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Messages - Nikon1

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616
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Review of Chronos 2.1
« on: October 11, 2020, 01:19:26 PM »
If you got the money to get one of those, it propably would be worth it, if you can make the cost back from Client work in a reasonable amount of time. For my usecase this is just a bit tooooo expensive and setup time will make the 15/30 minute Warmup time of the Chronos seem fast, unless you build yourself some serious camera Rig for that.
About at least 30min to 1 Hour was actually my intuitive Guess as to how long it would take to set up a Phantom, but still would be curios as to what takes the most time when actually setting one up

617
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Review of Chronos 2.1
« on: October 11, 2020, 01:12:55 PM »
When we film it takes always at least one hour to get phantoms running...

Really? Why is this? I never had access to a Highspeed-Cam, the Chronos is my first one... I am just curious.
I also never worked with one, but from my experience, the More Professional Cameras Can take quite a bit of time to set up, unless you own them and built yourself a run and Gun Setup you can break down and Set up very Quickly, for example Some Kind of assembly on rails, with Monitors, battery plates mounting and All Cables, Tripod mounting Plates, Cages/ Grips and Lens allready attached all mounted, in a Hardcase, ready to put onto the Tripod on location. If you just have those on rental or work with cameras on a production which are not your own, things can take really long to set up. Just remember, that the Most Phantom Cameras (at least the ones i know of, except the Miro ones) dont come with a internal monitor and i think most only have SDI out also, so you allready need to set up a Monitor, mount the Monitor to the Camera or Tripod somehow, find a fitting cable, maybe need to set up an SDI-HDMI converter, find out how to power the Converter, find out how to power the Camera with propably a V-Mount battery, find out where to mount the Battery/ Batteries, Tripod Plates, then Lens, figure out the Settings, find out later, that you should propably actually set up a Laptop to more easily change setting on the Camera, Set everything and get your framing right, then find out that the monitor is now in an Awkward to look at place, so remount it somewhere else on the Camera or tripod. Also somewhere in between you will propably end up searching for some Adapter, Cable, or Screw/ Connector (and mostly end up using Gaffa Tape anyways, cause the propper Screw is allways missing or something else comes broken...) from an other Cameraguys bag, cause stuff not allways goes as planed. Not sure though about why they need 1 Hour over there at HPC to set their Phantoms up, but that is just what i seen when working on bigger producions where i get an camera from there, and cant use my own stuff. time is really going by fast when Setting up Camera Gear. Can be other reasons there which are special to HS-Cameras or Phantoms, but usually, the more Advanced Production cameras CAN do a lot more stuff than your point and shoot Cam, but this usually also comes at the cost, that a lot more setup is Required. And Since you will mostly rent Cameras like the Phantoms daily or even hourly, you usually cant prepare 3 days bevore your Shooting day and test everyting 5 times to make sure it works 1000%. Maybe Lauri can give more info about why that is, but that would be my best guess anyways.

618
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: October 11, 2020, 09:32:17 AM »
Nice!  8)

With the help of Nikon1 I managed to make my Chronos record with different fps in one shot. Fastest was 1000 fps, then 0.1 fps.

Here it can be seen. Here is discussed how to do it.
Nice indeed!

619
Here is the DNGs From the Camera for this btw. The first one is the image itself, the other one is an Reference image i shot with blocked lens, so basically a black reference. Since it is extremely underexposed, resulting Dynamic range after cleaning it up will be really small. I will let you figure out the magic involved in making this into an somewhat useable image yourself....  ;)

620
so, just did a quick test, shot a door in a VERY DARK room, 12fps is about as low as you can go bevore the image completely drowns in the sensor noise and parasitic exposure. Did an Black Cal at 40fps/359°/0dB, lowest fps i got a propper Black Cal on right now on this Quick test, then set it to 12fps/359°/0dB. Used a Lens on f/1.0 Apperture setting. Image Quality is really bad, but will get a lot better when used with a bit more light. Just wanted to test the limits of Framerate, and at how dark i will still be able to record internally. Thats about the Hard limit, cant go any furhter really. So 25fps internally is very mutch possible to pull of, even looks good in comparison to this, but is still not really worth it to use, as long as Black Calibration wont work on the 25fps setting (would however understand after my testing just now, why the Krontech guys wouldnt put too much effort into making the below 60fps Black-Calibration work, since it has a bunch more problems than just that).

