I dont really know what you mean by remote Trigger Mod, but you can just connect a really long BNC / SDI Cable to the BNC Port on the Camera and Connect an Trigger to the other end, which would give a very easy setup. Longest Standard BNC Cable i was able to find from an very quick search was 100 Meters, which would be something like 328 feet in length if my math is correct.
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https://www.ebay.de/itm/383383664906?hash=item594372790a:g:6~AAAOSwb0BeKC9V .
These are still reasonably affordable, but if you still need longer range, there are very inexpensive BNC-Inline Couplers available, which will allow you to Chain up Individual BNC-Cables to for example make two 100m ones into an 200m long one (656 feet).
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https://www.ebay.de/itm/312062518509?hash=item48a86024ed:g:5-kAAOxySoJTU-zy .
The Connector is obviously a weak-Point if in rough use or exposed to the Elements, but for casual use without rain and things like that, that would probably be about the Cheapest.
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If you want longer than 100m Cable length, there are SDI-Cables available (which basically are just BNC Cables that are rated to carry a specific amount of Data for Video Signals), up to 200m (656 Feet) Standard, and you can get even longer Custom made ones, but they cost a bit more. Would be well worth the extra cost if in rough use at least for me, and if i actually needed the Additional Range. .
https://www.ebay.de/itm/153083772536?hash=item23a480fe78:g:tJAAAOSwWDRbOgxg .
I at this point assume you know how to attach a Trigger button to an BNC Cable and said cable to the Camera, and also own some kind of such a trigger. If not, let me know, then i can also give info on where to get one or how to build one.
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For the Shutter speed / Shutter angle thing mklinger was talking about, i absolutely agree. Set your Framerate and Resolution, then Set aperture on your lens and your shutter angle for whatever exposure / brightness you want.
the Shortest Exposure of 1µs on the Chronos is plenty short and will give a very dark image. at 1µs and Shorter you get into territory of Exposure Time where they capture close-Up Footage of Nukes, so i doubt your Rockets would be THAT bright. If you still manage to overexpose on such short Exposure times, close down your Aperture a lot and make sure you use 0dB analog Gain and 0dB Digital Gain. Would be very surprised if you still needed ND Filters on top of that, but if you do, use them.
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To actually figure out the Correct settings, i would advise you to do at least two tests before shooting anything critical. I dont know how expensive or difficult it is to redo your tests, but for Stuff like Explosions that cant be redone and have no known reference to base settings of off, they usually do some Scaled down tests, like here:
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https://youtu.be/ThLtMhiak-Q?t=100 .
In that case they already about knew that it would be very bright, set the camera to their best Estimate, did the Small-Scale test, adjusted Exposure (and then still overexposed a bit on the Actual Shot). Very similar like they also did it with the Footage of those First Nukes and things like that.
In general, especially if you never did anything like this before and are not familiar with how the Camera behaves in situations like that, try to underexpose quite a bit, its most of the times Brighter than you think (also, while recovering Shadows or heavily boosting the Exposure in Editng reduces Image Quality on the Chronos Cameras quite a bit, its still better than overexposing, because at that point all information on the Overexposed areas is just completely gone and pure White. so you would want to rather underexpose than overexpose in that situation) from every time i shot stuff with big Fires / Explosions/ Reflections. Do at least two tests to be sure, if no previous general Brightness level to compare to is known, so you dont waste an important shot (that maybe cant be redone).
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#EDIT# forgot to put the Link and the Screenshot for the 200m SDI-Cable