Hi Samador,
This is going to be very difficult. I've taken many digital infra red photos with modified digital stills cameras, and the exposures are quite long using sunlight. I have a couple on my website here
https://www.colinpage.com/new-gallery-1/j13qximue0he5oiygan1pwifxdrmwkIf you want to see infra red and not visible light mixed (contaminated) with Infra red, you need to both remove the blocking filter from the sensor and block out all the visible light using a filter like the Hoya R72. Without this blocking filter you are getting a visible image with an annoying IR shift that screws up your colour, and sometimes slightly blurs the image because of the different focus position of IR light, and does not look like IR.
This Hoya website suggests that with the R72 filter you need roughly 10 stops of extra light when using sunlight as your source.
https://hoyafilter.com/reviews/infrared_photography_with_the_hoya_r72_filter/So, say you're using sunlight (an excellent flicker free IR light source) and shooting at 1000 frames per second. Normal exposure time is 1/2000th of a second.
My Chronos 2.1 looks good at f4 at 1/2000th in full sunlight.
If you shoot IR you need 10 stops more light, 1 stop is double the amount of light.
Normal exposure f4 at 1/2000 = 1 sun
1 stop = 2 suns
2 stops = 4 suns
3 stops = 8 suns
4 stops = 16 suns
5 stops = 32 suns
6 stops = 64 suns
7 stops = 128 suns
8 stops = 264 suns
9 stops = 512 suns
10 stops = 1024 suns
The godox will probably not work. I'm not sure if there's any light that will give you this much IR without melting the subject and the table it's sitting on.
You could shoot on a bright lens, say f1.4 that's 3 stops less light required.
You could use the gain setting on the camera for another 3 stops.
Now you need to find a light source that is only 16 times brighter than the sun. This may be possible, but it will still be incredibly hot. Maybe a good old fashioned Tungsten 5K fresnel at a distance of about 10cm?
Have you considered using flash? Some older studio flash gear produces surprisingly long flash durations. I had Bowens linear tubes in softboxes that were so slow that I could fine tune my exposure using shutter speeds. They produced an extremely bright light for approximately 1/100th of a second. That's 10 frames on the chronos.
I have tried this with my current flash gear, but it has a shorter duration and I only get 2 to 3 frames at most from the chronos.
Good luck with the project, I'd love to see what you're shooting and any results you get.
Cheers,
Col