621
Now I wonder how the camera can set be to 25 fps or even less internally while NOT having this issue. I read somewhere there is another sensor mode used then, internally?
Also, THIS issue with parasitic exposure mostly gets a problem when Shutter angel is REALLY low. so for anything like 90° or longer on 25fps this should not yet be a problem because it Just Captures SO MUCH light while the exposure time itself is active, that it wont yet be visible. If you do something like 1/5000s or even shorter on 25fps, i think this can and will become a problem rather fast. but for any kind of reasonable Shutter Angle like 90° or above i dont think you will be able to even see that (would have to test that however to be able to say that for sure...). On Way low Framerates, like 5fps or 1fps/ below (if you can for some Reason make them work internally...) i think parasitic exposure Will become a serious problem in this area. just only from the AMOUNT of light hitting the Sensor in this Really long time. I dont know if you ever messed around with stuff like that, but when i started out with my filmmaking and Photography i did stuff like taking the exact same Image at very different exposure times by adjusting apperture or Even Lighting, and Digital Camera sensors behave very different at really long exposures in the Seconds or even minutes from what they will do in the Millisecond area. no expert about that, but from my low framerate testing, 25fps should be fine, unless you use obscenely low Shutter times, 10fps and below get really weird and seem to start get problems with that parasitic Exposure when not used 359° or rather long exposures.
Well, just tested that, even at 180° or more i get intense Ghosting at 25fps, so just use 50fps.However, just found out kind of a workaround, do Black Cal first at 40fps, then set 12fps or something, image Quality will not be ideal, but it kinda works better than not doing a Black Cal at all, or just getting completely White or black Output. Try to play around with exposure time when doing Black Cal at 40fps to try and get best result.

622
Chronos User Discussion / Re: rec time stop
« on: October 10, 2020, 05:36:38 PM »
Hi Sergey,

That exact mode isn't supported, but there is something similar that may do what you want. I'm going to assume that what you want to do is have the camera record for a predefined amount of time after a trigger event, then stop.

If this is the case, what you can do is set the trigger delay to 100% in the Record Settings -> Trigger Delay screen. Once this is set, start the camera recording. Now, when a trigger occurs (external trigger input only), the camera will stop after recording one full loop in the ring buffer. Behaviourally, this is the same thing as having the ring buffer disabled.

Let me know if this helps, or if you intended something else than what I assumed.

David
I just tried this, after reading SergeyKasin´s post, to write this, and while this actually works fine for like 1000fps on full resolution on the 2.1, it dont really seems to work for like 100fps or 60fps, which is what he maybe tries to do i guess. i also tried this at 50%/50% Pre/post Trigger time on 60fps and it will just stop recording AT trigger Time, like it should do when set to normal 0% Setting. Not sure what is going on there, but for lower framerates this seems to not work propperly for some reason.

623
Now I wonder how the camera can set be to 25 fps or even less internally while NOT having this issue. I read somewhere there is another sensor mode used then, internally?
Also, THIS issue with parasitic exposure mostly gets a problem when Shutter angel is REALLY low. so for anything like 90° or longer on 25fps this should not yet be a problem because it Just Captures SO MUCH light while the exposure time itself is active, that it wont yet be visible. If you do something like 1/5000s or even shorter on 25fps, i think this can and will become a problem rather fast. but for any kind of reasonable Shutter Angle like 90° or above i dont think you will be able to even see that (would have to test that however to be able to say that for sure...). On Way low Framerates, like 5fps or 1fps/ below (if you can for some Reason make them work internally...) i think parasitic exposure Will become a serious problem in this area. just only from the AMOUNT of light hitting the Sensor in this Really long time. I dont know if you ever messed around with stuff like that, but when i started out with my filmmaking and Photography i did stuff like taking the exact same Image at very different exposure times by adjusting apperture or Even Lighting, and Digital Camera sensors behave very different at really long exposures in the Seconds or even minutes from what they will do in the Millisecond area. no expert about that, but from my low framerate testing, 25fps should be fine, unless you use obscenely low Shutter times, 10fps and below get really weird and seem to start get problems with that parasitic Exposure when not used 359° or rather long exposures.

