhat restraining The Three "Units" together as good as possible within reason.
.
So in Short, Please dont. At least unless you have some really elegant Way of getting it done, which i am not aware of...?
Glad however, the Hardware Upgrade worked for you without breaking anything. Had to reset Trigger Settings as well, on first time turning it on, i as well did wonder if i did something wrong, as it still did record just as much time as before, but later found out to change the Trigger Settings.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Introduction and showing my open-source workflow
« on: December 08, 2022, 02:01:08 PM »[..] looks easy to me [..]
Damn, and i thought i used a ton of Modifiers on my Grading and Color Correction...
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: mft mount - c-mount cannot be unscrewed
« on: December 03, 2022, 07:36:16 AM »There is another problem - if I remove this screw and rod - there will be a hole where the dust will fly.I did in fact inform Krontech, that i Think this is or Could be an Issue, at least in Theory.
However, since i pretty much always run my Chronos with a rather Big Quick-Mount Plate Screwed onto the Bottom (which basically Completely Covers said Hole) and am Usually not in absurdly Dusty Places, i never did anything more about it than telling them.
If that is a Problem for You, cause you run the Camera in Places where there is a lot of dust (Which i wouldnt doubt from that Red Bull Shot i seen), especially if your Rig or Mounting Solution does not Cover it on its own, ESPECIALLY if the Camera is used a lot inverted, meaning that Hole would be Facing upwards, then there is Basically 3 Solutions i did Consider (cant Remember, probably also wrote them to Krontech)
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1. Pretty Temporary Solution, but just Tape It shut on the Outside.
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2. Cut yourself a Little Wedge from some EVA Foam or something Similar, in a Shape that you can Push it into the Hole to cover it, and it not getting Loose on its own, but with just enough Material Left still sticking out, so you can still grab onto it and remove it Later with some tweezers or something.
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3. Machine or get machined a custom Cover Screw. This is the most Professional, most Proper and most Long-Term Solution, but also Requires far more Effort. I considered Making one for myself, but never had much Problems with dust anyways, as that Hole on mine was Basically covered, so i did never actually go on to make one. If you are Interested, i can look into it again, and Either provide you with Blueprints / Dimensional Drawings, so you could get one Machined Locally, or just make it myself and Send it to you. As its just a tiny Size Part, that could very easily be Shipped as a Small Letter Envelope. but if i recall Correctly, you where from Russia, and i am absolutely not up-to-Date with whatever Stupid Restrictions on Shipping stuff to Russia from Germany are there Currently, but willing to try and send one anyways, if you want.
Otherwise, if there are Restrictions still, you will easily find someone with a Lathe able to make a Cover Screw with some Dimensional Drawings. Doesnt need to be Crazy Precise of a Part, as its literally just a Screw-in-Plug, but its Fairly Tiny, so could be Challenging on the Kind of big Lathe and Tooling i imagine some average Local Shop in Russia would have? .
If i can Provide any Help with option 3, either making one or Drawings, let me know.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: mft mount - c-mount cannot be unscrewed
« on: November 30, 2022, 05:53:46 AM »
Can you post a Few Images of the Mount that is Stuck on the Camera, as well as Closeups of the Rod and Small Screw, ideally also from the Hole which the Screw and Rod originally where in?
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Unless something is somehow Damaged Mechanically, its really somewhat Strange that it is not possible to unscrew the Ring.
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Unless something is somehow Damaged Mechanically, its really somewhat Strange that it is not possible to unscrew the Ring.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: mft mount - c-mount cannot be unscrewed
« on: November 25, 2022, 11:43:08 AM »
The MFT Mount Should Work with the C-Mount Ring Still attached to the Camera; as long as you can Make sure the Lens Clears the Stainless C-Mount Ring and has nothing Protruding on the Rear.
However, as there has been quite some Confusion with people not knowing the Difference between the Actual C-Mount Ring that is Part of the Camera itself, and the 5mm C-Mount to CS-Mount Spacer Ring / Adapter that is screwed into it; it is generally Highly Recommended to remove the C-Mount Prior to using the MFT-Mount to avoid any Risk of Damage on Lenses or the Camera. Also Some Lenses and particularly Metabones Speedboosters and Similar Adapters have large Rear Elements that protrude quite a bit into the Camera and would hit that Ring.
