So, the Interval between Two Saved Frames will stay the Same, no matter what Framerate you save it at (more on that later down this post).
Question is more, what you use to skip to the next frame, and if that software might have skipped a Frame, which could happen if Settings are wrong or the Software isnt very advanced.
.
Temperature and Runtime should not affect timing of the Camera by any kind of meaningful Amount that you would be able to notice at 24kfps.
As Reference, this site here:
https://www.electronicdesign.com/technologies/analog/article/21798809/minimize-frequency-drift-in-crystals Does Mention, Frequency Drift of Quartz Oscillators can drift up to 100 Parts Per Million from a Temperature Change from -40 to +85°C; which is a Very Substantial Change in Temperature.
In this assumed very Extreme Case, the Drift would mean a Difference of 2.4fps at a Framerate of 24046fps. Or in other words a 0,1% Change in Timing Intervals which include Frame Intervals and Exposure Times.
To counter this Effect of Temperature Drift on Very High Precision Electronics, that need Higher or Much Higher Accuracy than that and cant allow such Drift, the Quartz Crystal is usually Heated (because it is easier to keep it at a generally higher, but highly Stable Temperature than the Environment is expected to ever be, than to figure out how to Heat AND Cool it Reliably to then be within a very small Margin of Temperature), See Crystal Oven:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oven Given the Chronos is made to run at its warmed up Temperature, and it itself Generating quite some Amount of Heat, it kind of works as Sort of a Low-Effort Crystal Oven itself when it has Reached a Stable Operating Temperature after something like 30 to 60 Minutes Runtime. This is generally recommended Anyways, as a Stable Temperature generally means the Sensor Noise Pattern Will not Change, resulting in A image with Less Noise usually (if Black Calibration is done once warm).
So, if anything running the Camera for a while before Recording anything is a good thing. Should also be the most reliable way to get the Best timing Accuracy out of the Cameras Internal Timing.
If you need anything much more Precise than the 0,1% Accuracy that is to be expected of a Typical Quartz Crystal Oscillator, you very much probably want to Trigger the Camera with an External Signal Anyways, i assume.
.
As for "Max FPS":
You can very much run the Camera at a lower Resolution like 640 x 96 and run any Framerate down to 60fps, which is currently the Lowest officially Supported Framerate. You can Set lower FPS down to 1.0fps as an Experimental Setting, but it is not guaranteed to work properly or at all (it usually does not, but the Camera does allow you to do so anyways).
The "Max FPS" just Literally means, that this FPS most People would usually want to shoot at, is the Highest Possible for the respective Resolution Setting.
There are some Cases, where you would want Lower FPS or some very Specific FPS, like lets say exactly 24000fps, not 24046fps, so you could actually do that if you wanted to.
