Messages

736

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Extracting still images

« on: April 25, 2020, 08:17:29 PM »

Hi, there is quite a number of people using the Cinema DNG format for video, since it will give the Highest Quality Output data possible and even allow for heavy Image Manipulation in Editing afterwards.
Since Video is Basically just a lot of still images, and the Cinema DNG format will give very high Quality, you will be able to extract still images from the Footage with no problem.
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 I am Not familliar and havent even heard about that other camera brand you mentioned, but Sharpness / Resolution of Still images on an Chronos Camera comes down to a number of factors. One of the More important ones is the choice of Lens, use of Proper setting and use of enough light. You will need quite a lot of light if you want to shoot at one µs Exposure!
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 For highest Image Resolution and Quality i can reccomend buying an Chronos 2.1 HD, this will give you an 1920x1080px Resolution image at ~1000fps. You didnt Mention, if you need Color for your Application, but if it is more important to you to get the sharpest, Highest Quality Image Possible, i would highly reccomend thinking about getting a Monochrome Version of the Camera. The Monochrome Version will give you an very Sharp image, while the Color Version will be a tic less sharp (this is due to the basics of Bayer-Sensors, which are used in any Color Camera today... If you want to know more about that, i can explain in detail).
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 As far as Minimum Exposure Time (1µs) goes, the Hardware /Sensor in the Chronos Cameras, should be, as far as i Recall, able to do way shorter exposure Times than 1µs. It is just limited to this value because of legal reasons and i think it is because you will need an very special official permit to export cameras that go beyond 1µs (Like about any other Camera like this), i dont know how much work it would be, but you can ask the Krontech Staff, if they would sell/ Modify an Special camera firmware / Camera unit for you which can do shorter exposure times. The Hardware is Capeable of doing so.
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 Hope this Helps

737

Chronos User Discussion / Re: External battery for continuous power

« on: April 13, 2020, 02:46:05 PM »

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Gondor-V-mount-battery-power-supply-5V-7-2V-12V-14-8V-D-TAP-GD-PS-03/322756420479?hash=item4b25c8237f:g:fKcAAOSwhYdZv1wL

738

Chronos User Discussion / Re: External battery for continuous power

« on: April 13, 2020, 02:45:46 PM »

How do you power the camera with a V mount battery?

For example with one of those Adapters Here, which you could mount to a Camera-Rig with rods or find another Way of mounting it:

739

Chronos User Discussion / Re: External battery for continuous power

« on: April 13, 2020, 11:54:50 AM »

Not very reliable connection to power the camera, it is better to use a v-mount battery

i 100% agree on that. Cheap V-Mount Batteries can be bought for about the Same Price for the Same Capacity and sometimes even Have USB-Power-Out also, if you really wanted to use USB for some Reason. Just way better Value in My opinion, also V-Mount Batteries tend to have Pretty strong housings which are built to be able to handle quite some Abuse....

740

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread

« on: April 08, 2020, 07:15:20 AM »

ok, well, i thought you had way more Light there.Kind of surprised, that you can record 100kFPS with only 300W Lights, but you also just have that small egg to light, so....

741

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Chronos 1.4 Footage Thread

« on: April 08, 2020, 05:59:07 AM »

I guess Kit lens or some other cheap C-Mount Prime Lens + Obscene amounts of Light + the New Beta Firmware

742

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Lighting question

« on: April 05, 2020, 09:19:02 AM »

About the Monochrome vs. Color- Thing: There are a lot of advantages to the Monochrome version, if you dont actually need color, you should really think about getting a Mono one if you are only doing diagnostics. Main Advantages of the Monochrome: You need literally half the Amout of light, and its quite a bit sharper.   
   
   About the 5000K: Those Kelvin Numbers (5000K / 6000K) tell you the Color Temperature, CRI is completly independent from Color Temperature itself. Color Temperature tells you, how "Warm" or "cold" a Light is. So if you put an Light with an Color Temperature of 2500K next to an Light with 10.000K Color Temperature, you will see, that the 2500K one will look very "Warm" (Yellow/Orange) and the 10.000K one will look "Cold" or Blue next to the other one. CRI on the Other Hand doesn´t really have anything to do with The Color Temperature. It is more about the Quality of the Color, and how well the Light will Reproduce Skintones and Other Important colors. Its quite Important for any Kind of Filmmakinkg and Photography, but for Technical stuff and Diagnostics it is indeed not. So for your Application you could use even very low CRI Lamps, if you wanted to save a buck or two.   
   