General Rule of Thumb: If you have to ask if you have to Remove the C-Mount Ring or Why, you should remove it (no offense, but thats kinda how it is...). Only leave it where it is, if you know exactly why you do so, else just remove it.
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As far as removing the Ring, have you unscrewed the Small Screw on the Bottom of the Camera and removed it and the Small Brass Rod?
See: https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=614.msg3949#msg3949
That Screw is Meant to Hold Said C-Mount Ring in Place, so you dont accidentally have it Falling out, or have the Backfocus Change (as Screwing that Ring in or Out of the Camera further also determines the Proper Backfocus of your Lenses). That Screw Usually does a Extremely good Job at Preventing accidental Unscrewing of the Mount Ring, as well as Intentional Unscrewing Attempts.
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I Personally Put a Small black Sharpie Mark where the White Line on the Camera Body is, so i can Just line these Two back up again, if i want to put it Back and save myself some Lengthy Backfocus Setting each time i do so.
However, as there has been quite some Confusion with people not knowing the Difference between the Actual C-Mount Ring that is Part of the Camera itself, and the 5mm C-Mount to CS-Mount Spacer Ring / Adapter that is screwed into it; it is generally Highly Recommended to remove the C-Mount Prior to using the MFT-Mount to avoid any Risk of Damage on Lenses or the Camera. Also Some Lenses and particularly Metabones Speedboosters and Similar Adapters have large Rear Elements that protrude quite a bit into the Camera and would hit that Ring.
General Rule of Thumb: If you have to ask if you have to Remove the C-Mount Ring or Why, you should remove it (no offense, but thats kinda how it is...). Only leave it where it is, if you know exactly why you do so, else just remove it.
.
As far as removing the Ring, have you unscrewed the Small Screw on the Bottom of the Camera and removed it and the Small Brass Rod?
See: https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=614.msg3949#msg3949
That Screw is Meant to Hold Said C-Mount Ring in Place, so you dont accidentally have it Falling out, or have the Backfocus Change (as Screwing that Ring in or Out of the Camera further also determines the Proper Backfocus of your Lenses). That Screw Usually does a Extremely good Job at Preventing accidental Unscrewing of the Mount Ring, as well as Intentional Unscrewing Attempts.
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I Personally Put a Small black Sharpie Mark where the White Line on the Camera Body is, so i can Just line these Two back up again, if i want to put it Back and save myself some Lengthy Backfocus Setting each time i do so.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Procedure for RAM upgrade
« on: November 21, 2022, 01:49:06 PM »
Yes, but you need to open the Camera.
If you never done this or anything alike, be very Careful to not damage anything inside.
Other than that its pretty easy, just put in more RAM.
Camera takes Standard Laptop Memory, so upgrading to 16GB is easy.
Upgrading the Camera to 32GB is a bit more Difficult, as you need to find two Memory Sticks with 16GB Per Stick (2x 16GB), but other than that nothing much to it.
If you never done this or anything alike, be very Careful to not damage anything inside.
Other than that its pretty easy, just put in more RAM.
Camera takes Standard Laptop Memory, so upgrading to 16GB is easy.
Upgrading the Camera to 32GB is a bit more Difficult, as you need to find two Memory Sticks with 16GB Per Stick (2x 16GB), but other than that nothing much to it.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: 60fps? 250fps? 500fps? is it real?
« on: November 21, 2022, 01:45:07 PM »
Yes, just go to the Record Settings, and change Resolution to what you want (for Lower Framerates like 60 / 250 or 500 probably Still FullHD) and type in whatever Framerate you want, for example 317fps, and Apply it.
Make sure to set your Shutter angle accordingly, and do a Black Calibration when everything is set and you are Ready to Record.
Make sure to set your Shutter angle accordingly, and do a Black Calibration when everything is set and you are Ready to Record.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Procedure for RAM upgrade
« on: November 17, 2022, 10:47:13 AM »
No Problem, trying to help where i can.
Can very much Confirm, that you Should do whatever you can to make sure to not work on the Insides of the Camera with the Main Battery Installed in it.
Also dont Hurry, take your Time, you can easily break stuff inside there if not careful.