624
Not sure how Black Calibration works on the Software side of things, but from my observations i assume it collects info from the Sensor over some set amount of time and does that in that line pattern you mentioned. However, it seems to only work well down to 60fps. Below that, it works sometimes, but its mostly luck based to get some acceptable image Quality Black Calibration without the lines. What i think happens there is, that the Camera internal whatever doesnt get enough info in the Set amount of time to calculate all the correction values for all the Pixel rows, so some lines will not be fully corrected or even not corrected at all, leading to visible lines in the image. Lowest Framerate i got to work somewhat properly was like 17fps (not sure anymore, could also have been around 21? with a ton of trying around with Shutter angle and a lot of other settings, after multiple attempts to do a Black Calibration, one of them finally worked), below that the Black Calibration just freaked out completely on most framerates and sometimes wouldnt even Produce a image at all. Just a fully black output. I personally would just record at 50fps and go for 359° Shutter, which will give you an 180° Shutter at 25fps, if you just use half of the frames and just ignore the other frames (if you for some reason actually wanted to Record 25fps internally). REAL 25fps internally is too glitchy for me to dare actually use it, especially in a situation where i dont have forever to play around with settings and attempt 20 Black Calibrations and stuff like that....
 I found it to be most stable to just record 60fps however, and since the 2.1 even can do that directly to memory (only .h264 however), i would highly prefer to use that in almost any situation for real time Recording. My nikon J5 also only records in 30 or 60fps, so i am used to recording everything at 60 and then just putting it into an 25fps timeline, never had any issues with stuttering or anything alike, 60 to 25 is fine. also gives you the advantage to allways have somewhat of an Slow-Mo option for every clip you shoot, since you can just play it back frame by Frame on 25fps Timeline or even use a Time Warping plugin and get some Reasonable Slowdown from "normal" footage (Interpolation from 60 to 180fps worked very well for me in a bunch of cases i had to...).
 So, you can do 25 internally, but i really wouldnt, unles i had to. 40fps is about the point untill i found it kind of reliable to get a propper Black Calibration without to much messing around, and 60 and above is very stable on mine (but Small Resolutions and/ or very high framerates in combination with very high gains (digital and/or Analog Gain Close to or maxed out) also are somewhat unreliable on mine to allways get a good black cal. without trying very often).
 I kind of hope this problem with the Black calibration for the Lower framerates gets fixed at some point (so you can at least get a propper Black Cal to Framerates down to 18fps or at least 24 or 25, i guess there is quite a bunch of people that would want to use 25/24 at some point...), also i noticed that the Exposure Slider is brutally Glitchy at most framerates (way) below 60fps, especially in the upper half (180° to 359°) you for example CAN set 359° on the Slider on the Touchscreen, but it wont let you do that via the turn knob. But from 359° down it works again, but not up again... also is extremely laggy sometimes, so you turn it up on the Turn Knob, and the slider moves like a Second later and exposure adjusts. for 60+fps it works fine however. Guess thats mostly software.
 But about the parasitic Sensitivity, you cant do anything about that (i am pretty sure most DSLM without shutter, like my Nikon J5 will still read out the Sensor at 60fps even when shooting a 0,01fps Timelapse, no matter if the data will be used for anything or not (just to display at least) and parasitic Sensitivity is low enough on those sensors that it wont matter at a 60fps readout). Thats a Hardware Characteristic of the Sensor itself, so you cant change that when used in such exteme situations, other than just do "ghost Readouts" to clear it bevore actually capturing a frame to finally be used (or again some Mechanical solution with a Shutter which is not allways easy to do on a highspeed camera). Black Cal and the Stripes from that can maybe (hopefully ) be fixed somewhere in firmware/ Software, but i have no idea at all how much of work that would be or what other problems such a change could bring with it, still hope they will find a way to improve that one day.

