Messages

601

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!

« on: October 19, 2020, 06:47:12 AM »

Another one, Laowa 24mm PROBE, 1000 fps, 18 db gain and a lot of noise reduction.

Does anyone have any suggestions how to get rid of the vertical lines from the sensor? Is there any special software.

Video Link doesnt work for me for some reason. An idea would be to try and record some kind of "empty frame reference", so just an very evenly lit white surface with the same Settings as whatever you shot your footage with lines at and expose it to something like 30-50% grey. Should still record the Lines then and can then just be removed in post production with the correction mask you just recorded. worth a try, also gave me a kind of useable result when i did that 12fps test without propper Black Calibration which on itself was basically so bad image Quality, you couldnt even really see what it is supposed to be. With an (in this case Black reference) reference Recorded at the same Settings i was able to clean the Image up in post significantly and it ended up looking surprisingly good in comparison to what i started with. Would propably try to record a bit longer, not to just use a single frame as such a reference. Will mostly end up looking more organic if the reference is taken from recorded footage, not just from one frame.

602

Chronos User Discussion / Re: speed booster for the chronos to reduce crop on full frame lenses

« on: October 18, 2020, 04:54:53 AM »

Hello,

after buying a Laowa Probe with Canon EF mount, I wonder if it is possible to put a speed booster between it and the Chronos. So I wake up this old thread again.

I would like to avoid screwing things off the camera or to 3D print things, I have never done that. So I wonder if there is an easy way to go nowadays, e.g. buy a speedbooster that adapts to the Chronos right out of the box? At the moment I have a CS to Canon EF- adapter mounted to the Chronos. 

Thanks a lot!

How do you feel about Metall adapters for Mounting the Speedbooster to the Chronos?
 You will need to mount the Speedbooster (this is at least true for the 0.64x and 0,58x, havent tested an 0.71x yet, but assume its just the same there.) via the 4x M4 Screws on the Front via some kind of Plate-Style adapter, because you need to remove the Stainless Steel C-Mount Part on the Chronos Camera Body for the Back element to even Fit, cause it is so close to the camera and too fat to fit into the C-Mount hole. When the Stainless mount part is removed, it will fit. The C-Mount can be Put back in rather Quickly, if you have a little bit of practice, you can change from Speedbooster back to the C-Mount in 2 Minutes or less.

603

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!

« on: October 18, 2020, 04:38:40 AM »

Now I don't have a slider, so I tried to build something on the fly. That turned out to be useless, since every small disturbance of the motion translates into real shaking with the Laowa "Stick". Also, when stopping down to F40, even the smallest piece of dust on the sensor becomes visible.

So using that lens at 1000 fps not only requires sunglasses and massive light but also a very stable camera slider.

Here is a test that reveals the upcoming problems.

Is this shot at 1000fps? or 60?Even if your Slider is a bit wobbly, when you do a crazy fast push-in on it at 1000fps, alone the much slower playback should smooth out a lot of the motion your Slider Might produce. Also most better sliders can be re-Adjusted, for example for Wear and such. Out of the box most wont be too tight, because then they dont slide as freely, but for something like that shot with macro stuff closeup on a long Lens-Stick thing, you might want it a bit tighter, since that also reduces Play by a lot usually.
 And Yes, you propably want to clean your sensor and frontlens/ lens Back element when using that lens...
 

Now as you mentioned the speed boosters, they came to my mind again. I forgot about them, but now I need to know what I could do with them in combination with the Laowa. I resurrected the Speedbooster-Thread again for that.

 http://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=464.msg3823#msg3823

604

Chronos User Discussion / Re: speed booster for the chronos to reduce crop on full frame lenses

« on: October 18, 2020, 04:06:16 AM »

http://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=464.msg3823#msg3823

605

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Introducing Chronos 2.1 HD!