And while i myself am not super paranoid about ESD, its still a topic that should not be completely ignored. Working in or around Carpet and certain types of Cloth are absolutely to be avoided.
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Regards Type of RAM, i personally also just went with whatever i could find. Given you get the Right Type, i dont really see why it should not work, but unless you or someone else actually Tried, its still somewhat of a risk technically.
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Good to hear you got it working though, have lots of fun with it for a long time!
Can very much Confirm, that you Should do whatever you can to make sure to not work on the Insides of the Camera with the Main Battery Installed in it.
Also dont Hurry, take your Time, you can easily break stuff inside there if not careful.
And while i myself am not super paranoid about ESD, its still a topic that should not be completely ignored. Working in or around Carpet and certain types of Cloth are absolutely to be avoided.
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Regards Type of RAM, i personally also just went with whatever i could find. Given you get the Right Type, i dont really see why it should not work, but unless you or someone else actually Tried, its still somewhat of a risk technically.
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Good to hear you got it working though, have lots of fun with it for a long time!
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Procedure for RAM upgrade
« on: November 17, 2022, 08:58:45 AM »
I dont really know if you actually damaged anything, but there are a Few more things to try, before i personally would give up trying myself:
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1. Probably not a good idea to Mix and Match RAM. I honestly am not 100% sure anymore, if it is supported in theory (There was some Post a good while ago from someone from Krontech or even David himself, talking about a 24GB Memory Configuration, but would need to look that up.), but i would not run that. Either stay with the 8GB or go with 2x16GB if you bother upgrading yourself. RAM is not all That Expensive anymore, and you can always limit Recording time in the Settings if you feel like it.
Make sure all Ribbon Cables and other Connectors are Fully Inserted and properly Connected.
For Testing i would start with the Hardware Setup as you got it (Last known working State), meaning the 8GB in whatever Slot the Stick was when still working as intended.
If the Next few steps dont work, buy 2x16GB Sticks, but brand New, matched ones from some Known Working Brand (in case you actually fried the original 8GB one and the 16GB one you bought somehow) and Repeat trying if needed.
Before Buying new ones, maybe also Post an Image of the One you already bought, just to verify its the Right one.
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2. Get your Hands on a new Name Brand Micro SD card of 32GB Size and Flash a brand New Firmware Installation onto it with your PC. Directions on how to do so can be found on the Forum with some Searching. Remove the Second Micro SD Card on the BOTTOM OF THE CAMERA (Firmware / OS Card, not the One for saving Footage on top!). Put Fresh installed New Card in, but keep the Original Card in a Save Place, and do not throw it away, delete or Tamper with whatever Is on there, might still need it, as the Original Calibration files should still be on there, and if the Problem was not the SD Card, but actually the Camera Hardware, i would still want to run the Original Card over the New one.
Try to Power on the Camera/ boot with new OS installation on New card, first with the Original RAM Setup, later maybe with new RAM if it wont work.
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3. If the New Flashed OS does not work out, you can still try, if removing the Battery ON the Mainboard and Putting it Back in changes anything (See image at: https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=802.msg5433#msg5433).
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If nothing of the Above works, i would start to consider if Any of the Cameras Hardware itself is Damaged (Speaking Mainboard or any of the Processors). From what you described (Looping Start Screen), its very possible the Original Install of the Firmware just broke (Software on there) or the Firmware Card Broke (SD Card Failed on an Hardware Level, rare but happened to someone here if i recall correctly).
Report your Findings from trying all of that, maybe there is anything more to try depending on what happens.
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Also, i personally really dont mind People posting a little Longer, but then Complete Questions etc. on here. Actually Prefer it. Its still a lot easier than someone just Posting "Bought used 1.4, installed new RAM, now it will not boot" kind of Question without any more Info, and then everyone trying to help needing to ask a Dozen Questions first, to even get to a Point of where actual Advice or Help can be given without just Wild guessing Stuff; leading to Probably more Text overall than just a Detailed Question in the First Place.
So you are good there, absolutely.
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1. Probably not a good idea to Mix and Match RAM. I honestly am not 100% sure anymore, if it is supported in theory (There was some Post a good while ago from someone from Krontech or even David himself, talking about a 24GB Memory Configuration, but would need to look that up.), but i would not run that. Either stay with the 8GB or go with 2x16GB if you bother upgrading yourself. RAM is not all That Expensive anymore, and you can always limit Recording time in the Settings if you feel like it.