   Now about the Power: That depends on a lot of different things.... For One, it depends a lot on Framerate. if you are only using the Chronos for 60 to a few 100 Fps (maybe even 1000) and could afford to shoot always with an wide open Lens (Background will be unsharp and only a very small Layer of the Image will be in Focus!), 120W Might be enough to Make your Image Bright enough to see what is going on. But, as NiNeff allready pointed out, if you want to use higher Framerates (way above 1000Fps), 120W LED will look like nothing pretty Quickly. Also keep in Mind Object size (Whatever you are Filming) and Lamp Size. Light will drop in intensity by Square if you double Distance. That Means, if you have a Large Scene, you need crazy amounts Of Light. Also, if you shoot very small Objects, you can get way more Brightness with an Small Chip Close to the Object, than with an Large Area Lamp (Which just from its own size cant get the same amount of power that close to you object).   
   
    so, in Summary: If you only want to do lower Framerate Diagnostics-Stuff with Medium Sized Objects and have enough space, 1 to 6 of those vehicle Lamps will propably work well enough for you. but for anything else, maybe think about High-Power-Single-Chip LEDs and maybe even an Monochrome Camera.

743

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Lighting question

« on: April 05, 2020, 03:45:48 AM »

They for sure look pretty bright, but keep in mind, that most of the higher power LED-Chips can Actually MAKE YOU BLIND, because of how powerfull they are (if watched too long directly from Short distance). If i could take a guess, i would say that those Car-LEDs propably are 5 to 20 Watt each at max. that is sure bright for any light on a car, but not so bright compared to those High-Power LED-Chips.... The "classic" ones, that have been around for many Years have 100W Power, Now there are even Newer Versions with 200, 300, 500 and seemingly even higher Power Versions Like 1000 Watt! Just watch the video, which i linked in the other thread from the Beyond the Press chanel on YT. Those Lights are so bright, that they needed to wear two pairs of Sunglasses to be even able to see anything, because it just was THAT bright. Those are no joke. Pretty sure that LED-Setup they used to Light the Chronos Ring Footage would be able to overpower the sun by quite a bit at that distance....         
       However, i would seriously be impressed if any LED for Cars had more than 20 to 40 Watt. Additionaly, like SergeyKashin allready said, they most likely have pretty bad color, since they just need to make it bright, and your eye doesnt care that much about Color, but cameras do very much. Most of those cheaper LEDs, which are most likely used in those Car ones will not be a proper white color, but rather a bit green tinted. You Could Propably still use them (i did use cheap ones, but its a pain...), if you know very well about this, and how to correct for it, but as soon as you have mixed Lighting Sources (Sunlight/ tungsten), you will clearly see the green color cast from the Cheap LEDs. That is one of the Reasons, why Bright and high Quality Professinal LED-Lamps built for Cinema and Photography tend to be rather pricey, since they (mostly) use the more expensive LED-Chips with better color (higher CRI=Color rendering index)

744

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Issue with horizontal darkening w/ bright things

« on: April 03, 2020, 03:51:50 PM »

As soon as I get my camera I will make myself powerful light sources for shooting to save on buying. At the moment, I found a 600W led chip, but I need to look for a more powerful one around 1000 watts

I was also planning on making my own high power light source. Currently I have a ~30W array that is adequate for slower frame rates.
I got about 40x 7W LED COBs, I just need something suitably sized and priced to mount them on. Basic extruded aluminium heatsinks are surprisingly expensive (compared to the price of these LEDs from aliexpress haha).

Unless you want it to be very Portable, you can build some Cheap Water-Cooling Setup for it very cheap.Just get some Used/ Old Car Radiator and Find a Way to water-Cool the LED-Chips.As some Experiments with DIY (not done by me, can link, if you want...) Watercooling for Computer CPUs Showed, even just a Flat Plate of Aluminum or Copper with water Flowing on the Back of it will do surprisingly well in cooling Powerfull Chips. So just find a Way to Seal the Backside of the Plate and connect some Tubes to it and a Pump.If you are not running it for very long, you could even steal the Idea from Krontechs Light-Setup and dont even use an Radiator. Just use a Bucket of cold water and change the Water, when it gets to warm for your Liking. See Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4u2xmk5Qys      I still am not quite sure, what i want to use for my array, since i want it to be fairly portable. For now i use some Old Server CPU-Heatsinks with Heatpipes, those can be get for very low price and Can handle a ton of heat, even with little Airflow (Big, Silent fans!)

745

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Issue with horizontal darkening w/ bright things

« on: April 01, 2020, 08:40:33 AM »

Use more light, because cameras like the Vision Research Phantom have noise when the sensor sensitivity is increased and use a lot of powerful light sources to compensate


Here is one example of the light:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1247485-REG/mole_richardson_6371_1600_watt_tener_led.html


As soon as I get my camera I will make myself powerful light sources for shooting to save on buying. At the moment, I found a 600W led chip, but I need to look for a more powerful one around 1000 watts

Also, wow, that is one expensive Lamp right there in the B&H Link.... just checked... 10k.   
I have an 1200W and an 600W HMI Lamp, but those will flicker for High Framerate Shots (anything above 50fps will Flicker pretty badly with that Lamp).So i will definatly need to get something powerfull with LED, cause Tungsten Lamps will just need crazy amounts of Power to be anywhere near as bright....