« on: October 16, 2020, 06:40:30 PM »

oh, sorry, didnt look in this thread for a while and somehow propably turned off notifications for that one. So, sorry for the Late answer to this. Yes, 0,58x and 0,64x from Metabones will fit, but the C-Mount Ring needs to be removed, but there is enough clearance there, i own and tested both. Make sure to screw the small screw all the way out and drop the small brass bar out on the bottom of the Camera, to avoid it dropping onto the Sensor later when the C-Mount ring is removed later. 0,58x will work very well for the 1.4, but will show serious vignetting on the 2.1 Sensor. For 720p Resolution the 0,58x is however also useable on the 2.1. the 0,64x works pretty well on the 2.1, but will still vignett at around 18mm and Shorter and on like 150mm and longer. Between 20 and 140mm its not too noticeable, but still a little bit visible if you are looking for it. The 0.64x is very useable on the 2.1 for most focal length. Keep in mind that maximal usefull input Apperture on all the Metabones speedboosters is f/1.2, so even if you for some reason managed to mount an f/0,95 Lens on there, you wont gain any more Light over a f/1.2 Lens.

606

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!

« on: October 16, 2020, 02:16:55 PM »

Hmmmm, what angles are you thinking about? Any ideas I should have had myself? :-)

The whole thing isn't heavy at all, and most weight is at the cameras side, I think. If you want, I can examine that for you.

I have been to a local dealer who had that lens on stock, taking a Godox 200 with me to test how much light it needs. As supposed it needs tons. I saw Steve Giralt and his clients in a making of clip wearing sunglasses. You will often find yourself wearing sunglasses, if you buy this thing.

ok, i like really bright lights, but so far never found myself wearing Sunglasses because of lighting, so THATS BRIGHT!
 Thanks for the info on the weight, wouldnt need any further info on it, if its not really heavy on the front its fine. Should work on an gimbal then, if i would ever end up using it on one
 I personally would use it with a speedbooster, to make it wider and also to gain a bit more than a stop of light on it.
 For crazy angles, think about a fast push in into some tight, fast moving Machine or if you are mad brave, stick it into an wasps nest and pull it out really quickly. While this is actually pretty crazy, this lens would be really nice to have, even if i never did either of those two, to get into tight spaces. Also the Image on that lens is just so surreal looking from every test i seen, and while the Small apperture is tricky because of the Amount of light you need, the huge Depth of field is great. ALSO that lens actually can focus really close as far as i am aware, which i really miss on about all bigger format Wide angle Lenses which are not special Macro-Lenses.

607

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Clear statement concerning audio recording capabilities

« on: October 16, 2020, 11:05:04 AM »

Yes, thats the exact reason, why most DSLRs/ DSLMs today can only record for 29Min and 59sec internally, as weird as that is, but if they made it just one second longer, it would cost more to import.
 I actually classified mine as "eine Digitale Highspeedkamera incl. im Lieferumfang enthaltenes Zuhbehör wie z.B. Ladegerät, Akku, Speichermedium. Und ein Infrarot schutzfilter-Glas für den Sensor", so an Digital Highspeedcamera, which i think is kind of different than just calling it a digital Camera in general.
 And you are right about that, while you propably could use the Chronos to record real time video longer than 30Min in one go (i dont know if an SSD would still be considered recording internally, since if you hook up an Atomos Recorder to a Sony A7 it counts as recording externally, so it also cant record 30+ Min INTERNALLY...), and in future maybe also with Audio, or just use some kind of standalone Audio Recorder like an H1 or H4 with an External mic, i wouldnt really use it for that, since there are just better ways to do that. Would be kind of surprised if someone actually used the 2.1 for something like this unless they had good reasons for doing so...? About as "easily" you could use it for Timelapse (sarcasm btw.), but thats not what it is meant for. While you can also go and take Single Images with the Chronos and basically use it as a Photography tool (i actually did that for testing, it works), it also isnt really good at doing it, for different reasons, one of them beeing the rather obsolete resolution for digital Still images, the other one beeing a lot of work to finally get that single image saved. It is and propably allways will be a speciality camera for Highspeed Video, its the only thing it does good, but it does that REALLY GOOD. Most common digital Cameras of today are more and more becoming some kind of universal tool, for images, video, and more and more even do Highspeed Video. But they also usually either focus on beeing an good Video Camera (A7s Series, GH5 and alike), or beeing a good Picture camera, they usually cut corners on the other features to do one thing really good, others might try to balance it out a bit more and make an Camera that isnt the best at doing anything in particular, but can do a lot of things good enough. And both the Chronos Cameras are not really video cameras. About everyone i can think of would propably use some different Camera to shoot anything else than effects shots on the Chronos, unless you want to 100% Color match the Footage or film from Same perspective or stuff like that.