Make sure all Ribbon Cables and other Connectors are Fully Inserted and properly Connected.
For Testing i would start with the Hardware Setup as you got it (Last known working State), meaning the 8GB in whatever Slot the Stick was when still working as intended.
If the Next few steps dont work, buy 2x16GB Sticks, but brand New, matched ones from some Known Working Brand (in case you actually fried the original 8GB one and the 16GB one you bought somehow) and Repeat trying if needed.
Before Buying new ones, maybe also Post an Image of the One you already bought, just to verify its the Right one.
.
2. Get your Hands on a new Name Brand Micro SD card of 32GB Size and Flash a brand New Firmware Installation onto it with your PC. Directions on how to do so can be found on the Forum with some Searching. Remove the Second Micro SD Card on the BOTTOM OF THE CAMERA (Firmware / OS Card, not the One for saving Footage on top!). Put Fresh installed New Card in, but keep the Original Card in a Save Place, and do not throw it away, delete or Tamper with whatever Is on there, might still need it, as the Original Calibration files should still be on there, and if the Problem was not the SD Card, but actually the Camera Hardware, i would still want to run the Original Card over the New one.
Try to Power on the Camera/ boot with new OS installation on New card, first with the Original RAM Setup, later maybe with new RAM if it wont work.
.
3. If the New Flashed OS does not work out, you can still try, if removing the Battery ON the Mainboard and Putting it Back in changes anything (See image at: https://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=802.msg5433#msg5433).
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If nothing of the Above works, i would start to consider if Any of the Cameras Hardware itself is Damaged (Speaking Mainboard or any of the Processors). From what you described (Looping Start Screen), its very possible the Original Install of the Firmware just broke (Software on there) or the Firmware Card Broke (SD Card Failed on an Hardware Level, rare but happened to someone here if i recall correctly).
Report your Findings from trying all of that, maybe there is anything more to try depending on what happens.
.
Also, i personally really dont mind People posting a little Longer, but then Complete Questions etc. on here. Actually Prefer it. Its still a lot easier than someone just Posting "Bought used 1.4, installed new RAM, now it will not boot" kind of Question without any more Info, and then everyone trying to help needing to ask a Dozen Questions first, to even get to a Point of where actual Advice or Help can be given without just Wild guessing Stuff; leading to Probably more Text overall than just a Detailed Question in the First Place.
So you are good there, absolutely.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Help! Clean camera sensor (ir filter)
« on: November 14, 2022, 07:49:45 AM »
Good to hear that it worked out for you and you could successfully clean it!
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Loosing settings when power lost.
« on: November 13, 2022, 01:10:39 PM »74
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Loosing settings when power lost.
« on: November 13, 2022, 01:05:33 PM »
Cant Reply in the Other Thread, just getting Error 403 Forbidden over and Over again for whatever reason, so here What i Tried to post there:
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Quote
Just had a quick look at it, and from all i could tell, on the current Firmware the Web GUI is missing the Option to set Record Length.
No idea if it is planed to be added in the Future, but you could post this on the Thread of the Current Firmware.
To change it without Physical Access to the Camera via Network only, this should be possible to Change via the Network API.
Have a Read through the API Documentation yourself (Accessible via the Web GUI > Documentation), just a Small Screenshot here.
I am no Programmer and am certainly not able to change it myself without some fair bit of Research, but seems not too difficult to figure out, if you actually need to use it, like you do.
From what i understand, changing Record Length as well as Trigger Timings and Record Mode should be very possible and easy with the API.
If you use the same Delay and Record Length everytime, you should probably be able to just write up some kind of Command, and reuse that every time it looses these Settings.
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Really never used the API myself, so if I am Wrong in any Capacity, someone who actually knows what he is talking about correct me here.
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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Help! Clean camera sensor (ir filter)
« on: November 13, 2022, 12:12:17 PM »
@ivandan:
Did my lengthy Explanation help in any way, or would you still prefer me to make a Video?
Did my lengthy Explanation help in any way, or would you still prefer me to make a Video?