625
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Review of Chronos 2.1
« on: October 10, 2020, 02:30:01 PM »

 5. Yes, you very much can, i was not really happy with battery live on the Stock Nikon Batteries, and now use V-Mount 190Wh Batteries. You need to use something that will Convert the Voltage up to the 19V the Chronos needs, i bought this Voltage Converter, i can also use with a lot of other Cameras:
 https://www.globalmediapro.com/dp/A2HG93/Globalmediapro-VLP-U-V-Mount-to-DC-Multi-Voltage-Converter/
 You however need to find a way of mounting it, doesnt have 1/4" Mouning points or anything else, its just a "Standalone" Unit. or find something similar to this, there are plenty different options for such voltage Converting V-Mount Plates, that one just fit my needs best, so i got that one.
 
So, just to also add this information here, Bian from the forum here just sent me a PM, he has the Same one and he has issues with it when using with an SSD because it also consumes more power then, also seems to have trouble keeping up with the power his 2.1 needs sometimes. The Adapter i have and linked here will only provide 2.0A at 19V, which is just a tiny bit to little for the 40W of power the 2.1 needs according to the datasheet. So, just so nobody runs out there and buys one of those and is then surprised. Do your research, and get one which will provide at least 40W at an propper voltage, especially if you dont use it in combination with internal batteries or even intend to use the Chronos with an SSD.

626
Found the post again, it was from skronstein, not tesla500, he explains the "parasitic sensetivity" thing that is going on there (the word i couldnt remember in the above post): 
 http://forum.krontech.ca/index.php?topic=549.msg3265#msg3265
The same thing that is going on with the Ultra short exposures is causing it to over expose on VERY long exposures intervals like timelapse use. That beeing, the time the Sensor should be exposing, beeing VERY short in relation to the delay between readouts, so Extremely small Shutter angles basically. While on max Framerate with Super short exposure times, reading out twice at every frame is absolutely no option (especially if you want framerate as high as possible), i would certainly try using this trick with the Timelapse, if you triggering it externally anyways. an other way to solve this would be to somehow add some form of mechanical Shutter to actually block the Light from the sensor while the almost full Second /10 Seconds of the sensor not beeing used. But that is some very elaborate DIY project to do (you need to also sync it to the camera and get the timing very good on this to actually work well enough to be worth it, and that can get pretty tricky) on your own, also only works with lenses with pretty long flange distance to have enough room for the shutter and would also need to be mechanically integrated into a propper adapter or something. Or find a way to Open close the apperture on a Lens which allows for Fully closed Iris, but that is just as complicated to do if not more so. Guess it might be also worth a try if you had some camera to steal parts from and  plan to do a ton of mixed Timing Timelapse/ Slowmo Stuff and have enough patience to figure out timing on the Shutter and how to mount it. but i think it still should be a lot cleaner and simpler to try and do it with the Double readout thing?