608

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread

« on: October 16, 2020, 09:45:05 AM »

Hello everbody,

i tried my look with some sparklers. Tested from 1,500 fps up to 25,00 fps.
I get the feeling, that I can't focus it any better but it still looks out of focus some times

video available in around 2 hours... i have to go to sleep now an let youtube do it's thing

https://youtu.be/E4sjlqmX4F8

PS: I finally get to test the DAIN program at one of my popcorn clips from my last video.

For only one clip that lastet about 20 seconds my computer took around 3 hours to create a 4 times slower video. ... But the result was stunningly good!!!
But for my kind of video hobby youtube thing, this tooks way too long. But maybe for single clips I can use it. But not for the whole video.

Well, that lens seems to not be the sharpest thing ever (just judging from all the Purple and Green Fringes there), but i think the biggest problem here is also depth of field, the Plane of focus, which is actually REALLY sharp is very shallow for Closeups like this. Filming Highspeed video in combination with the Closeup then also means, you propably cant just close the Lens down as much as you might want, to get an bright enough image. Since the Single Sparks fly all over the place, they are rarely actually in focus even if the Sparkler Stick itself is as sharp as you can get it. Also (i attached a croped Part of an image i took a while ago at an wedding), those Sparks never really look that sharp anyways, unless you have pretty high resolution. As you can see in my image, the Lines of the Sparks flying are always pretty wide and will look out of focus most of the time anyways, then the point where it "sparkles" is just a ton of fine lines and sometimes those also again break up into smaller bits. In those locations where they "sparkle" is a lot going on, which is propably too much detail to propperly capture on 720p resolution, unless you manage to get an even Closer Closeup of just one of the Sparks itself in focus. To sum up what i am trying to say, while it looks unsharp, if you look at single frames of the Video, it is propably as sharp as it will get with that lens at that resolution, you can sometimes see some 1px Wide lines, which are just as much in focus as they could.

That's strange, the focus plane should be deep enough. Because most of the time I filmed with f/10 or even higher ... even up to around f/20ish . The focus plane should be okay. At the time I was focusing, it looked sharp to me, but the end result was not that sharp at all. Maybe the upscaling did break it.

Maybe, even at a higher f-stop the focus plane of my lens is too shallow... for the next video I'll try my other lenses.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffraction-limited_system
 Well, if you stop down too far, you sure gain depth of field, but there Still might be diffraction which will make the Sharpness decrease again after a certain point. Depends heavily on the lens, but usually for smaller sensors like in the 1.4; f/11 and smaller can allready start to show sharpness limitations from Diffraction. If its a lens which is not specially designed for Closeups and /or Small apertures, it might show sooner on other lenses later, but just stopping a lens down all the Way doesnt mean its on its "sharpest" setting. Did this test with many of my lenses, shot an image at every apperture setting i could, and compared Sharpness between them, (its been a while since i did that), but most where sharpest at somewhere between f/2.8 to f/8. If you want to know for sure, might do a test on the lens you are using, to find out the "sharpest" setting of the apperture (in german its called "Förderliche Blende", couldnt find anything about it on Wiki or a propper translation, but i would go with "ideal Apperture"), found an Article about that in german, with some images kinda showing whats going on (had way more sharpness loss on very small Apperture settings in some of my own tests on my lenses, but i guess that is, because i tested mine on an really small sensor and those tests are propably FullFrame Or APS-C Sensor size, where the Effect isnt that extremely visible, unless you stop down really far, like f/64 or more, but it also depens a lot on the lenses itself, as i said.).

609

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!

« on: October 16, 2020, 06:36:11 AM »

Thanks!

Got a Laowa Probe 24mm today. That`s really a weird lens, you can have a lot of new perspectives.

Test Laowa, scaled down resolution to 960+540

i was also thinking about getting one, but the price was holding me back for now. Nice you got one! how is the small apperture working out for you when shooting Highspeed? Would assume that thing needs wicked amounts of light for anything indoors at 1k+ fps....? also, how is the Weight distribution/ balance on the Lens? is most weight of it in the back at the mount, or is the balance point somewhere in the Midle? Just asking, cause if Balance isnt too front heavy, it might allow for some really unusual and Strange shots and angles on an gimbal.

