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Messages - muringuets

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31
Chronos User Discussion / Re: NO BATT - Message
« on: March 03, 2021, 01:22:49 PM »
Which FW you're using?

I had similar problems on FW 0.50 on my camera (1.4). My battery is a bit old and is kept inside the camera all the time, sometimes I got the 0% BATT when using AC, but it changed after messing around the menus...

Now on FW 0.60 I got no problems, although the battery seems to keep only ~40% of charge after a lot of charging time...


32

 .
 Well, i just read that again, and tesla500 states 12fps for the 2.1 at full res. The 18fps you are thinking about where actually for the 1.4 Save-Speeds.
 So, with 13fps you are allready better than what he said.
 .
 I finally got myself an m.2 with an Adapter (also first got an NVME one, which wont work with the Cheap Adapters, needs to be an NGFF M.2 ...) and i am getting around 10fps Average for DNG; a bit over 10fps (like 10,5 average) for Raw16; about 13fps Average for Raw12; and 25fps Average for H.264 (full Resolution Saves on the 2.1)


Sorry, I have a 1.4 camera... After exporting longer files I managed to get 18 fps, so everything seems to be working after all...

33
Well, another batch of tests here.

I bought a NVME SSD, so the cheap adapter linked above would not work. Opted to sell this SSD and buy a new one...

Opted for a regular sized 2.5" SSD.

Got much better speeds with this new setup, using simpler (cheaper) parts, tested only Raw 16 bit export and got 13 fps, not the 18 fps stated above, but I can test EXT3 file system and other types of exports to check speeds... Anyway, happy with the results for now.

The question remains whether a M2 (not NVME) would result in better speeds...

34
Chronos User Discussion / Re: External storage options
« on: November 18, 2020, 07:19:49 AM »
Have you tried connecting the m.2 directly via SATA Port? Should be Faster according to the First link in the Reply i posted above...?

Need a diferent adapter, ordered a while back, but it will take at least a month to arrive...

35
Chronos User Discussion / Re: External storage options
« on: November 17, 2020, 01:24:36 PM »
Just posted on another thread (SSD case one), I tested a M2 NVME drive with poor results. It connects through USB, so not sure if that's the problem, anyway, managed to get only 8fps...

 

36
Just installed a M2 NVME SSD drive (Crucial P1 500GB) using a external case that connects directly with a USB port (resembles a flashdrive). Testing transfer speed on computer goes as far as 300MB/s for large files.

Tested camera (C1.4) export with DNG, TIFF, H.264, RAW, managed to get only 8fps. Tested on FAT32 and EXT3, no difference...

A bit disappointed with the speed, I was hoping for the 18fps, perhaps Tesla500 has something to add on this.

Should I try a SATAP cable with a "less fancy" SSD (2.5" format with printed case)?


37
Today i finally got around to start Milling out an Copper Heatsink, but sadly i messed up with one Measurement on the Contact pad for the Sensor when rough-Milling, and now its a full Millimeter to small, so i have to start over again another Day. Surface finish i am Getting on the Finished Surfaces themself, is so good that i would not even Bother to do any grinding or Polishing on them For now. But first i need to make one in the first place, without reading the dimensions from the wrong pad...

Nice job! Keep us posted, curious for the temperature tests!

38
You're pretty much on top of everything, I've read your post about the Noctua fan, nice to see the results.

Lapping the cooler won't do any help because of the thermal pad, correct. I probably didn't make myself clear in my previous comment, but I meant that it would be preferable to pick a thermal pad with a better conductivity (Gelid has some fancy ones last time I looked)

I like the idea of carving fins.

Also, from what I read, a lot of the problems in image quality derive from heating, so you need to keep doing black calibration every now and then...

39
Well I wouldn't go for water cooling, although switching the aluminum passive cooler for a copper one, with proper sanding and polishing on the contact surface and a proper thermal paste (it's an adhesive right now, need to study better options for that part) should be the best option for a passive cooler.

I'm not very familiar with the inner parts of the camera yet, but passive coolers get hot really fast, so, unless there's a good air flow inside the camera, switching for copper won't be so beneficial. Assuming a good airflow it shoud drop the sensor temperature on a few degrees celsius.

I would love to see the technical drawings for the cooler, I'd get it done.

Sorry for my English  :)

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