627
Well, those sensors arent perfect. They will still "collect" light even when not read out, trough some mechanics inside the Silicon itself, which i am not as much into to fully understand. But to break it down, it kind of works like an old film camera (which is why the higher Quality cine lenses will have an apperture Setting "C" for fully closed to actually block all light when the Camera is not used and for example sitting in Bright midday sunlight while you are not actually shooting...). When you just run it at 24fps, it will expose propperly, and no issues there, because Light Leaks around the Mechanical shutter are so little, and the Film rushes throug so fast, you wont even notice. but when the Film is sitting there for long enough, small gaps or things like that can produce light leaks which can produce ghost images or even fully expose a frame or part of the Film strip. Its kind of how it works with the Sensor here in the Chronos, but the physics behind that are completely different. Result however is pretty similar. So when reading out the Sensor at anything over 60 to 100fps, stuff is going normally. Have also already tried to do some Timelapse stuff with the 2.1 and stuff gets pretty weird when going far below 60fps. Some seems to be Software glitches because of Black Calibration basically failing at low fps, some of it is due to this (forgot the correct term how this is called...) Exposure even when the Sensor should not expose. In your case, when only reading out Frames every ethernity, the sensor will still collect TONS of light, even if it actually shouldnt. Just learned about this not too long ago from some post on this forum from i think it was Tesla500 himself, and finally understand, why those DSLRs and even Most DSLMs still have mechanical Shutters, since they allways seemd SO obsolete for me, when electronic Shutters without moving parts could do the same thing. But one of the main thing they will do is blocking the Light to actually fix the kind of issue you are having, where they would have problems with correct exposure, Motion blur and all kinds of other bad stuff.
 .
I think how i would approach to solve the issue you are having is to trigger it at 1000fps at first, then (i think untill like 100fps will be fine. Do you want to drop the fps fast gradually or as an actuall instant drop from 1000fps to 1fps on the Next frame?) at some point (or at the exact time you start with the first 1fps Thing, when using a hard "Cut" in framerate) like 200fps, trigger twice for every frame, but at a 1/1000s delay for the next frame, so like trigger first frame at 0sec, the next at 0,001s, the next at 1,0sec, the next at 1,001sec, the next at 2,0sec, the next at 2,001sec and so on. Then the first of the Two frames should be over exposed from all the Unwanted light the Sensor Collected while not beeing read out, but the next one should be perfectly exposed. If you still have issues then, try triggering 3 times every second, and only use the last frame. then just sort every next frame out and delete them in editing (can be done really simply and quickly in most editing software, can help you doing that in Adobe After Effects or Blender, not too familiar with resolve or final Cut/ motion/premiere, but i am pretty sure those and most others will also have a way of doing that one way or the other.). Since the Sensor was then (at the Time when capturing the Second frame) just read out 1/1000s ago, it should again produce the Same image, as it did at full 1000fps, when Readout delay on frames was also 1/1000s. I have no idea about the Code you posted, or how to produce a signal that would trigger "twice" every second, like i above described, but i am pretty sure you will find a way to code this (i guess that would still be a ton easier to do in code than on some Simple inexpensive signal generator without some Fancy controler in it, without some serious trickery or expensive Hardware).

628
Hello Nikon1,

thanks again. In your linked cleaning tool it is stated that these are for CCD CMOS sensors. Now How are theses things used? Do they cover the whole sensor size all in one step or does one have to collect the dust by "walking" step by step? Actually I don't really get who they work. These stickers, where are they put? Onto the sensor? On the stamp?

I found a similar system at Amazon, but in customer reviews it is said that the stamps can stick that much to the sensor, that parts from the stamp will be left at the surface.