610

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread

« on: October 16, 2020, 06:26:52 AM »

Hello everbody,

i tried my look with some sparklers. Tested from 1,500 fps up to 25,00 fps.
I get the feeling, that I can't focus it any better but it still looks out of focus some times

video available in around 2 hours... i have to go to sleep now an let youtube do it's thing

https://youtu.be/E4sjlqmX4F8

PS: I finally get to test the DAIN program at one of my popcorn clips from my last video.

For only one clip that lastet about 20 seconds my computer took around 3 hours to create a 4 times slower video. ... But the result was stunningly good!!!
But for my kind of video hobby youtube thing, this tooks way too long. But maybe for single clips I can use it. But not for the whole video.

Well, that lens seems to not be the sharpest thing ever (just judging from all the Purple and Green Fringes there), but i think the biggest problem here is also depth of field, the Plane of focus, which is actually REALLY sharp is very shallow for Closeups like this. Filming Highspeed video in combination with the Closeup then also means, you propably cant just close the Lens down as much as you might want, to get an bright enough image. Since the Single Sparks fly all over the place, they are rarely actually in focus even if the Sparkler Stick itself is as sharp as you can get it. Also (i attached a croped Part of an image i took a while ago at an wedding), those Sparks never really look that sharp anyways, unless you have pretty high resolution. As you can see in my image, the Lines of the Sparks flying are always pretty wide and will look out of focus most of the time anyways, then the point where it "sparkles" is just a ton of fine lines and sometimes those also again break up into smaller bits. In those locations where they "sparkle" is a lot going on, which is propably too much detail to propperly capture on 720p resolution, unless you manage to get an even Closer Closeup of just one of the Sparks itself in focus. To sum up what i am trying to say, while it looks unsharp, if you look at single frames of the Video, it is propably as sharp as it will get with that lens at that resolution, you can sometimes see some 1px Wide lines, which are just as much in focus as they could.

611

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Playing back high-speed video

« on: October 15, 2020, 07:35:43 AM »

Hi.

Thanks for the input.

So, here's and example of what I'm going to place as text on my video for inclusion in a scientific paper:

10,488 FPS
583X Slow Motion

I've set the playback speed in AVS Editor (before producing it as a final video for distribution) at 0.3.  So since the original speed is 60 fps from the Chronos, the new speed would be 18 fps.

So, the 583X is calculated as follows:

10.488/18 = 582.67 or 583

Don't know about AVS editor being a ripoff, but for now it is meeting my needs.  It was cheap and I just couldn't justify paying monthly subscription fees for Adobe products, since I'm only producing videos for scientific purposes.

Please let me know if you think my calculations are in error.

Also, is that the correct way to phrase the degree of slow motion; i.e. 583X Slow Motion.

Thanks!

Well, i cant justify paying for Adobe monthly either, but just bought Adobe CS6 Master Collection instead. Last version that You Actually OWN (kinda). for the Subscription thing, that is an actuall ripoff, wouldnt reccomend anyone supporting such marketing BS, unless you for some reason really need some of the latest features, which is rather unlikely, unless you do advanced rotoscoping and Tracking all day or something like that. Otherwise, even the older CS versions are still VERY capeable works of software. And i dont know, why i would pay for that as an service, since they developed it, and that work is done. i have everything i need, and pay for an product, not an service. Payed 300€ for the CS6 MC, and will use it as long as i want. With that subscription stuff, you end up paying way more in not even that much time if you let a bunch of years go by, and once you stop paying monthly, you have nothing. So, just save the Monthly fees you would pay up for a bit and get one of the Older CS packs, done.
 .
 If used in context of any scientific Paper, i would propably call it as "583 times slower than real time" or something like that. ??x SlowMo or stuff like that sure sound cooler if you want to put it on YT or as Title of some Video to get a buch of clicks, but i am not sure if i´d use that in an Actuall serious scientific paper.
 .
 About AVS, again, not trying to upset or attack someone thats using it, and it might even be a very powerfull software, but the Layout is just way too similar to The old windows MovieMaker to not notice it for me. Functionallity also seems very indentical, soooo.... idk. But who knows, as i said i didnt do any further research about it, maybe AVS was first, and then Microsoft made MovieMaker as an ripoff of that. Those two editors are just so strangely similar. But everyone has to start somewhere, i also started with MovieMaker at some point, and had a lot of fun with it, but eventually was too limited by the software and moved on. So, if it fits your needs, go with it.