OK man
As soon as there is any news about the light, I will definitely let you know. Also, the led chips that I found at 600 watts are with a high color rendering index of 95, but I do not want to advise them yet, as soon as I do the tests, I will share links to them

Thanks a lot!   
High CRI is always welcome, since those cheap ebay ones are mostly far from good.   
I bought a few pretty cheap 100W ones and those where somewhat decent, but still far from perfect in terms of color.   
Still, one of the best ways to get a ton of light for cheap.   
I also tried those 100W ones with integrated driver circut. Those will mostly flicker, but i did just feed them DC current @320V or something like that, and then they will give Flicker-Free Light even at 1000+fps.   
Really Like those integrated Driver ones, cause you can just build an Array with just connecting them All to Mains without need for some Crazy Power Supply (Speaking about an Multi-1000W Array...). But a few Bigger ones (1000W chips) will also just make the Setup very easy, cause then you wont need to wire up like 60 or 90 single LED-Chips.   
Absolutely looking forward to your testing if you manage to find something that Powerfull!Thanks!

746

Chronos User Discussion / Re: SSD Cage for Chronos 1.4/2.1-HD - 3D-printable

« on: April 01, 2020, 07:23:41 AM »

This is an SSD holder for the Chronos 1.4 and 2.1-HD. This accessory is invaluable when shooting DNG on the go; save speed is vastly improved compared to an SD card. The camera can write about 60MB/s to a SATA SSD instead of ~12MB/s to most SD cards. DNG saves at about 12FPS on the 2.1-HD and about 18FPS on the 1.4, at full resolution.

What is the maximum speed of the SATA connector? And in General, all the connectors through which you can write files, how can you find out their maximum recording speed? USB, SDcard.
camera 2.1

Or is it the maximum write speed of 12 MB / sec, regardless of the speed that the SD card can write

Not Quite sure, but i think its more of an internal Limit bevore you will hit the Limits of the SD-Cards or SSDs (There are sure some Pretty slow and old SD-Cards or drives that will limit Write Speed, but i am not talking about that...). At Least, if you have an reasonable fast Card or Drive, i would expect the Bottleneck to be more inside the Camera in Reading out The Data from RAM/ Compressing / Computing /Whatever happens else to the Sensor data inside the Camera.

747

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Issue with horizontal darkening w/ bright things

« on: April 01, 2020, 07:17:34 AM »

Use more light, because cameras like the Vision Research Phantom have noise when the sensor sensitivity is increased and use a lot of powerful light sources to compensate


Here is one example of the light:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1247485-REG/mole_richardson_6371_1600_watt_tener_led.html


As soon as I get my camera I will make myself powerful light sources for shooting to save on buying. At the moment, I found a 600W led chip, but I need to look for a more powerful one around 1000 watts

Also, wow, that is one expensive Lamp right there in the B&H Link.... just checked... 10k.   
I have an 1200W and an 600W HMI Lamp, but those will flicker for High Framerate Shots (anything above 50fps will Flicker pretty badly with that Lamp).So i will definatly need to get something powerfull with LED, cause Tungsten Lamps will just need crazy amounts of Power to be anywhere near as bright....

748

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Issue with horizontal darkening w/ bright things

« on: April 01, 2020, 07:12:07 AM »

Use more light, because cameras like the Vision Research Phantom have noise when the sensor sensitivity is increased and use a lot of powerful light sources to compensate


Here is one example of the light:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1247485-REG/mole_richardson_6371_1600_watt_tener_led.html


As soon as I get my camera I will make myself powerful light sources for shooting to save on buying. At the moment, I found a 600W led chip, but I need to look for a more powerful one around 1000 watts

I only found those 500W white LED-Chips from China as the biggest thing on Ebay. If you find any bigger ones, like 1000W, please post a link or something, cause i would also like to get some.   
But for me ist the Same, i will build an array (Planing to do a few thousand Watt array), but only after i got the Camera. Have a Few 100W chips right now, but those arent bright enough if i want to get some Soft Light (Like Bounce the Light off an wall or something alike) in bigger Scenes.   

749

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Post Chronos 2.1 clips here!

« on: March 28, 2020, 09:16:21 PM »

Chronos 2.1 Review from Beyond the press     
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFOOY8MjChc

750

Chronos User Discussion / Re: Introducing Chronos 2.1 HD!

« on: March 16, 2020, 10:09:00 AM »

On our Chronos 2.1 using the new chronos-unstable-20200314.img, I was not able to set a frame size of less than 640x96, and thus no framerate of more than 24k fps.

Well, 24kfps is still not that bad. Lets see what the next updates will bring.