And I also wonder if I could use cleaners for APS-C or MFT-size too? What do you think about these?
I was honestly just to lazy to go and look what brand mine was, but just went and looked, and yes, the ones you linked from Amazon is the Exact one i own. I am very happy with that one and got quite a bit of use out of it. I at some point bought an extra refill pack of those Tape Strips from the same Brand, and while this is propably a bit on the Expensive side (the Tape Strips are also not cheap, and the Package isnt that big...), i found it well worth it. I never had any kind of problem with it sticking to any sensors, thats propably what you pay for with those more expensive brands. Wouldnt doubt that the cheaper ones from china can leave parts behind on the Sensor or have a lot of other problems. The Cheaper ones also seem to have "Sharp" edges While the Eyelead one has well Rounded edges and also is very high Quality gel in generall. Have personally never use anything else, but am very happy with the eyelead brand one and can 100% reccomend it.
 .
 Now about how those work/ are used:
 You can clean any kind of Sensor Size with those (meaning the Larger ones), but i wouldnt try to clean any sensors smaller than the Gel Stamp itself, which for mine would be 1/2" or 2/3" Sensor as a minimum Size, so like Chronos 1.4 Sensor size and maybe a bit smaller, but not much smaller. You use this Cleaning tool in The Cleanest room you have access to with really good lighting. you start by opening the protective cover of the Gel tip and start to touch the upper left corner of the Sensor surface (if your sensor is at least 3x the surface area of the Gel stamp surface) gently, you just want it to stick there (roll it over a bit when lifting up), dont actually press with force. Then carefully pull it off the sensor again in a rolling motion. Everytime after touching the Sensor, you need to press the Gel surface onto the Sticky tape. Make sure to allways use a new spot on the Tape to not transfer any dust, dirt or other stuff back to the Sensor when touching it again. So its best to allways leave a bit of a gap between the spots you touch/ use on the Tape. After you transferred the Dirt from the Sensor to the Gel and then onto the Tape, the Gel is clean again, and you can go on with cleaning the Rest of the Sensor. Next, put the Gel on the Sensor again, with a bit of overlap to the Point where you touched it last, to cover every bit of surface on the Sensor. I work my way from Upper Left Corner to the Right and then in Rows downwards usually, but you can do whatever works best for you. Just make sure that you have cleaned all the Surface area of the Sensor, and allways cleaned the Gel tip of on the Tape after touching the Sensor, and throw away the used tape. With the Rounded edges of this Eylead one, you can also go in there and for example if the Whole Sensor is clean, but you have one or two bits of dirt on there that bother you, you can just use the Edge or the Corner (or even the tapered Sides of the Gel Tip work sometimes) and roll it over, to just catch this one bit of dust, and save yourself a lot of time and tape. I personally usually use really small sensors (1"/ Super 16mm), so i cut up my Tape Strips into halves, since that is more than enough to clean my size of sensor with the Size Tape and Gel tip i got in my set, and can get double the amount of uses out of the rather expensive tape. If you end up just using the Corner or edge to just pick out single bits of dust most of the time, it might be usefull to cut even smaller strips or Squares of tape. For cleaning a full size 2.1 Sensor i however guess you will end up using most of the area of one Tape Strip.
 As i allready said, with this process you can even clean Medium Format Sensors if you wanted to and are patient enough. But for that i would reccomend an really clean room, because otherwise more dust will collect on the Huge sensor in the Long time you are cleaning it, than you can remove in that time. For smaller sensors a reasonable clean room (No dust, no Carpet! also close Windows and doors to avoid dust getting kicked up by airflow) its usually fine, but you still want to get done somewhat fast and not take forever with the cleaning (still take your time and work Carefully, you dont want to scratch or damage anything). Best Practice is also to allways put the Gel tip back into the Protective cover as fast as possible and Keep it closed tight if you are not using it, never put it down onto the Table or any other Surface. if you are not holding it or using it, just put it back into the Cover. Also cover up the Sensor with an Clean Camera Body Cap or a Clean Lens (clean backside especially), when you are done.  I think this should be about all the info you need on this topic to use one of those, if you still have any questions, let me know. The higher Quality ones like the eyelead can hold up pretty long. I used mine about once or twice per month in average over the last 2 to 2 1/2 Years and its still going strong.
 When Cleaning the Sensor, still be carefully, while there is an IR/ UV-Filter glass in front of the Actuall sensor, and its a lot harder to damage the sensor with a cleaning tool like this than for example those "fancy Q-Tip things to wipe the Sensor down with some kind of cleaning fluid" (also a lot harder to actually get the Sensor clean with most of those, because they will make stripes from the Wiping if not used propperly, just like cleaning windows glass. cleaning the Sensor wet like this can be nessercary sometimes, if you get a ton of bodily grease onto the sensor or something alike, but then just dont touch your sensor after eating chicken (or just avoid touching it in generally...) and you should be fine. For dust alone, and even reasonable amounts of fat, the Gel Cleaning Kits work very well), IF you end up scratching the IR/ UV-Filter (i bought one Spare when i ordered my 2.1, just because i know i propably will end up damaging that one sooner or later propably), and need to replace it, there will be the actuall sensor exposed while you exchange them, and if you end up getting dust on there, which is rather likely, you then need to clean the Sensor itself, which puts you on the risk of also scratching that. And if you Scratch the Sensor itself, you are really screwed, cause that gets really expensive. So do anything you can to avoid scratching it in the First place, for example just avoid getting your sensor dirty, so you dont need to clean it every other day.

629
Chronos User Discussion / Re: Review of Chronos 2.1
« on: October 07, 2020, 12:48:17 PM »
Thanks for the different feedbacks on the Chronos 2.1-HD.