612

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Review of Chronos 2.1

« on: October 15, 2020, 07:07:21 AM »

No one has come up with a solution to deal with the fan that drags all the dust around the camera. Someone may have made some filters? This is a very big problem after being in the field, I noticed that there was dust on the sensor and dust appeared in all places where there are air ducts, what will happen to the camera after a couple of months of active use

 http://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=594.0
 Have you read this topic?
 Otherwise i highly reccomend this, its about exactly that.

Thank you for the topic, read it and now for the sensor I am calm. But the problem of getting dust inside on the chips and other components remained. I understand correctly that the fan expels air down and to the left of the lens. Meanwhile, all the dust that falls on the fan settles inside the chamber, how much is it advisable to blow with a compressor or special air cans?. Most likely you will need to develop some kind of prototype on a 3D printer with the installation of a filter to protect internal components

Unless you end up filming in some underground Mining plant or in the desert, i see no problem with dust on other Electronic components. I mean, it is just a very specialized Small PC inside, with an special OS running on it. Every PC and Laptop will be just fine, even after Years of use in an Normal Home or even somewhat reasonable Clean Office or industrial environment. Main Problem could be, if you end up getting THAT much dust in there, that something overheats. But as i said, unless you work in some REALLY dirty place with a ton of dust or other Bad stuff in the Air for a long time, its fine. Every Computer Component, Mainboard, Graphics Card ect. has Air with some dust in it blowing over it all the time. And i dont know if you ever did PC repair at any point, but you would propably be surprised with how much dust inside some Laptops will still work kinda fine (eventually they sure overheat, when the dust finally managed to block the Airflow completely....). So, i wouldnt worry about dust inside the Camera itself all that much. If you work in dirty places, might consider cleaning it regularly, cause while a bit of dust buildup sure is fine inside there, you dont want to have an entire kitten worth of Cat hair in there or something like that  .
 Also just as an additional Note about Very dusty places in general: If you look around on ebay a bit for broken lenses, you sometimes will come across a bunch of lenses, someone took to some Shoot whatever into the Desert, mostly this Story ends with an Lens with a bunch of sand inside, which is basically useless except for parts, since all the Sand in there also scratches the Glass itself and other bad things. So, if you can, avoid places THAT dirty, that you have to worry about serious dust buildup inside the Camera, in general, since those are generally places which are just not good for the Camera to be at.
 IF you actually for some reason have to be at such a place, especially for long time, consider one of those waterproof cases or protect your camera in other ways (even an Transparent Plastic Bag would be better than nothing). Whats Waterproof is generally also Dust-Proof, so....
 .
 As for Cleaning The Mainboard with compressed air, sure, you can do that. However, i would be carefull with small home Compressors you might have in your garage or home Shop, since those usually can have moisture or full on water drops inside it, and can also contain Oil Mist. depending on the Age and condition of the Tank and Lines you are using for the Air, there can also be a lot of other Bad things in there like Rust particles and all kinds of dust and dirt. So be carefull with home compressors. Better (usually really expensive) Comperessors have an dedicated Air Filter and Drying unit to only give out Clean, dry Air. If you can make sure, that the air is clean and dry, thats good to use. You dont want Any oil or Water inside that camera...
 As for Air Cans, those can give out pretty clean air, so thats generally fine to use from my understanding.
 I personally dont really use an Compressor (cause i dont have one right now) and just clean my electronics dry if needed.
 As for HOW to clean it, it would maybe be a good idea to actualy open the Camera and get the Boards out to clean them, because otherwise you end up just blowing it around inside the Case. But then IF you get the boards out, the Sensor is now exposed to all the dust you are kicking up with the Compressed air....
 Personally, i am not worried about dust or anything at all with this camera (except for Scratching my sensor with some Weird lens i will try to fit on there one day and hit the Sensor with it....), and would only clean any board or electronics inside if its actually causing problems, like overheating or things like that. By that point in time, which i would expect to be in like 30 Years of normal use for mine, it might be a good idea to open it and check everything inside anyways, since Thermal pads propably are also getting old at that point, so....
 If you want to get it Cleaned propperly, might even send it to the Krontech guys like every 2 Years to get it cleaned, if dust is actually expected to become a problem in your usecase.