While the image correction, screen, fans and lens mount options are being worked on, we highly recommend to:
- save the footage via the eSATA connector for an optimal transfer speed (it is about 2 times faster than using USB and 3 times faster than using an SD card). This is even more important when saving at uncompressed formats if wait time is a constraint.
- light up your scene as much as possible and use a 0dB gain for a better image quality: shooting at 1000fps generally requires 5 times more light than regular 24fps videos to achieve the same amount of exposure. Lenses with a wide aperture are also recommended especially if you are limited in the amount of light you can supply, provided that your setup allows for a shallow depth of field.
- perform a black calibration with the lens fully covered after changing either the resolution, frame rate or shutter speed after making sure your camera has warmed up properly
- run the camera on the latest software version 0.5.1
- play around with the Set Custom option and Custom Color Matrixes in case the presets white balance conditions are not satisfying enough for your application and see how it turns out.


All these conditions I fulfill and do, but in the black areas the stripes are very visible.
Black calibration after switching on and changing any parameters.
1. it is also very bad there is no automatic stop recording when filling the cache, if You can add it, then the work with the camera would be much better.
2. It is also very lacking to be able to display all the information on an external screen
3. it is also not clear why all the settings take up half the screen, they can be made only by swipe or by clicking on the wheel.
4. very much slows down wifi, provided that the camera is connected to a 1000Mb router and the phone is working at 5GHz
5. As you can power the camera via v-mount? These batteries produce a maximum of 15 volts, and the camera requires a power supply of 17-20 volts. Where can I find a v-lock to power the camera
6. also in the new version, you can slightly increase the thickness of the camera and add space for installing ssd inside the cameras, this would add reliability and more chances of not losing material. All you can accidentally touch the wire and break it or pull out, well, extra wires
1. I dont quite understand this problem, could you not just use pre-Trigger? will only record untill memory is full after pressing trigger, so technically what you want... or am i missing something?
 2. i personally am very happy, that you could get an clean Signal out of it, without any overlays, but maybe try using the web interface, that kind of allows for all the info and the Image on an external Screen, but this is kind of a sketchy setup since there is a ton of lag on the Image itself and it also doesnt play fluidly.
 3. This can and should actually be improoved, absolutely agree on that. A bunch of different options on display layout would be really good to have, for example just live image, all the Info like it is now, and something like where you still see all the info, but as a half transparent overlay in small font, so you could get most usage out of the Screen itself. Also still hoping there will be an Histogramm at any point added.
 4. I dont know how this slows down Wifi, but maybe try using a wired connection if Wifi is a problem?
 5. Yes, you very much can, i was not really happy with battery live on the Stock Nikon Batteries, and now use V-Mount 190Wh Batteries. You need to use something that will Convert the Voltage up to the 19V the Chronos needs, i bought this Voltage Converter, i can also use with a lot of other Cameras:
 https://www.globalmediapro.com/dp/A2HG93/Globalmediapro-VLP-U-V-Mount-to-DC-Multi-Voltage-Converter/
 You however need to find a way of mounting it, doesnt have 1/4" Mouning points or anything else, its just a "Standalone" Unit. or find something similar to this, there are plenty different options for such voltage Converting V-Mount Plates, that one just fit my needs best, so i got that one.
 6. While that propably would be nice, i think its a bit problematic to implement into the camera itself. If you allready rig the Chronos up with a V-Mount battery and -Battery-Plate, maybe just rig it up on Rails or find a way to Put it under the Camera like a huge Battery grip. a standard Size SSD should hide pretty elegantly on top or under a V-Mount plate. I get however what you are saying about the Cables, havent really got around to use my 2.1 for real work, but allready managed to drop it and damaged the BNC-Port. So a Cage is pretty much needed if you want to make sure that nothing happens to the connections. Have to say however, the rest of the Cam barely got scratched, pretty impressed. Integrating a Port or Space for an Internal SSD would propably also reduce general strength of the Camera body, so thats not nessercarily the best idea. I am trying to design a Battery grip kind of thing for mine with an Integrated Cage, if i finally get around to do that, and you are interrested, i could share that at some point.

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Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!
« on: October 06, 2020, 10:01:14 AM »
Water @ 1000fps

https://youtu.be/K-X1P76wVGw

Gain: 0 dB
Lens: Sigma 50-100
WB: 5600K
edited with Davinci Resolve 16
Pretty sure this looks amazing bevore compression, but YT-Compression mutilated the first half of that video really badly. The Later Shots without so much going on at the same time looked very nice, even after YT was done with it.

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