613

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Review of Chronos 2.1

« on: October 14, 2020, 07:59:38 PM »

No one has come up with a solution to deal with the fan that drags all the dust around the camera. Someone may have made some filters? This is a very big problem after being in the field, I noticed that there was dust on the sensor and dust appeared in all places where there are air ducts, what will happen to the camera after a couple of months of active use

 http://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=594.0
 Have you read this topic?
 Otherwise i highly reccomend this, its about exactly that.

614

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Playing back high-speed video

« on: October 14, 2020, 01:54:34 PM »

Ok, i just looked up AVS video editor, and from an quick image search and not too much further research that thing looks like a ripoff windows MovieMaker from 15 Years ago....
 Not to upset anyone or something, it might be more capeable than it looks or idk, but i really would reccomend you to switch to an better editing software, if you want to do actuall editing on Video Footage. This kind of software is best used for someone who just wants to cut a bunch of clips from their phone or Point and Shoot together to an holiday movie clip to show your friends and Family, but thats about where the use of that kind of video editing software ends. Sure you propably can do a bunch more with it, but doing anything else than that can get pretty difficult very Quickly in those very basic editing software things, since they are just way too limited. Please really look into upgrading too some more serious software if you want to get professional results and save yourself a lot of frustration.

615

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Playing back high-speed video

« on: October 14, 2020, 01:01:53 PM »

I dont quite understand the Question.
 For once you have playback fps (The Chronos 2.1 out of the box will save .mp4 Video at 60fps if i am not mistaken), and the Framerate you are actually recording at.
 So now just assume, you record something at 6000fps, and didnt change the 60fps Setting for the .mp4 Save, your PC will play the Video back a 100 times slower than Real time. So now in a video editing software, you could also let that 60fps Clip play back at only lets say 6fps, so then Your Video will be 1000 times slower than real time (will look not smooth at all, but its slower...) . But you can also speed it up, so for example play it back at 600fps, which would make the final Video only 10 times Slower than real time. Since most common displays will however have a hard time actually displaying more than 60fps, and most usual computers would also run into some trouble trying to display 600fps, most video editing software will just display every 10th frame, so the actual final video file after rendering it will still be 60fps but played back a lot faster. As far as Playback speed in relation to Record Frame Rate and Real time. I am not at all familiar with AVS, but assume its some not too serious or professional software, because i never heard anything about it (if it is, i might have been missing out...), but if you want to do more advanced video editing, i highly reccomend you to use more professional software, which allows for propper time Remapping and such things. Advantage of more professional Software is also that there is a ton of tutorials about litterally every thing you might want to do somewhere online, which you might not find for other video editing software. There are also quite a few free options, so make sure to check those out. From My own preference i can only reccomend Adobe After Effects, but thats not free software. Some Other People like Premiere Pro, or Final Cut, if you are a Mac User, but there is also Resolve, which has (or at least Had) some kind of free version, so maybe take a look at those. Otherwise, just make sure you set the Save FPS correctly right on the Chronos, so you wont need to convert your files. Or if you want real time Footage, just shoot at 60fps and save at 60. Dont really know what you are trying to do with the .05 in the AVS?
 .
 If the Question there is about how to lable the Actual Speed of the final Video, the best way for normal people (and still correct for all the Other people, that know a bit more about highspeed) to lable speed would in my opinion be speed compared to realtime. so if you say for example shoot something at 1000fps and play it back at 25fps (what i usually do with my 2.1) then It is 40 times slower or 40x SlowMotion.
 .
 And obviously yes, thats kind of the point of a highspeed camera, that the final video you are seeing is not the Speed it actually happened when it was filmed. The Whole Idea is to Shoot a Crazy amout of Frames in a very short time period (like 1000 in a Second) and then Play them back at 25 at a second, so you can stretch the 1000 frames you captured in the Time of that Second out to play back in a time of 40 seconds. (24fps beeing the generally agreed framerate at which single images shown as a "Slideshow" behind each other seem to become fluid motion), so you can either better see what is happening in very fast motions or create more interresting and immersive Visuals. So final Playback speed of your video clip depends not only on the fps its shot at, but also at whatever speed you show those frames.
 Hope this clears this Question up a bit, still not sure, if i even understood your problem you are asking about here?